Wastegate

Can somebody please tell me whether the wastegate actuator arm should be really sloppy to move backwards and forwards or quire stiff with the need to use grips. I think I have an overboost problem and all forums point to wastegate or egr valve, but the operation of the actuator seems to have various suggestions, I have changed the wastegate actuator switch but at about 2500 revs under load the engine kangaroo's and loses power.

Last time I looked at the wastegate actuator rod on mine, everything was quite secure and required a mole grips on the pin to grip it hard enough to push it.

+1 with brian47 on that, does require a bit of a push to move it.

How many threads are showing on the rod? I assume we are talking about a D2 here.

Cheers

neilly said:

+1 with brian47 on that, does require a bit of a push to move it.

How many threads are showing on the rod? I assume we are talking about a D2 here.

Cheers

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Yes D2 have'nt counted the threads but will tomorrow, I am reluctant to play with the rod but how many should there be?
Thanks

Normally, it would appear there should be 13 threads.

Mine was.

Cheers

Graham Allen said:

,,,,I have changed the wastegate actuator switch....

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What's that? ^^^... do you mean electronic wastegate modulator? ... overboost is rarely caused by sticking wastegate cos it used to get stuck opened not closed, ask somebody to kick down the throttle to 4000rpm few times while you are watching the rod, it should move forward a bit then even stationary, if it doesnt unplug the bottom pipe from the modulator and connect it directly to the actuator valve and make this test again...if still no movement make sure that the pipe which comes from the intercooler is not leaking and if it isnt it means the valve is shot..

sounds a bit like an internally failed vacuum unit (diaphram/spring or both)

sierrafery said:

What's that? ^^^... do you mean electronic wastegate modulator? ... overboost is rarely caused by sticking wastegate cos it used to get stuck opened not closed, ask somebody to kick down the throttle to 4000rpm few times while you are watching the rod, it should move forward a bit then even stationary, if it doesnt unplug the bottom pipe from the modulator and connect it directly to the actuator valve and make this test again...if still no movement make sure that the pipe which comes from the intercooler is not leaking and if it isnt it means the valve is shot..

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Just revved her up to 3500-4000 revs with no movement of rod at all, will try and connect the actuator direct to the intercooler next

put your finger to that little port at the intercooler to see if you feel pressure when you rev it up to rule out a restriction there, then if there is pressure and the pipe to the wastegate valve is leakless as well but still no movement your valve is shot... if you can afford get one of these http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Ad...Defender_or_Discovery_TD5--product--1033.html , i have one and IMO it worths every penny of it

if you get rod movement with the direct setup then the modulator is gone.

Thanks to all who repiled, I have just by-passed the modulator and run a pipe direct from the intercooler to the actuator and it seems a lot better although I have not been up a gradient yet, I had replaced the modulator a month ago so do not think that is the problem, could it beto do with the electrical feed to it, also will it be ok to leave the modulator by=passed as I have seen on youtube that you can,just one more point, as the actuator has obviously not been working for a while, it seems quite stiff, will it free up not that it seems to be working.
MERRY CHRISTMAS

Merry Christmas... the rod is supposesd to be a bit stiff cos the spring in the valve is not soft, eventually spray some wd40 where the rod connects to the wastegate and push it toward the turbo few times with a mole grips, you can let the modulator bypassed but i dont recommend that cos it's better with a working one, check fuse F2 to rule it out.

Or you could just check what is the actual problem 99% of the time.Since 1999 I have replaced just 2 wastegate modulators on DII's,and only the actuators as part of a new or replacement turbo.
Take the actuator off,away from the wastegate arm itself. Hold the end of the arm between your fingertips and waggle it back and forth between both ends of its travel. If it sticks even slightly,one time in ten waggles its not good enough.Bit of penetrating oil squirted onto the shaft where it goes into the turbo. Then with a small hammer rapidly tap all around the area where the wastegate shaft goes in.(For a good 5 mins) While doing this keep waggling the arm back and forth - till its totally sloppy,and I mean REALLY sloppy.Even a slight catch now and again will cause overboost.
Once you are happy with that put the actuator back on and look down the arm of it,going onto the wastegate arm.Is it pulling at 90 degrees,or at an angle ? I have seen them where the compressor housing is clamped on slightly out of line and the actuator arm jams.Easy fix,slacken the bolts and turn the compressor housing slightly.
I must have done hundreds of these,last one was a 110CSW,new to owner,been sat on a forecourt - the arm was siezed solid...

That's strange cos since 2007 when i bought my D2 i've replaced mine being faulty few years ago(i mean the modulator) so did all the guys with D2s i know around here cos IMO modulator failure is quite common especially if it's aftermarket.

sierrafery said:

That's strange cos since 2007 when i bought my D2 i've replaced mine being faulty few years ago(i mean the modulator) so did all the guys with D2s i know around here cos IMO modulator failure is quite common especially if it's aftermarket.

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going to check the fuse next, if the fuse was blown it also feeds the MAF and MAP would I then have had a emu light on the dash come up?

sierrafery said:

That's strange cos since 2007 when i bought my D2 i've replaced mine being faulty few years ago(i mean the modulator) so did all the guys with D2s i know around here cos IMO modulator failure is quite common especially if it's aftermarket.

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Well there's a good reason not to use aftermarket parts in situations like that. Like I said I have dealt with literally hundreds of overboosting TD5's,Disco's and Defenders since they came out in 1999.The first one was for the English Armed forces in a 110 Defender which was full of electronics gear and towing a Satellite dish on a trailer.It had sat in an aircraft hanger unused for 6 months,wastegate seized solid.
I only ever remember replacing one modulator in all those years and one customer who ran his in Defender mode with the pipe straight onto the actuator. My own TD5 Disco is sticking at the moment - lack of use,it sits for days on end without use,then does a bit of work in low range towing a trailer in the woods - hardly needs the wastegate to open...

Graham Allen said:

going to check the fuse next, if the fuse was blown it also feeds the MAF and MAP would I then have had a emu light on the dash come up?

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F2 is feeding the wastegate modulator, the MAF and the EGR modulator, the MAP is not part of this, the MIL warning comes on only for two reasons on a Td5: TPS and CKP(crank) sensors that's all so if F2 is blown the MAF goes to default which if the engine is Eu2 is not a problem, the EGR is stuck closed which is like bypasssed but the wastegate modulator is stuck closed as well which leads to overboost so F2 is something to be ruled out and if the wastegate is working well connected directly to the intercooler but not thropugh the modulator and the pipework is not leaking then the modulator is gone

Graham Allen said:

Can somebody please tell me whether the wastegate actuator arm should be really sloppy to move backwards and forwards or quire stiff with the need to use grips. I think I have an overboost problem and all forums point to wastegate or egr valve, but the operation of the actuator seems to have various suggestions, I have changed the wastegate actuator switch but at about 2500 revs under load the engine kangaroo's and loses power.

Click to expand...

They're normally very stiff to move,usualy need a good pair of grips, are you sure its not a fueling problem,I went down the same route as you and then found it was the in tank pump that was the problem

New modulator fitted, made no difference, f2 all ok, wd40 to ease actuator done, by-passed modulator revs now wind right up and goes much better, but up hill with foot hard down still hesitates with overboost but then seems fo get through it,, when I inspected the electrical connection th modulator one of the wires is chaffed but not broken, but would like to check more and re-wire plug, can you buy these connectors, do I know change the actuator or blank off the EGR? which is likely to still be the problem, remembering that it is now 80% better than it was.

Graham Allen said:

by-passed modulator revs now wind right up and goes much better

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Hi,

What do you mean by "revs now wind right up"?

Also, i would suggest getting it on a live running diagnostic system like a nanocom, so you can see what is happening when you drive it.

Cheers