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Are you still trying to remove the flange plate (the item circle in blue in earlier posts) I used a cold chisel to remove that, it was heavily corroded. The steering relay itself came out after filling the hole with penetrating fluid for a few days then knocking the top left to right, left to...

Thanks for your advice. I'll let you know how I get on.

After months of putting this off, I've decided that I need a new chassis. The old one isn't worth plating again. Most of the strip down has gone OK. But as each bit comes off there seems to be more things to do. I think I'll be on this forum a lot over the next months/years. I got the...

Thanks everyone for your advice. I am not going to attempt this myself. I now have a tough choice to make - new chassis or profesional repair. Either way, I'm going to have to save up. Landrovers, don't you just love em.

Hi All. My '74 series 3 failed its MOT today - chassis corrosion. The main problems are: The front spring shackles. The areas under the front bump stops have holes in the rear chassis, near the spring hangers. Can someone give me some advice on how to go about fixing this? I've no experience...

Did you find out the cause of that deep humming? Very likely to be the Torque Converter - There's an awful lot on this forum about this very common problem

Hi Everyone. I've been absent from this forum since I sold my L322. Absent long enough to merit re-introducing myself. I'm still in East London, still a bit of a LR fan. I replaced the Range Rover with with a 1974 Series III. This is now the source of my problems. I'll post into the Series...

Hi All I just can't resist the pull of the Land Rover. I'm back on the forum,having sold my L322 last year I've gone and bought a series 3 and, just recently a discovery4. It feels good to be back Cheers all, John

I like Brownchurch in Leyton. No nonsense and more reasonable than a main dealer. Sounds not to bad to strip down the block.

Diesel or petrol? What year?

I sold my L322. Too much came along too fast - gearbox, suspension, brake discs, tracking, oil leaks. I haven't got the skills to do all this, nor the funds to be honest, so it had to go. I'll get another RR though. So long for now, and best of luck with your Rangies.

Yep. In my garage. Dead flat.

Thanks Saint. That's my point really. I'm not getting anywhere near 6 litres out. Has anyone managed to get more than 4.25~4.50 out.

Followed Saint's how-to. Cycle through PRND slowly until it trickles out the fill hole. Check temp is between 30 and 40"C Oh - engine running

Hi All 2004 V8 4.4 M62 Range Rover Vogue - 120,000 miles. I changed the oil and filter about 4,000 miles ago and, like Saint in his how-to guide, only got 4.25 litres out of the sump. This week I've just started to get the dreaded torque converter lock-up clutch buzz. So today I changed...

P.S. What's your mileage?

So a CAN bus timeout. As a first guess, check the connector to the gearbox is secure, and as with all RAnge Rover faults, check your battery and alternator output is OK.

Or this from range rovers.net - I think the transmission lock is a General Motors code. P1843 (17) * CAN time-out monitoring Maintains current gear in low range, limp home mode in high range. Shift pressure to maximum, harsh gear shifts/engagement. On On

Yep. The clunky font and the fact that the On-Road Nav is not showing up as an option on the main menu suggests a problem with the unit. Given you said this has happened occasionally with your Mk 3 unit makes me think its likely to be water ingress. The water can drip into the bottom of the...

Check for signs of water getting into the unit. This doesn't always show as corroded pins.