Your expert opinions on my rust please!

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It always looks really bad until the rusty bits are cut out. Once the new metal is placed over the holes it will look okay. Dont be intimidated by a bit rust.
 
Sean said:
even for someone using a wood chisel on metal ?
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What would you use to tap rust out with? I wouldn't of thought it mattered if I used a tea spoon.......rusty metal doesn't have too many feelings or much preference what hits it out. :doh:
 
GreenHornet said:
That's not too bad at all.

All panels are readily available and the odd small hole is easily plated. A couple of weekends and you'll be done.
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Where did you use to get your panels from? Yrm? I'm going to strip the other side soon and see how that looks. My plan is to sort these bits out then the sills, put it back together then start replacing the front panels. Not going to be a 10 minute job but should be worth it by the time it's finished.
 
duker996 said:
Where did you use to get your panels from? Yrm? I'm going to strip the other side soon and see how that looks. My plan is to sort these bits out then the sills, put it back together then start replacing the front panels. Not going to be a 10 minute job but should be worth it by the time it's finished.
Click to expand...

Sounds familiar lol.

I used YRM. The panels are 1.6mm and the fit was spot on. I used a spare boot side panel for all my patch work. I had loads to do.

The rear seatbelt plates you can also get but yours looks like it just needs new plate around them. I would suggest here that you cut the existing plates out. Weld in a complete patche panel and then weld in the seat belt bracket panel. Seam weld all round.

You like panels are easy too, however if yours is a 200 like mine, then I could only get hold of the 300 front panels. With cutting for the light fittings you can keep you 200 lights tho if you want too. I upgraded.

I hadn't really welded vehicles before. I was used to heavy metal work. I used a small 150 mig and it all worked well.

Best advice is always go back to good clean metal no matter where it takes you and for £30 get a self darkening helmet. There is nothing better than being able to adjust your panels whilst not messing around tipping your helmet etc.
 
GreenHornet said:
Sounds familiar lol.

I used YRM. The panels are 1.6mm and the fit was spot on. I used a spare boot side panel for all my patch work. I had loads to do.

The rear seatbelt plates you can also get but yours looks like it just needs new plate around them. I would suggest here that you cut the existing plates out. Weld in a complete patche panel and then weld in the seat belt bracket panel. Seam weld all round.

You like panels are easy too, however if yours is a 200 like mine, then I could only get hold of the 300 front panels. With cutting for the light fittings you can keep you 200 lights tho if you want too. I upgraded.

I hadn't really welded vehicles before. I was used to heavy metal work. I used a small 150 mig and it all worked well.

Best advice is always go back to good clean metal no matter where it takes you and for £30 get a self darkening helmet. There is nothing better than being able to adjust your panels whilst not messing around tipping your helmet etc.
Click to expand...

I've been looking on yrm but cant seem to find the rear wheel arch panels or the seat belt plates on there. I have seen the 200tdi light parts on yrm, I'd like the 300tdi lights but then it's just another expense. I've also seen kits on ebay by "easy on" which look quite good but there £400 for most the front end.

I will be buying one of those automatic darkening helmets when I buy my welder!! I know a bloke who owns a fabrication firm and he's willing to teach me to weld. I'm a plumber and lead welding is the same sort of principle so I should pick it u pretty quick. I feel like I'm throwing myself in at the deep end but what better way! And if it all goes wrong I can cut it out and start again!
 
I prefer the old front end but 300 lights are just soo much better. After all the old 200 lights are from a Sherpa van.

I brought both new lights and indicators and secondhand grill and trims all off eBay for around £80. I must say that I am happier with the new front end.

I am sure that they do seat belt plates etc. also if you buy all the panels individually they are the me price as built up units so you may as well just by what you need. For instance I just brought the inner arch panels and not the whole inner arch that goes around the turret and nor did I get the battery try either. It all fitted well.
 
I'm reading as many of these rust woe threads as I can. I know my 5dr 300V8 has a holed boot floor, the panel to the rear of it is shot and both rear arches are holed where the steel door latch structure meets it. The nearside front wing and wheelarch aren't too clever and the bottom of the b pillars where they meet the sills aren't there anymore. Surprisingly the chassis appears to be in A1 condition but then the previous owner had it undersealed every year from new. Despite being a mechanic, I can't weld so have booked myself on a course at the local college to hopefully learn and gain a qualification.
At some point i will go to the lengths Mr Noisy has and remove the entire rear bodypanel set ( how do you do that by the way?)
When I do get round to plating her up I'd jump at the chance to have a volunteer who's done it before to guide me....
 
Ste, your plan sounds good. College course is very conscientious of you, although tbh its not really necessary! I'm not an expert by any means, but got the Haynes welding manual, cover to covered it on sat night and Sunday morning, then went to the garage Sunday lunch and started to practice on scrap. After an hour I was happy to start on the car!

The welding course will be great, especially if it gives you a qualification that you can use for your day job.

The rear quarter panels are very awkward but very easy to remove. They are simply bolted, screwed and stuck on. Bolts easy, screws difficult to find, adhesive an absolute cock **** bollocks ****! to remove :)

Strip interior trim out and seats, push out the glass, remove the C pillar trim which is 3 tiny nuts inside the pillar, find all the main bolts, find all the main screws including the ones near the tailgate for the corner panels, then set about cutting through the sealant and seam sealer with a hot knife/heat gun. Panel is sealed along the top edge under the gutter with beige seam sealer. This **** is the worst!

Otherwise it's up the rear of the glass vertical, along the bottom of the glass horizontal and up the rear of the side door vertical. This is the black stuff which is easier.

That's pretty much it, it'll pull right off. Then you can get a blow lamp and burn/scrape the residue off and nearly set the car on fire. I did.

Once they're off you get to look at the rusty rear end proper. It's worse than you thought but you can make a better job far more easily now.

Sweet.

I've posted this before but it's an amazing set of pics from John on Disco Owners:

https://picasaweb.google.com/117840...authkey=Gv1sRgCLeUoKqc0rD3nwE&feat=directlink

Cheers :)
 
Last edited:
sidewaysste said:
I'm reading as many of these rust woe threads as I can. I know my 5dr 300V8 has a holed boot floor, the panel to the rear of it is shot and both rear arches are holed where the steel door latch structure meets it. The nearside front wing and wheelarch aren't too clever and the bottom of the b pillars where they meet the sills aren't there anymore. Surprisingly the chassis appears to be in A1 condition but then the previous owner had it undersealed every year from new. Despite being a mechanic, I can't weld so have booked myself on a course at the local college to hopefully learn and gain a qualification.
At some point i will go to the lengths Mr Noisy has and remove the entire rear bodypanel set ( how do you do that by the way?)
When I do get round to plating her up I'd jump at the chance to have a volunteer who's done it before to guide me....
Click to expand...

I've been doing exactly the same, reading lots to pluck up the courage to tackle my own. I find my landy gives me a sense of security in winter so I don't really want to put it off the road. That's why I'm doing it in stages and leaving the bits that make it off the road until spring! I think my wings are in a bad way too but they'll be the last bits I tackle MrNoisy's and green hornetts threads are great inspiration though. Also the link MrNoisy posted on green hornetts thread is good inspiration too, on page 2 or 3 I think.

I'd love a volunteer too but all I got was my 2 labs!!
 
Mr Noisy said:
Ste, your plan sounds good. College course is very conscientious of you, although tbh its not really necessary! I'm not an expert by any means, but got the Haynes welding manual, cover to covered it on sat night and Sunday morning, then went to the garage Sunday lunch and started to practice on scrap. After an hour I was happy to start on the car!

The welding course will be great, especially if it gives you a qualification that you can use for your day job.

The rear quarter panels are very awkward but very easy to remove. They are simply bolted, screwed and stuck on. Bolts easy, screws difficult to find, adhesive an absolute cock **** bollocks ****! to remove :)

Strip interior trim out and seats, push out the glass, remove the C pillar trim which is 3 tiny nuts inside the pillar, find all the main bolts, find all the main screws including the ones near the tailgate for the corner panels, then set about cutting through the sealant and seam sealer with a hot knife/heat gun. Panel is sealed along the top edge under the gutter with beige seam sealer. This **** is the worst!

Otherwise it's up the rear of the glass vertical, along the bottom of the glass horizontal and up the rear of the side door vertical. This is the black stuff which is easier.

That's pretty much it, it'll pull right off. Then you can get a blow lamp and burn/scrape the residue off and nearly set the car on fire. I did.

Once they're off you get to look at the rusty rear end proper. It's worse than you thought but you can make a better job far more easily now.

Sweet.

I've posted this before but it's an amazing set of pics from John on Disco Owners:

https://picasaweb.google.com/117840...authkey=Gv1sRgCLeUoKqc0rD3nwE&feat=directlink

Cheers :)
Click to expand...

That's the link MrNoisy! Can you remove the rear corner panel on it's own without removing the side panel with the glass in? I found the 6 screws by the rear door but couldn't see how it fixed to the next panel?:confused:
 
duker996 said:
That's the link MrNoisy! Can you remove the rear corner panel on it's own without removing the side panel with the glass in? I found the 6 screws by the rear door but couldn't see how it fixed to the next panel?:confused:
Click to expand...


It's spot welded to the rear side panel. A recip saw or thin cold chisel will split em but it makes a mess. to remove in it's entirety requires the removal of All the interior panels. then several nuts/bolts/screws. and finally a long thin blade (Hacksaw blade ground sharp on a grinder works) to cut thru the Body/panel sealant that holds panel to body shell.
 
duker996 said:
I've been doing exactly the same, reading lots to pluck up the courage to tackle my own. I find my landy gives me a sense of security in winter so I don't really want to put it off the road. That's why I'm doing it in stages and leaving the bits that make it off the road until spring! I think my wings are in a bad way too but they'll be the last bits I tackle MrNoisy's and green hornetts threads are great inspiration though. Also the link MrNoisy posted on green hornetts thread is good inspiration too, on page 2 or 3 I think.

I'd love a volunteer too but all I got was my 2 labs!!
Click to expand...
As others have told me, pop your location up - that way friendly volunteer types can come help!
 
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