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Fairly steady run of oil which appears underneath running down the side of the starter motor. Doesn't appear to be rocker cover.

Mine's been leaking since I rebuilt the engine, I was rushing to get it finished at the time. Anyway, finally got round to sorting it today so I've got the sump off and it's nice and clean but it's very difficult to slot it back without catching things on the way which could dislodge some...

So here's what happened. Car stood a while, disconnected the battery and gave it a charge. Reconnected the battery, drove car for 20 miles to pick up Mrs from work, everything fine. Pulled in to car park, stopped, put g'box in 'P'......car park space became available so put car in...

The UJ on my front prop was FUBAR, I've removed it expecting the new UJ's to arrive but they've not. I'm now unable to do anything on the car until the weekend and my wife needs to use it. She'll be driving less than 100 miles before I fix it, can it do any damage? Thanks.

I'm just replacing the UJ's and need to rotate the shaft (front). It mentions raising 1 road wheel in the manual but I'm clearly not understanding it fully. Can someone explain? Ta

I've searched the subject and not found anything solid...if you'll excuse the pun :-) Anyway, from what I can gather, a pressured top hose with a bit of give is OK and the pressure should go when the engine has cooled down. A solid top hose is bad. Does anyone have anything to add to this...

Bottom pipe on my radiator, it's like wet sand....... this is a s/h rad I bought, good job I didn't connect it and run my brand spanking new engine..........

Since I rebuilt the engine on my 4.0 P38, there was a leak on the rad. I picked a second hand one up this morning, and low and behold.....it's ****ing out. I feel that having done all the work I've done on the car, I know it inside out....certainly a simple radiator connection, but I'm...

I've just replaced my heater matrix, also took the speedo panel out to replace lamps. I probably stripped down more than I needed but I want to pressure the cooling system and make sure there are no leaks before I reasemble. I've reconnected the dashboard and all the other connections and...

I bought my P38 from the auctions...cheap...so I expected problems. It had an annoying top end tick so I knew a new cam etc was required but it soon became evident that the problem was more serious.....a cracked block...........there's always a reason why P38's are thrown through the...

I've snapped the bleed hose connector from the top of my rad (p38 4.0). Can I run the car or will is pee coolant? Ta

I ordered a new cam shaft from Island, my existing cam didn't have a colour mark on it to tell me whether it's a 4.0 or a 4.6. Island told me that they are both the same. I've fitted the new cam and I'm trying to sort the timing, I've aligned the marks as per the manual but the engine...

I've not seen this covered and wondered if anyone can see a problem doing this. As we all know, removing and re-fitting the drivers side manifold and heat shield is a right royal PITA, so I figured fitting them to the head first would be an easy option....... problem is, the manifold flanges...

Was just about to order my new cam, followers etc from Island, but I'm wondering if there's anyone local to me in Lanc's where I can collect? Anyone?

Productive day's work just wanted to share it with you all :-) It's been running only 1 danpower: Should be a little more powerful now though:

I'm ready to throw my new 4.0 block in. Looks like the easiest way is to leave the engine mounts off so there's less chance of snagging......good idea?...yes?...no? Plus, any other advice welcome. Ta oh...and the gearbox (auto) is still on the car)

where's the best place to get O ring seals and things like that for when I re-fit all my radiators etc? Ta

P38. 4L I marked it up as recommended but when I removed the block I noticed that the shaft isn't splined. Surely then, when I re-fit the motor, all I need to do is rotate the crank and the flywheel will slide round so I can feel when the bolt holes line up? Unless I'm missing...

what I need to undo to separate the block from the gearbox as I'm leaving that in-situ. I'd rather not go pulling and pushing until I know everything's undone.........I'm completely stripped down to the block and box so it should be straightforward

So both heads are off now and I'm struggling to find the problem. Thankfully I think I can discount a slipped liner, but I can't find any problems on the head gaskets. Cyliner #1 on the left bank appeard to have water in it. I can only think of a warped head which I'll have looked at this...