UPDATE P38 NONE STARTING

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Wayne burgess

Member
Posts
61
Location
Staffirdshire
update on things I’ve replaced the glow plugs with Bosch ones changed all leak off pipes etc put battery back on turns over fast enuf won’t fire up still cracked first injector pipe off whilst cranking no fuel coming thru at all ...for those who didn’t see my previous thread it’s a 2001 2.5 bmw engine only covered 95k miles fuel pump fitted only 2 months ago at a cost of £800
 
Did someone mention if it was the becm then the engine would not turn over at all?.....I may go down the crank sensor route before I start ripping out all the becm ecu etc...will the crank sensor show up on a diagnostic?
 
Dunno why this is in this section.
Did someone mention if it was the becm then the engine would not turn over at all?.....I may go down the crank sensor route before I start ripping out all the becm ecu etc...will the crank sensor show up on a diagnostic?
 
update on things I’ve replaced the glow plugs with Bosch ones changed all leak off pipes etc put battery back on turns over fast enuf won’t fire up still cracked first injector pipe off whilst cranking no fuel coming thru at all ...for those who didn’t see my previous thread it’s a 2001 2.5 bmw engine only covered 95k miles fuel pump fitted only 2 months ago at a cost of £800
Do you have power at the fuel cut off solenoid? Does it click when someone turns the ignition on. You should have added the update to your original post.
 
No fuel at the injectors could be a lot of things.

1)Could be sync between engine ECU and BECM - this will give no fuel at injectors but it will crank
2)Could be bad in-tank pump and not enough fuel in there for the FIP to suck it through - I've heard before that if the fuel is below 1/4 then it can be a pain to start/won't start at all with a dead in tank pump.
3)FIP could be the wrong one for the engine. You mention that the pump was replaced not so long ago - was it with another P38 pump? Again I've read (I have V8's, so not as au fait with the diesel systems) that even though the pump from a BMW or Vauxhall will fit, the pump head with the electronics in it isn't compatible. I believe the Bosch part number on the pump needs to end in 994, 995, or 996 (from memory) for it to be compatible with the P38 ECU.
 
It was owned by my partners Dad he had the fuel pump done so I will ask him what pump was fitted but the previous owner before him spoke on the phone yesterday and he’s told me it’s 100% the sync issue between becm and ecu he owned it ten years and he’s had it done twice in those ten years I told him my symptoms and wat was going on he said take becm ecu out and send them off to be reprogrammed and it will fire straight up so for £110 I’m jst going get it done and go from there and if still no joy we can rule glow plugs ecu and becm out then
 
If it's just an engine ECU/BECM sync issue, then I hire out Syncmate units on my website for £30, plus a £50 deposit. Plugs into the OBD port and will re-syc the BECM and engine ECU immobiliser codes.

Cheaper and easier than pulling the whole BECM/engine ECU off - unless they're all being tested aswell - but if it's definitely suspected as a sync problem, then the Syncmate will sort it in about 30 seconds when plugging it in.
 
Probably bad wiring or corroded pins in one of the RH Footwell connectors, or the OBD socket itself - they're common culprits for bad communication of diagnostics gear.

Hope that sending it off gets it sorted though!
 
That implies that there is diagnostic communication to at least the engine ECU.

Anti theft alarm signal will mean that either the immobiliser code is out of sync, or at least when the ECU was read, it wasn't getting a valid signal from the BECM for some reason.
 
Ye which is wa I thought the only thing in the back of my mind worrying me is the car use to start first time but other times it would crank for 5-8 seconds before actually firing up is this something related to my actual problem now?..if it’s out of sync why did it still use to start after cranking over for several seconds ?..or do you get signs of out of sync failure before it actually won’t start at all?..if you get me
 
Cranking and taking several seconds to fire up is unlikely to be a sync problem. The immobiliser code from the BECM to the engine ECU is sent from when the ignition is turned on to position II - so if it's in sync, then the engine ECU will allow starting from the first turn of the key - there isn't any delay in the immobiliser code being sent.

Likewise, if it goes out of sync, then this is just something that will happen - it isn't a moving part (for example) where wear over time will cause it to slowly fail. The sync issues are generally sudden, with no warning. The only exception to this (that I can think of) is an intermittent connection in the wire, so the signal doesn't get passed properly.

From memory, there is only ONE connector that the immobiliser wire goes through (other than the BECM and engine ECU connectors at their respective ends) and that is the round connector under the coolant tank. It could be worth checking this for corrosion on pins etc - though it is usually a pretty well sealed connector.

Taking longer to crank and start could be a sign of numerous things - and I'm sure someone with more knowledge on the diesel engines will be able to give more info on that.

Getting the sync checked is a good place to start, because without that being done, nothing will happen and there's no way of getting it running. Once you know it should start (from an electronics point of view) then you can work on any other problems.
 
Yes I agree at least for what it costs to have the becm reprogrammed I’m just going get it done so then if I still get the same problem at least it rules that out also the glow plugs were changed yesterday so that’s also ruled out ....as I say it’s always been hard startcat times but always started ....but two weeks ago after leaving the car at my dads I came to it the next morning and all I got was cranking but no firing my dad lives on a very steep bank the Range Rover was parked up facing down and all night with a quarter a tank of fuel but I’m not suggestioning that it has anything do with my issue now
 
To "reprogram" the BECM you would also need to send off the engine EMS to get the code off it. Nanocom or Syncmate easier, assuming the ODB socket is good. Some electrical contact cleaner and light filing with a mouse tail file works wonders.
 
The previous owner had the same issue I’m having mate and said the sync mate didn’t work no idea why...and you say EMS aswell as becm need sending off?..can you tell me where the EMS is located thank you
 
The previous owner had the same issue I’m having mate and said the sync mate didn’t work no idea why...and you say EMS aswell as becm need sending off?..can you tell me where the EMS is located thank you

Because the EMS code needs to be read and entered into the BECM. Should be doable with Syncmate or Nanocom you need to sort out the OBDII comms problem.
 
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