Rangie romped the MOT except...

The pedal started not returning to the full up position.

Bloody emissions through the roof.

lorri789 said:

The pedal started not returning to the full up position.

Bloody emissions through the roof.

Click to expand...

What were the emission test results? You might sort it by checking and testing the MAF, in the alternative, if you have cats, it could be the O2 sensors are dead or dying.

What emissions? Hydrocarbons? CO2? Why do people expect people on here to be able to mind-read?

And what pedal? Throttle? Brake? Non returning brake pedal is often caused by the lip on the seal in the master cylinder flipping over with wear.

My wotsit has broken and it won't thingymajig - can you help me? :censored:

rant over.

StuckAgainSteve said:

What emissions? Hydrocarbons? CO2? Why do people expect people on here to be able to mind-read?
rant over.

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'Oh good, strange attitude from someone seeking help. If anyone asked me for the emmission 'readings' I'd give them both as the more info. the better. Have I missed something or did you say what engine you had?

Dirty air fliter could cause some of it

Sorry. I was just miffed and was reading all the emissions posts on the forum then something came up.

Co2 they said on the phone it was through the roof! I haven't a printout...is that protocol? They didn't complete the rest of the emissions.

My RR is pre cat and had a new filters and oil. Can this be coolant temp sender? Fuel temp sender? I did notice today that when I started her she died a couple of times until revved

The plugs look fairly clean, but I ordered a news set anyway. Ignition timing? Dizzy need reset? Plenum looks mucky, though.

Any help would be good.

The

As its not fly-by-wire the only result of an accelerator pedal not fully returning is that the revs are going to be high as the throttle butterfly won't return to the closed position & possibly outside the range that is required during the emissions part of the test. Bear in mind that the revs have to be raised to be within a set range during these test.
Without a printout of what the readings actually were you've no idea of what the problem actually is. If the test was carried out then there should be a printout of the readings recorded even when its a fail. So doesn't really make a lot of sense.

I'll phone the garage on monday about the paper readings. I sorted the pedal thing anyway.

I'm working my way through the high CO possibilities, but it's not familiar territory for me.

lorri789 said:

My RR is pre cat and had a new filters and oil. Can this be coolant temp sender? Fuel temp sender? I did notice today that when I started her she died a couple of times until revved

Any help would be good.

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Is yours hot wire or flapper?

If hotwire, check the CO trim on your MAF.

Hi

I'm hot Wire. I'm trying to read up on the adjustments but seem to get different info.
I take it's the hex thingy on the back of the maf. Should there be a stopper on the end of it? Mine hasn't, so if it should have, someone might have fiddled with mine.

lorri789 said:

Hi
I take it's the hex thingy on the back of the maf. Should there be a stopper on the end of it? Mine hasn't, so if it should have, someone might have fiddled with mine.

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I assume then that this is the first mot in your ownership, always a problem as you don't know what the previous owner/plonker has done to it. Yes there would have been a seal but, like every RR I've ever owned (four), long since removed. Sorry I can't help as all mine have been the earlier 'flapper' MAF.

lorri789 said:

Hi

I'm hot Wire. I'm trying to read up on the adjustments but seem to get different info.
I take it's the hex thingy on the back of the maf. Should there be a stopper on the end of it? Mine hasn't, so if it should have, someone might have fiddled with mine.

Click to expand...

1: The hex thingy is the CO trim.
2: Yes, there would have originally been an anti-tamper plug (don't worry if it isn't there)
3:Yes it's probably been fiddled with.

As far as setting it goes, the best way is with a gas analyser but if you do a search in the V8 section, look for CO Trim I'm fairly sure I have posted how to set it (roughly) using a volt meter. You should be looking for something like 1.0v -1.50v at idle measured between sensor ground and CO trim. You can also measure air flow between sensor ground and air flow signal.

The wires in to the AFM are (should be?):
Red/black = sensor ground
Blue/green = air flow signal
Brown/orange = ign live (+12v)
Blue/red = CO trim

The engine should be putting out 1.0% CO at idle.

Great. thanks for the help Kev