Got a V8 in my series 3

But it needs an upgraded radiator as the old one for the 4 cylinder engine isn’t coping at all well.

Anyone got a series Landy on here with a rover v8 in it that has a radiator that copes ok? Any recommendations?

Ive seen an aftermarket upgrade radiator specific for series landys with v8 conversions but they’re a lot of money. Just seeing what my options are.

My v8 is a 3.5 litre from a rr classic 1984.

Thank you

P.

Ps I have another thread on here that’s related to my whole overheating scenario. Sorry if this is going over old ground. Just wanted to see what others have done with my specific set up.

you can get the original radiator re-cored from 3 t0 4 segment to increase cooling

mystery said:

you can get the original radiator re-cored from 3 t0 4 segment to increase cooling

Click to expand...

Ta, would like to know if anyone has done this with a v8 and found the gain adequate. Just don’t want to change it twice.

P.

I've had a 3.5 in my Series 2 for over 20 years and have never had an overheating issue.
I have a standard Series 3 radiator, with an 88°C thermostat and an electric fan from a Citroen BX diesel, mounted in front of the rad.
My engine is fitted with the thermostat housing off a 3.9 Range Rover fitted with A/C so it has an OE temp switch screwed into it, to control the fan via a relay.
I have fitted a few V8's in different Series models over the years and this cooling system has always worked reliably.
The coolant I always run is the G12 used throughout all VW/Audi cars (the pink coloured stuff). In my experience it transfers heat far better than old school antifreeze/water mix. I hope this is of some help...

Rangieman123 said:

I've had a 3.5 in my Series 2 for over 20 years and have never had an overheating issue.
I have a standard Series 3 radiator, with an 88°C thermostat and an electric fan from a Citroen BX diesel, mounted in front of the rad.
My engine is fitted with the thermostat housing off a 3.9 Range Rover fitted with A/C so it has an OE temp switch screwed into it, to control the fan via a relay.
I have fitted a few V8's in different Series models over the years and this cooling system has always worked reliably.
The coolant I always run is the G12 used throughout all VW/Audi cars (the pink coloured stuff). In my experience it transfers heat far better than old school antifreeze/water mix. I hope this is of some help...

Click to expand...

Yes this is all very helpful as it goes. Thank you very much. Its quite reassuring as I got a new standard series radiator and after a few teething problems I got it all working without it over heating. I've been working on the carbs and it's slowly going back together. Hopefully be taking it out for a drive within a couple of weeks. Will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again.

P.

Rangieman123 said:

The coolant I always run is the G12 used throughout all VW/Audi cars (the pink coloured stuff). In my experience it transfers heat far better than old school antifreeze/water mix. I hope this is of some help...

Click to expand...

I've not heard about OAT vs IAT offering different performance in heat transfer, though i understand it's the water that works best. Either antifreeze at a 50/50 mix should have similar heat transfer performance. (G12/OAT is antifreeze/water just like ethylene glycol/IAT)

kermit_rr said:

I've not heard about OAT vs IAT offering different performance in heat transfer, though i understand it's the water that works best. Either antifreeze at a 50/50 mix should have similar heat transfer performance. (G12/OAT is antifreeze/water just like ethylene glycol/IAT)

Click to expand...

300bhp/ton said:

WaterWetter®

Unique agent for cooling systems that doubles the wetting ability of water

www.redlineoil.com

Click to expand...

I've heard of that. Have you used it? Any good?
I'm guessing it's good for custom setups with big turbos etc

I’m just going to use Bluecol and hope for the best. I was just going to drain the rad and fill it up with it. Do you think that will be ok?

It should be fine, just change it regularly.
If you don't know what's been used currently then give it a good wash through to get the old stuff out first. Different types don't mix well

I sold a kidney and use a waterless coolant. Mostly for anti corrosion but after a year the fluid looks as brown as it ever did.

Bobsticle said:

I sold a kidney and use a waterless coolant. Mostly for anti corrosion but after a year the fluid looks as brown as it ever did.

Click to expand...

That's because you have got 40 years worth of rust and crud in the cooling system already.
If you used it in a brand new engine, it would be clean.

Turboman said:

That's because you have got 40 years worth of rust and crud in the cooling system already.
If you used it in a brand new engine, it would be clean.

Click to expand...

I did refurbish the engine before changing over. Although flushing the rest out I’m pretty sure it’s come from the heater. Nothing else is that old.

Bobsticle said:

I did refurbish the engine before changing over. Although flushing the rest out I’m pretty sure it’s come from the heater. Nothing else is that old.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure if it is possible to remove all the rust from inside an engine block and head. It is rough cast inside, ideal for trapping particles.
I doubt if it the rust in suspension does any harm, so long as it is surrounded by some kind of corrosion inhibitors, it isn't going to get any worse.

Turboman said:

I'm not sure if it is possible to remove all the rust from inside an engine block and head. It is rough cast inside, ideal for trapping particles.
I doubt if it the rust in suspension does any harm, so long as it is surrounded by some kind of corrosion inhibitors, it isn't going to get any worse.

Click to expand...

Just strange that it’s stayed red. If it’s devoid of water and oxygen shunt it have gone black.
Praps not

Bobsticle said:

Just strange that it’s stayed red. If it’s devoid of water and oxygen shunt it have gone black.
Praps not

Click to expand...

As you say, probably some residual rust from the heater, etc. I don't think any liquid that gets stirred around is going to be 100% oxygen free.

Turboman said:

As you say, probably some residual rust from the heater, etc. I don't think any liquid that gets stirred around is going to be 100% oxygen free.

Click to expand...

In theory it should be. Even untreated home heating water dunt go red and thats H2o.
It’s been over a year so I may look into replacing it soon although I don’t think it has a shelf life.

Anyone need a lung?

Bobsticle said:

In theory it should be. Even untreated home heating water dunt go red and thats H2o.
It’s been over a year so I may look into replacing it soon although I don’t think it has a shelf life.

Anyone need a lung?

Click to expand...

My central heating water has a Fernox type additive in it. If it didn't, I think it would go red from the steel back boiler. On the other hand, it might go green from the copper pipes.

Turboman said:

My central heating water has a Fernox type additive in it. If it didn't, I think it would go red from the steel back boiler. On the other hand, it might go green from the copper pipes.

Click to expand...

No. It dunt. I’ve replaced radiators on all kinds of central heating and in all kinds of conditions. The only thing that kills em is constantly topping up with fresh water. They still rot but most of the chit is black. Not red rust.

It’s a mystery and not one I can be arsed investigating to be fair. At least it’s not leaking unlike the oil

Bobsticle said:

No. It dunt. I’ve replaced radiators on all kinds of central heating and in all kinds of conditions. The only thing that kills em is constantly topping up with fresh water. They still rot but most of the chit is black. Not red rust.

It’s a mystery and not one I can be arsed investigating to be fair. At least it’s not leaking unlike the oil

Click to expand...

Dunt the Fernox stuff make the rust go black?