sierrafery
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Hi all. How big of a job is to remove the fuel tank? can i have any complications if i'll try to remove it? In RAVE the procedure is too cryptic for me
Disco 2 Fuel tank removal
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1988smithy
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Seem to remember this chap doing it to access rear chassis. Cant remember which vid so heres the playlist. Not saying its a how to but might give a few pointers.
When I changed my D2 fuel pump many years ago, I accessed it from the boot, stripped the interior back.
What you need to drop the tank for mate?
Cant be much more than undo cradle, lower slightly and support while you disconnect fuel lines at the pump and filler neck/breather etc. Then should be pretty much there
When I changed my D2 fuel pump many years ago, I accessed it from the boot, stripped the interior back.
What you need to drop the tank for mate?
Cant be much more than undo cradle, lower slightly and support while you disconnect fuel lines at the pump and filler neck/breather etc. Then should be pretty much there
sierrafery
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Hi, thanks for the prompt reply, the pump is not a problem for me, i can teplace it in no time, i want to remove the tank to clean it well inside cos when i replaced the pump i didnt like what i saw inside it at the bottom, i also have a good friend who has a LR scrapyard so i can get a nice clean one and just swap it... i have a "canal" in my garage (or what's the correct english name for this ?)
PopPops
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“A pit” generally. I wish I had your garage…..
sierrafery
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thanks... i've learnt something
Make sure it's empty! All connections are disconnected?
Ensure you have some straps underneath the tank!
I connected 2 ratchet straps on either side of the roof gullies!
Both straps were fed through one of those 'Bags for Life' to go under the the tank/guard
Ratchet the straps so they are holding the tank/guard
When all connections are free! Slowly release to ground!
And the reverse to get the tank/guard back in place.
For me! The tank was not that heavy! No damage to the roof gullies!
Kev
Ensure you have some straps underneath the tank!
I connected 2 ratchet straps on either side of the roof gullies!
Both straps were fed through one of those 'Bags for Life' to go under the the tank/guard
Ratchet the straps so they are holding the tank/guard
When all connections are free! Slowly release to ground!
And the reverse to get the tank/guard back in place.
For me! The tank was not that heavy! No damage to the roof gullies!
Kev
sierrafery
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Thanks, doesnt seem so hard
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The guy who welded up my rear chassis had to take the tank out. He told me that he struggled and it took him longer than he expected. I think he simply had trouble undoing the bolts. And he is a pro indie LR mechanic.
So, it would be sensible to ensure they are free before committing to the removal.
Once out is there any welding you will be doing, to the bits you cannot see with the tank in? It really would be a good opportunity to do it.
And I too wish I had your garage!!
Best of luck mate!
So, it would be sensible to ensure they are free before committing to the removal.
Once out is there any welding you will be doing, to the bits you cannot see with the tank in? It really would be a good opportunity to do it.
And I too wish I had your garage!!
Best of luck mate!
1988smithy
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As @Stanleysteamer mentions, the bolts are probably going to be your biggest pain in the posterior 
seem to be made of cheese on D2s.
@Badger688 that's ingenious with the straps
seem to be made of cheese on D2s. @Badger688 that's ingenious with the straps
My working life is working with ropes? And solving problems is part and parcel of that jobAs @Stanleysteamer mentions, the bolts are probably going to be your biggest pain in the posterior
@Badger688 that's ingenious with the straps
Kev
sierrafery
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I have a gearbox trolley addapted to the pit if needed but i'll ask my son to help so i might not need ropes if 4 hands are involved
That works tooI have a gearbox trolley addapted to the pit if needed but i'll ask my son to help so i might not need ropes if 4 hands are involved
I did not have a pit or ramp? Dropped on the ground and pulled away!
Kev
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The edges of your pit appear not to have lips so that you could securely put thick pieces of timber or something in them to securely cover it and also to allow you to use a normal jack to lower or raise things.I have a gearbox trolley addapted to the pit if needed but i'll ask my son to help so i might not need ropes if 4 hands are involved
Maybe you could in future fabricate something to do these jobs as it certainly can make things easier. Or have you already done so?
The pit I worked most in had them and it meant you could cover the entire pit when not in use and drive a car onto it in total safety.
Just a thought for anyone building one, if I could I would! (The water table is about 6 inches below the float that the garage and indeed the house is built on. )
frostythor
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When i took mine out to weld in a new back end chassis, I tipped it it on it side to away from the filler , the biggest problem I had was removing the hoses on the filler side , breather and the 3rd hose as it has one of thoses clips that need to be squezzed, same putting it back on the hose took time to do
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1988smithy
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Sika 1 waterproofing system, 3 coat renderJust a thought for anyone building one, if I could I would! (The water table is about 6 inches below the float that the garage and indeed the house is built on. )
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Sounds very heavy work, in the end, if I win the lottery, I'll move somewhere where I can keep a load of vehicles in a safe, warm and secure barn and then fit lifts, 4 post and two post!!Sika 1 waterproofing system, 3 coat render
sierrafery
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That's not my pit in the pic, i found a picture on the web with something similar to find out the correct english term for it, mine has iron angle bars inserted all around but didnt take a pic cos my trailer full of junk is on it and the summer tyres of my son in it right now
frostythor
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my biggest problem was I had a full tank, hence tipping it over and siphoning out all the diesel, plus I had to find something to put it all in , my local garage very kindle gave me a new empty 200 ltrs oil drum,
sierrafery
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For me is not very urgent so i'll drive it until the light comes on before starting the job
I have also removed mine when I cleaned and protected the chassis. If it is empty not a big deal to remove it, I also used gearbox trolley to slowly let it down to the floor (but when it is fully empty it is not heavy . I remember also that the release of hoses on filler side made me some headache. But even your fuel light is on there still can be 10-20l of fuel in the tank which makes it heavy, so I used a hose to fully empty it.
