Urgent Help! stuck in a Car Park With a Dead Car

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Thanks for the suggestions. I thought I'd give you an update :)

Can it be something to do with faulty glow-plugs? I've had the same situation 3 times during the last few days - that the car wouldn't start. The way I get it to start is ignoring the usual key sequence and just forcing the key quickly into Position III.

I mean, normally, I'd put the key in, turn a bit (click) turn again (click) and then engage the starter. Now I just put it in and force it around instantly till the engine begins to cought and eventually starts.

Very weird.

I guess I'll have to get a new solenoid to eliminate that as a cause.
 
motorhead said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I thought I'd give you an update :)

Can it be something to do with faulty glow-plugs? I've had the same situation 3 times during the last few days - that the car wouldn't start. The way I get it to start is ignoring the usual key sequence and just forcing the key quickly into Position III.

I mean, normally, I'd put the key in, turn a bit (click) turn again (click) and then engage the starter. Now I just put it in and force it around instantly till the engine begins to cought and eventually starts.

Very weird.

I guess I'll have to get a new solenoid to eliminate that as a cause.



That sounds like an ignition switch to me.
Someone smarter might come along soon though
Click to expand...
 
While I was shopping for an ignition switch, I found another peculiar thing... and now I'm thinking the guys who were banging on about my battery being fawlty were sort-of right.

My alarm was starting to go bananas and I thought I'd try if my battery was fully charged or not. Hooked up an external charger and it took me more than 8 hours to bring it to a full charge - means it was pretty drained.

It holds charge for about 3 days until I have to top it up again.

Considering it's a very (I mean veeery) good battery and quite a new one too, I'm laying blame on the alternator. It looks dodgy but I'm not sure how to test it.

I'd like to eliminate the connections being fawlty before I spend money on a new alternator.

Is there an easy way to find out if the alternator passes on the juice to the battery? Is there some sort of a tester I can buy?

If I end up buying an alternator (I believe it's exactly what's gonna happen), is it a relatively easy job replacing it? I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty but one has to reluctantly realise that there are limits to one's skills...
 
motorhead said:
While I was shopping for an ignition switch, I found another peculiar thing... and now I'm thinking the guys who were banging on about my battery being fawlty were sort-of right.

My alarm was starting to go bananas and I thought I'd try if my battery was fully charged or not. Hooked up an external charger and it took me more than 8 hours to bring it to a full charge - means it was pretty drained.

It holds charge for about 3 days until I have to top it up again.

Considering it's a very (I mean veeery) good battery and quite a new one too, I'm laying blame on the alternator. It looks dodgy but I'm not sure how to test it.

I'd like to eliminate the connections being fawlty before I spend money on a new alternator.

Is there an easy way to find out if the alternator passes on the juice to the battery? Is there some sort of a tester I can buy?

If I end up buying an alternator (I believe it's exactly what's gonna happen), is it a relatively easy job replacing it? I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty but one has to reluctantly realise that there are limits to one's skills...
Click to expand...

I know you believe your battery is ok, but it sounds to me like it's not holding charge. Take it to a garage that can 'drop test' the battery - that'll tell you if the fault lies there or with the alternator.
 
motorhead said:
Is there an easy way to find out if the alternator passes on the juice to the battery? Is there some sort of a tester I can buy?
Click to expand...

If you have a basic digital multimeter these usually have a 10 amp ammeter function. Disconnect the battery earth and connect the ammeter in series between the lead and the battery. There should be no reading (well almost none as there may be a slight current flow to radio permanent live etc). Any more than 50 mA or so would indicate a problem.

If the diode pack in the alternator has partially failed this can cause a back feed from the battery.

But I agree the battery itself sounds like the likely culprit.
 
an interesting update, guys, but I could really use some more advice
:)
I was lucky this time and the car decided not to start while at home, in the garage.

I hooked my charger up and thought if I manage to start the car when it's re-charged, then I'll be able to rule out the ignition switch and the starter.

Bingo! The car started perfectly when re-charged. So, I suppose it is either the alternator, the battery or one of the connections between them two.

I'm now heading to halflords to get me a multimeter. I was wondering if anyone could do me a big favour: If you have a healthy alternator, what measure do you get from the alternator on the multimeter when the engine is running? Also, what reading do you get on a healthy battery?

iansoady said:
Disconnect the battery earth and connect the ammeter in series between the lead and the battery.
Click to expand...

Ooh, if I do that, the car will start squeling like mad because it will think I'm trying to hijack it. No, I cannot do that... besides, I have no idea what "in series" means. Sorry, I'm one of those artistically inclined persons who used to miss their science lessons :( could you elaborate please?

P.S. I went to one of those big service stations (with national presence) and they did a drop test and a few more tests and told me I was a paranoid. They didn't find any faults. To be honest, after I asked them a couple of questions I had a feeling they didn't have a clue!
 
i've got an el cheapo leccy tester if you want to test your battery and alternator.Where are you in Dorset as I might not be that far away from you ?
 
Last edited:
motorhead said:
an interesting update, guys, but I could really use some more advice
:)
I was lucky this time and the car decided not to start while at home, in the garage.

I hooked my charger up and thought if I manage to start the car when it's re-charged, then I'll be able to rule out the ignition switch and the starter.

Bingo! The car started perfectly when re-charged. So, I suppose it is either the alternator, the battery or one of the connections between them two.

I'm now heading to halfords to get me a multimeter. I was wondering if anyone could do me a big favour: If you have a healthy alternator, what measure do you get from the alternator on the multimeter when the engine is running? Also, what reading do you get on a healthy battery?



Ooh, if I do that, the car will start squealing like mad because it will think I'm trying to hijack it. No, I cannot do that... besides, I have no idea what "in series" means. Sorry, I'm one of those artistically inclined persons who used to miss their science lessons :( could you elaborate please?

P.S. I went to one of those big service stations (with national presence) and they did a drop test and a few more tests and told me I was a paranoid. They didn't find any faults. To be honest, after I asked them a couple of questions I had a feeling they didn't have a clue!
Click to expand...


Whilst the engine is running, you should be getting between 14 and 14.8v from the alternator going into the battery.

With the engine stopped you should have at least 12v between the two battery connections.

The problem for you is that using a multimeter will not satisfactorily test your battery as it will not be under load. That is why I suggested a drop test - as that loads the battery.

As you know batteries are made up of a number of different "cells". You can have a battery which will give an unloaded readout of 12v whilst still having one or more cells bûggered. So it looks ok until loaded but won't hold it's charge satisfactorily or deliver maximum current for starting.

Assuming the red charge light on the dashboard goes out when the engine is running and the rev counter works properly, I would still say it is more likely to be battery than alternator.

God luck

Dave
 
Series71 said:
i've got an el cheapo leccy tester if you want to test your battery and alternator.Where are you in Dorset as I might not be that far away from you ?
Click to expand...

Cheers! I'm in Poole but I could travel a reasonable distance. The car will work fine for 3 days before the next re-charge.

thebiglad said:
Whilst the engine is running, you should be getting between 14 and 14.8v from the alternator going into the battery.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that!
 
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