Your expert opinions on my rust please!

I removed the rear carpet and sound proofing today to see how it looked underneath. What is your opinion on what i found. Would you class it as bad or just needs a few plates patching here and there. I'm still relatively inexperienced with this rust malarkey, hence why I'm asking advice!

I'm guessing by the pics with the chisel in that the floor has been replaced at some point. It looks like its spot welded then sealed. Its very flimsy and easy to prize up in many places.











This one was after gently tapping with the chisel

mmmmm really poor work there. if it were mine, i would rip it out and start again. but thats easy for me to say, as panel work is my job.

Yup! 200tdi disease!

Well mate, it looks bad but not necessarily awful!

You're going to have to take out: dicky seats, rear seats, side trims, wheel arch carpets, rear seat backrest mounts and then have a good poke about and see what's what.

Be ready for:



Uh ohhhhh!

if your landys worth saving , then do it right.

I've seen worse but as spin says, rip it out and start again. Main floor is cheap as chips, side parts that go round the arches are a bit of the expensive side for what they are. I cut my own from some 14g plate. Chances are the supports under the floor are buggered too so its best to remove everything and replace them first. 8 bolts will remove the rear seats, bolts on dickie seats are a swine to get at, but if you ain't gunna use them just leave them out.

Every thing can be repaired replaced just comes down to time and money do holes first, rusty metal coat up till you get round to replacing.Like last comment depends on how much you want to keep the car!how much time you have?how much you want to spend?

looks like some clown bought himself a welder and thought he could use it, as a matter of fact it don't look too bad at least the floor won't take much chisseling to get it out. on our old 200tdi we had a few years ago replaced the floor with a large sheet of ally ( made from a road sighn) dad worked for the council lol, and after repairing the lip just bolted it in . the chap who bought it off us still runs it 4 years later.but i would certainly take that out and start again, good luck.. ron

Mr Noisy said:

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this is the way forward without doubt.

That's that sorted then.......it's coming out! I thought it looked a bodge job and obviously was! Moneys a lil tight at the moment but time isn't too much of an issue......just don't tell the missus i said that :behindsofa:

I do like your floor MrNoisy but would it make it difficult if I was putting the rear seats and belts back in? Also what is the black you painted on yours afer sorting the rust out, primer, rust prevention or just paint?

Hi mate

All you need to do for the rear belts is drill two holes and refit the brackets, no sweat.

MUCH better floor than standard, stronger and lighter. That piece cost me £50, so cheaper too usually.

The black stuff is Schutz, or 'underseal' as it is sometimes known.

I find the 3M '8861' body Schutz is better than the cheaper Tetrosyl etc, but even then it's only about £4.50 for a litre. You'll need about 2ltr to do the whole rear end in&out.

Cheers!

the only problem with them things is ther made of steel, the rot away quicker than a mk1 fiesta the downfall of landrover,
id just weigh it in ,
gerra defender, yerl never have the body rot again , mines still sound after 25 years , chassis and body

Body rot is a joke on Discoveries.

You can't buy a Defender though without checking the chassis!!

Mr Noisy said:

Body rot is a joke on Discoveries.

You can't buy a Defender though without checking the chassis!!

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Or remortgaging your house!

still be easy to put your belts back in . also get yourself some wurth rust stop primer, its mint stuff, we use it at work we restore e type jags . we have left stuff outside coated in it for months and it never rusts. just make sure everything is clean and dry b4 coating. you should be able to get it of the wurth website.

Oh yeah was gonna say, the Schutz is cheap and cheerful but it's not a rust stopper, just a thick coating. A chemical rust stopper like the Wurth is the ****, but probably more expensive.

There some other gear called POR15 I believe. You gets what you pays for

Mr Noisy said:

Hi mate

All you need to do for the rear belts is drill two holes and refit the brackets, no sweat.

MUCH better floor than standard, stronger and lighter. That piece cost me £50, so cheaper too usually.

The black stuff is Schutz, or 'underseal' as it is sometimes known.

I find the 3M '8861' body Schutz is better than the cheaper Tetrosyl etc, but even then it's only about £4.50 for a litre. You'll need about 2ltr to do the whole rear end in&out.

Cheers!

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How do you fix this down? Lots of silicone and rivets? Also I'm thinking of putting the carpet back in, although I know it's not the cleverest idea!

Yep, sealant then rivets, or screws.

Carpets ok, but ditch the rubber sound deadening matting from everywhere in your car, it will be sodden in the front aswell no doubt!

1spin said:

still be easy to put your belts back in . also get yourself some wurth rust stop primer, its mint stuff, we use it at work we restore e type jags . we have left stuff outside coated in it for months and it never rusts. just make sure everything is clean and dry b4 coating. you should be able to get it of the wurth website.

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Thanks matey, I was thinking of using red oxide primer but I imagine something like Wurth will be a lot better?

Mr Noisy said:

Oh yeah was gonna say, the Schutz is cheap and cheerful but it's not a rust stopper, just a thick coating. A chemical rust stopper like the Wurth is the ****, but probably more expensive.

There some other gear called POR15 I believe. You gets what you pays for

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the wurth aint a chemical rust stopper , your thinking along the lines of curerust and the like.