What to Look for when Buying a V8

Thought I would start this thread to maybe form a Sticky on what to look for when your buying your 1st Rover V8.

Coming from the tractor section and only having diesels this petrol lark is all new to me. They seem fiddly, need caring after, maintained, cleaned and lubed. Im probably wrong, so this thread is designed as a 1st timers view into what a Rover V8 is REALLY like.

I might be purchasing a Lightweight thats fitted with a 3.5 V8, I dont know what it is out of, looks like an SD1. So, what should I be testing/looking at when I go to see it?

G :blabla:

This is wot I did :
Lets assume the bodywork is ok and focus on the lump.

popped the bonnet & checked the oil level/colour. Checked the colour of residue in the rocker cover (oil filler cap off) is it light brown/dark brown/black? black isnt good ehe.

Check the Sump & transmission sumps for leakage.

Whip the dizzy cover off check for rotor arm play (should be none) & HT leads condition.
If possible whip the spark plugs out and look at their condition.
Check exaust for fuel coming out indicating rich mix or some cylinders not firing due to corroded leads or other fault/s.
Compression testing each cylinder would be handy.
See if whilst idling standing still - If she overheats.

Good start zonehead. Anything that can be tested whilst on the test drive? Friend of mine said give it some beans and jump off the gas, If it backfires its not running on 8 cylinders. It should also drop back to idle and idle nicely. is this correct?

G

yes good test cos it'll highlight alot of fuel/transmission faults.

it might be dependant as to which V8 you are talking about? 3.5/3.9/4.0/4.2/4.6, carb, fuel injected etc....

a good site to start with is RPi - in particular this page

well it is easy to make them run nice for a week or month so its very much buyer beware in my book.dont touch it with a barge pole if you cant strip it down before you buy it works for me every time....

Good link Daft, I was refering to the 3.5 engine but I understand that other (more complicated) V8's post date it.

I particualry like this bit:
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We all need to start somewhere, and this is for sure the best and most reliable place to start!
Take a good look inside even if only through the oil filler hole.
Oh, and you will need a torch, a Penlight is best.

A good look inside the rocker covers through the oil hole will help you to determine the internal condition (and the minimum parts you will need for a successful job).
if your are unsure, it will fall into one of the following categories.

Silver Alloy surfaces? Sounds like a new engine
Brown tarnished? Very low mileage, dark brown? Perhaps higher mileage, but well cared for.
Black? Getting poor, a full rebuild/replacement should be considered.
Black Coated & becoming dense? Very poor condition, A rebuild is normally required
Black and very sludgy? Dead on its feet.

You can be sure this method is a reliable way to determine what you have, and to help you decide what you should do.
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the rest was quite over my head though!

G

Another issue is the general condition of the vehicle. You can always get a new Engine. But if the bulkhead is shot & rot on the underside in key areas well documented, is more important.

You need to make absolutely sure there are no coolant leaks!! Is the header tank up to the correct level, once the engine is warm is the heater blowing hot air, after a run is the top hose solid? is there evidence of water blowing out of the header tank, did the temp gauge stay just below the middle?

Have a careful look at all visible hoses, make a very close inspection in the area of the thermostat housing and round the back of the water pump.

If possible, get a torch and mirror and look at the radiator - look for signs of leaking rad. If it has oil coolers, check around pipe unions. Get hold of the viscous fan (if fitted) check for play and also check that you can turn it relatively easily when the engine is cold. if it is very stiff when cold it is on its' way out or needs some TLC (clean and lubricate the bi-metallic spring and valve on the front. Has the fan nut been butchered with a hammer and chisel?

Take a DVM with you, check battery voltage and alternator output.

Look at condition of the coil and associated wires.

Check there is anti freeze in the coolant. Look at the block, check (as far as you can) that the core plugs are not leaking. If there is evidence of antifreeze on/around the bell housing/gearbox, the internal core plugs might be shot - walk away that's a drop geabox, engine out sort of job for core plugs that cost all of 30p.

Rocker cover gaskets are prone to weeping a bit. Make sure any evidence of oil is from the rocker covers and not the head gaskets.

Look around timing cover - look for any signs of oil or water leaks.

Listen to the engine, it should be smooth and relatively quiet. From idle, grab the throttle linkage and give it a yank to WOT, there should be no hesitation with revs rising quickly and smoothly then settleing down again to smooth idle.

As said above, check colour/condition of oil on dip stick and make sure it is up to the mark. Have a look at the oil filter - does it look old?

Underneath, look around the sump - the sump gasket does fall to bits and leak, well weep a bit (not serious or particularly difficult but a fiddle to sort out).

Look at any visible wiring - has it been bodged?

That should keep you busy, hope it helps.

Cheers Kev. All valuable stuff. prone points all taken on board

G

Have a sniffer test done or do one yourself. 5 minute job and may well save you from buying one with a porous block/slipped liner/head gasket problem.

Check hoses for hardness when up to temp. If the top hose is rock hard walk away.

So it's cooling system, cooling system and cooling system. Black gunge inside the rocker cover as already mentions. Oh, and did I mention cooling system.