Disco Virgin...

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Forgot to ask. For peace of mind I was thinking of having the cambelt done, anyone know what sort of money a garage would charge for doing it?

I can do most stuff, but that's a bit beyond me with timing and cam positions and everything...:eek:


Rus.
 
Firstly if your going to own a Disco 1 and you want to actually have money at any point in your life you will need to buy a Haynes manual, keep your membership to this forum, learn basic landy maintainance/mechanics and ideally buy a welder and learn to weld. A huge amount of spare time, determination, patience and stubborness not to walk away from a job will also go a long way, you really have to be dedicated to own a Landy, they need more maintainance than a car and they tend to break, a lot.

Rust is a big problem on discos, the floor mainly but also the roof and chassis, usual places are the sills, boot floor, inner front wings, inner and outer rear wings, bulkhead, check the chassis, the rear cross member, pull the carpets up and check for wetness, feel the headliner to see if its damp. Also check the condition of the headlamp boxes and battery tray for tin worm.

Most of the seals can fail so check for leaks underneath and also check the sunroof and windows.

If the rover V8 has been looked after well and serviced regulary hopefully you should be ok, check its service history, also have a quick read through this it may help a little:

RPi Engineering - V8 Engines

With regards to making the experience more "fun" I find a good stainless exhaust system on a V8 brings a smile to my face every time.

Theres probably lots more that ive forgot (ive only just got up and not had my coffee yet!) but others will come along shortly and fill in the gaps.

In the mean time hope this helps.
 
Well I'm in trouble then...as far as I am aware there is no history with it! :confused:

And the drive back from Sheffield to the Cotswolds is 130 miles...that'll be about £80 in unleaded I rekon?

I'm kinda handy with a spanner, but on VW's 2.8VR6 so this will be a new experience. I can get my welder back off my mate and have a play but it isn't rotten yet and has just got it's MOT ticket so fingers crossed that will be ok!

My intention is only to do this year with it and then either sell it if it's still in ok shape, or break it as by that point I will have gained enough experience to splash out on a D90.

Right, eBay for a haynes then! :)
 
rusty7 said:
Forgot to ask. For peace of mind I was thinking of having the cambelt done, anyone know what sort of money a garage would charge for doing it?
Click to expand...

When you find the Cambelt on your V8, Give us a shout :D You might be there a while.... As it has a Timing Chain :)
 
I kinda hoped people had missed that...lol...found that out 5 minutes after I posted...was just trying to cover basis.

The 2.8 v6 I'm used to by VW has chains too, but they recommend their changed after 100k, same deal with these or do they go on for ever?

What's the crack with protecting the ignition system from water damage, I know I can snorkel the air, but get water in the sparky system and I'm guessing it's game over?
 
It's fuel consumption that's the killer....I've had 3 v'8s and it's the running costs that make them hard to keep on the road.
If there's any sign it uses water leave well alone
 
Thanks to Both the Mr Men! ;)

I'll check back through the threads. Sometimes the search works out for me, sometimes not...

Appreciate anything right now.
 
mr men haha, the funny thing is I used to be called mr noisy in my partying days as I could never get back into my house without waking everybody!

Dont use the Google search bar use the drop down search function diagnaly beneath and to the left of it.
 
Could you do me a favour and ask the original owner of that vehicle where the lights and the grille setup came from because I've been trying to investigate a reasonable driving light solution for my 200 tdi and am yet to see anything other than a 300 tdi chop job upgrade
 
dangerousbrain said:
Could you do me a favour and ask the original owner of that vehicle where the lights and the grille setup came from because I've been trying to investigate a reasonable driving light solution for my 200 tdi and am yet to see anything other than a 300 tdi chop job upgrade
Click to expand...

That's the RDX light conversion.

Very expensive and IMO looks a bit turdy. I'm eventually gone fit bowls and round lamps I think. They look mean with round lamps :)
 
rusty7 said:
I kinda hoped people had missed that...lol...found that out 5 minutes after I posted...was just trying to cover basis.

The 2.8 v6 I'm used to by VW has chains too, but they recommend their changed after 100k, same deal with these or do they go on for ever?

What's the crack with protecting the ignition system from water damage, I know I can snorkel the air, but get water in the sparky system and I'm guessing it's game over?
Click to expand...

Have you had a trawl through the V8 section of the forum? Loads of info in there.
 
classic kev said:
Have you had a trawl through the V8 section of the forum? Loads of info in there.
Click to expand...

Good call mate! Totally over looked that section and took me about 20 minutes to find it! :(

Things changed over the weekend and had to bin off the one above, but should be picking up a 3 door v8 disco in the next few days. This one's totally standard tough so will be having some fun tinkering with it.

Anyone got any suggestions?
 
rusty7 said:
Good call mate! Totally over looked that section and took me about 20 minutes to find it! :(

Things changed over the weekend and had to bin off the one above, but should be picking up a 3 door v8 disco in the next few days. This one's totally standard tough so will be having some fun tinkering with it.

Anyone got any suggestions?
Click to expand...

First job wheel bearings and brakes and props and swivel bearings and change all transmissions oils and Hub and Swivel seals.

Second job strip the top end of the motor down and dig out all the oily charcoal and clean out all the breathers and pipes, and go through the whole injection system to test all components and check MAF readings and fit new plugs and genuine cap and rotor arm and leads if you fancy it, change engine oil and filter twice after washing out the rockers and plenum with brake cleaner, use 20w50 mineral oil.

Give it a strip down inside, remove the underlay and address the body rot. Do not replace the carpets.

Remove the front arch liners and rear mudflap brackets, underseal where necessary.

Remove all stickers and trim and give the paint a damn could conditioning.


And then it should be half right :D
 
Holy Mackerel! What have I let myself in for?

I'm kinda handy with a spanner, but stripping the motor down is a) a little out my depth and b) a little more than I'd like to take on! :eek:

Apparently there's a whine from the box but I think I'm right in saying that's pretty normal? I intend to change all the fluids and will get the brakes props and bearings all looked at by a friend.

Me thinks I better find an appropriate copy of Haynes for my bedtime reading!

Thanks again Mr Noisy...I think! :doh:
 
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