wvo dual tank setup

Right, as well as running bio derv, i also want to run my 200tdi on straight chipshop fat as i just got another source of oil and it seems quite happy to remain liquid in the colder temps (unlike the stuff i use for bio)

so i am filtering the oil down to 1 micron - to make it sqeaky clean! (yes i know that the fuel filter only filters to 5-7 microns)

I want a twin tank setup - basically a big 100-120 ltr one on the one side - but not too far over! & a 60 ltr water tank on the opposite side. I will retain the standard fuel tank for using bio diesel with (for starting and stopping) and the new ancillery tank for the WVO. With this i want to have a long range vehicle so I can go on holiday etc without worrying about having to fill up on dino juice.

also need to slip in a couple of gas bottles somewhere :ballchain: all this kit for the sodding sankey trailer kitchen!

There has been a couple of threads on this over the years but does anyone have anything similar? I know there is the option of putting the 90 tank under the seat etc... but just dont want to do that as its not big enough and im too fussy.

Also what seems to be the method of choice at the minute, 2 3 port solenoids or a single 6 port actuator? Any examples of a simple home made heat exchanger for whacking into the wvo tank? have a few ideas but just wondering if someone had a really nice neat solution.

Work on project wombraider has recommenced at last!

why not just take spare fuel in trailer ? . plus have you thought out the wieght of 100+ ltr tank

Could you run the WVO through an omega/BMW heated filter housing? by the time you switch over it should be warm and already returning warm oil to the tank.

uncle albert said:

why not just take spare fuel in trailer ? . plus have you thought out the wieght of 100+ ltr tank

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because i need it to be heated to roughly 80 degrees celsius. And i dont always want to have the trailer with me, and if i am on a long run (800 miles+) i dont want to stop if i can avoid it. stopping wastes time.

Regarding the weight eerr yes! just less than a 100 kilos for 100 ltrs of oil. plus 10 -15 kilos for the tank itself. Not alot really. especially as its carried relatively low down.

livers said:

Could you run the WVO through an omega/BMW heated filter housing? by the time you switch over it should be warm and already returning warm oil to the tank.

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gonna run it through one of these eckes heated oil filter housing conversions that are very popular. Thats just before it gets injected.

But i need a heat exchanged to physically go inside the WVO ancillary tank, to get that warm before i start pumping it. In the real cold it might go quite viscous and damage the pump. The heat exchanged will get the oil in the tank warm before trying to pump it.

Cotemplating making it a secondary heating system, so run the coolant through a plate type heat exchanger, to heat some sort of mineral oil, which will then be circulated through the wvo tank via its own electric pump. If something were to fail i dont want to fill up the fuel tank with glycol! Also thinking of fitting a backup electrical coolant pump to the main coolant lines with a non return valve as a backup against water pump failure.

fair enough good luck with it , you must have arse of steel to do 800 m plus in a 110 and not need time to recover

1500 miles with only stopping for petrol on a zx6r across europe because we messed up the dates of the ferry crossing we had booked ... good practice! Longest trip i have done in the 110 so far is 900 miles with just stopping for fuel and back on the road again. I was a bit fooked afterward!

The long range fuel tank also means not having to fill up at the petrol station - so my fuel will only ever cost what the oil costs me. When going on holiday etc it makes things convinient.

I see were you`re coming from ,but there was question on ere last week about some mods taking more time and money than they were worth.

I do enough miles to warrant running on WVO. especially when it costs so little.

I am going to run the little mercedes we have bought on bio - 45p a ltr - so equivalent of 150 mpg

110, shogun sport and l200 on WVO. The 110 is going to be the experimental vehicle as its so simple to work on.

The 110 is also the vehicle i will be using for my catering business. And all the products i develop for the 110 i am starting to put together for my landy business.

filtering to 1 micron the 200 lump will run it fine apart from minus 0 temps

i know it will, i have been running it on SVO for a while now, but i dont want to have issues when its cold. I dont want to be adding petrol or other additives. They cost money. Adding 10% petrol effectively adds 13 p per ltr to my fuel costs. And some kinds of WVO will not be very good at all in the cold and adding petrol etc will not improve that. So heating it is the only solution.

Also this is the experiment vehicle, although i run the l200 and shogun on about 50% bio & 50% svo at the minute, i want them to just run on wvo at the same time. Less hassle and less mess.

vilguy said:

i know it will, i have been running it on SVO for a while now, but i dont want to have issues when its cold. I dont want to be adding petrol or other additives. They cost money. Adding 10% petrol effectively adds 13 p per ltr to my fuel costs. And some kinds of WVO will not be very good at all in the cold and adding petrol etc will not improve that. So heating it is the only solution.

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know all that , I run it 95 % of time on veg oil only mix bit of derv when temp. plumets . if you do it dont forget piccys

Will do, main issue is i have not fabricated a fuel tank before, and dont really fancy all the messing around. I would much rather use an off the shelf tank (or tanks)

I like the idea of the moulded plastic ones but the polypropelene will lose 90% of its rigidity at that temperature.

try the marine shops for boat tanks. Or ebay for used marine tanks.

yeah its just the heat thats the issue mate. An aluminium or Stainless tank is the "proper" way to go, but either is alot of work. Ive been looking at various Rallye car and kit car tanks which offer a good solution. But they are never in the right shape haha.

could you convert an lpg tank some how? im also interested in this as i want a twin setup on my disco 300tdi not really started looking into it yet

lpg tank is the wrong shape really matey. Very innificient use of space for fuel storage really. Their shape is determined by the pressure requirements. For a WVO tank a box is the most efficient use of the shape, with baffles and sump to ensure consistent fuel supply.

Tig weld a new one together, I'm having to do the same on the series cos I need a high pressure tank

Tig welding a steel tank together, epoxy outer coating and also gotta build a swirl pot into it. Gonna test it after welding by filling with water and adding some pressure

is tig welding better than mig for tanks then?

Its more a case of whatever you prefer, Tig will give a nicer weld though if you're good at it