wish I never bought a freelander.

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DD3 said:
What do you mean, mine is WONDERFUL!!!:D

Well not really but I have to drive about in it anyway, cos the wife has the other car.

Now, something wise Nodge said caught my ear. What would be the effect of removing our PRT from the circuit altogether, so no thermostat. It might take a while to warm up but no thermal shocks - my thermals are shocking!!:)
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Removing the thermostat altogether is a poor strategy - you will have no regulation and massive overcooling at any speed which could result in carbon build up in the block which could really fook ya. The PRT is a very good solution, the only thing that it cannot address is shutdown heat-soak, which is why I fitted the EWP as that deals with it extremely effectively. However we're not sur just how big of a problem heat soak is compared to **** dowels, crap castings and chocolate head gaskets.

Seems to me that most who buy the 1.8 can't get the cash together to have all the mods done. Piece of **** DIY job and the parts are no costly either.
 
WLJayne said:
Removing the thermostat altogether is a poor strategy - you will have no regulation and massive overcooling at any speed which could result in carbon build up in the block which could really fook ya. The PRT is a very good solution, the only thing that it cannot address is shutdown heat-soak, which is why I fitted the EWP as that deals with it extremely effectively. However we're not sur just how big of a problem heat soak is compared to **** dowels, crap castings and chocolate head gaskets.

Seems to me that most who buy the 1.8 can't get the cash together to have all the mods done. Piece of **** DIY job and the parts are no costly either.
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God darn it! Thought I'd cracked HGF in the K series. If mine blows its stack, I'll treat it to the full monty. I don't know what's been done to it b4 my ownership 50k ago. :smokin:
 
DD3 said:
God darn it! Thought I'd cracked HGF in the K series. If mine blows its stack, I'll treat it to the full monty. I don't know what's been done to it b4 my ownership 50k ago. :smokin:
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It not only comes down to what is in there but how it was put in - bad installation will almost certainly mean another HGF. The only way to be sure is to do it yourself with the best materials you can get. The bastards used bathroom sealant on the rocker cover before I got it FFS!!!

Also things like not giving it the beans until it's fully warm will help. I can mone under 3k revs until it's proper warmed up.
 
DD3 said:
God darn it! Thought I'd cracked HGF in the K series. If mine blows its stack, I'll treat it to the full monty. I don't know what's been done to it b4 my ownership 50k ago. :smokin:
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No you can't take the stat out as Will said. The cooling system on the 1.8 is the same as that fitted to the V6 Freelander!! The V6 rad cools the engine, engine oil cooler, the auto gearbox fluid cooler and IRD. So simply removing the stat from the 1.8 would just over cool the engine. But worse than that the engine temp would fluctuate wildly as the car was driven in various conditions, this would allow the engine to expand and contract more often which would result in HGF!! The best cure is to use all the uprated components and a PRT.
 
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WLJayne said:
I second this, the EWP is an experiement not a necessity - if it's done properly with the right bits you should be fine.
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No revelations from me on this issue then! I do tend to let mine run for a few mins from cold prior to take off and I don't rev it hard prior to warm up - actually rarely rev it over about 4 and a bit k. :tea:
 
DD3 said:
No revelations from me on this issue then! I do tend to let mine run for a few mins from cold prior to take off and I don't rev it hard prior to warm up - actually rarely rev it over about 4 and a bit k. :tea:
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The PRT actually works on water pressure which requires the engine to rev!! As the revs climb it bleeds water from the rad into the engine which slows down the warming process and thermal shock which is the reason it helps prevent HGF!!
 
Nodge68 said:
The PRT actually works on water pressure which requires the engine to rev!! As the revs climb it bleeds water from the rad into the engine which slows down the warming process and thermal shock which is the reason it helps prevent HGF!!
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Yes, it's a very elegant solution to the thermal shock problem. Clever bit of design that.
 
DD3 said:
So, it should just be driven normally and without special treatment?
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Absolutely. If you let the engine idle it's way to running temp it will get a larger thermal shock than driving it normaly. I've recorded the temperature data from my V6 which was fitted with a PRT from it's design stage. If I let is get to running temp by leaving it to idle there is a definite spike in the temperature graph at around 105°C when the stat opens then the engine cools rapidly to around 90°C before it stabilizes at around 98°C. If I drive the car from cold the engine temp just climbs steadily up to it's running temp of around 100°C without the spike.
 
I never let mine idle to get to temp, even when i'm defrosting, then whilst driving I tend not to rev too much over 3k rpm.

seems to work ok for mine
 
I don't have to worry about any of this with the EWP :p! I just drive it normally and it gets up to temp in about 2 mins on an open road :). Water is constantly going through the rad at a very small reate so the temp curve is extremely smooth.
 
WLJayne said:
I don't have to worry about any of this with the EWP :p! I just drive it normally and it gets up to temp in about 2 mins on an open road :). Water is constantly going through the rad at a very small reate so the temp curve is extremely smooth.
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The EWP is one stage better than the PRT. I do on occasion let my V6 de-ice or de-mist for about 5 to 10 minutes, but even with 10 minutes at idle the blower takes enough heat out the engine that it's still some way below the PRT open temp which helps prevent the thermal shock associated with letting it idle until hot!!
 
Nodge68 said:
Absolutely. If you let the engine idle it's way to running temp it will get a larger thermal shock than driving it normaly. I've recorded the temperature data from my V6 which was fitted with a PRT from it's design stage. If I let is get to running temp by leaving it to idle there is a definite spike in the temperature graph at around 105°C when the stat opens then the engine cools rapidly to around 90°C before it stabilizes at around 98°C. If I drive the car from cold the engine temp just climbs steadily up to it's running temp of around 100°C without the spike.
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Very interesting. I don't generally allow mine to idle up to running temp, just perhaps a few mins when really cold. I've always done this with bikes and cars - just seems to make sense.
 
DD3 said:
Very interesting. I don't generally allow mine to idle up to running temp, just perhaps a few mins when really cold. I've always done this with bikes and cars - just seems to make sense.
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I often de-ice or de-mist my Freelander by letting it idle for a few minutes but this should do no real harm as long as it's not reached running temp before it driven.
 
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