Tyres rubbing.

Mr Noisy said:

The wider wheels are better, but obviously there is a trade off!

If you don't want to cut the arches then they're probably never gonna work!!

Click to expand...

Just as a matter of interest, why are wider wheels better? We are not talking about a performance car and handling through corners are we?

In this case these wider wheels cause the following problems without any compensating benefits imo:

1. They put extra strain on axle/wheel bearing/swivel components;

2. They increase the width of the car to cause problems when offroad - eg going down narrow lanes with boulders either side;

3. They cause the tyres to rub on the wheel arches instead of fitting inside them.

I can't see any benefit to doing this other than offsetting the inner tyre wall of wider tyres so they don't foul on suspension/steering components. But then you could and I would argue that you are trying to fit tyres that are just to wide, if you need this offset.

I suppose it depends on whether you are after a "well-hard" look, or an effective off-road vehicle.

kingsonlim said:

same prob I had years ago when I fitted 235/70/16 muds to a Rangie on standard springs. Tyres were not rubbing onto the wheel arch lips, but were rubbing onto the top arch, where seat belts are anchored. Only happens on full articulation tho.

You can fix this by either

1) fit extended bump stop (will decrease articulation a little tho)

2) fit 1" suspension block under the spring seat & extended bump stop (so that springs are not compressed fully on full articulation)

3) fit +1" or +2" rear springs & extended bump stop

In case you do not know where the bump stop is, looked at your rear axle at approximately 6" inwards after the spring. You'll see a flat section on the axle, the bump stop is right above.

Click to expand...

Im now thinking extend the bump stops as a cheaper option. I know this will decrease the articulation abit, but will it make much differance to the ability of the disco?

I believe a wider track will give less chance of a rollover!

But i may be wrong!

Personally i run 12.5" tyres on 10" rims with a negative 50mm offset so i might be biased, but i think it has made the car feel more planted in dodgy situations than it used to on my 7" rims.

It also does look well 'ard

Admittedly it does tend to run up the sides of narrow lanes, but i do spend most of my time elsewhere (a bog or bombhole)

And yes, it surely does put hella strain on the bearings, but again personally, i do around 1000 miles a year in the disco so i dont notice the effects perhaps.

It's all a big trade off really, there must be some benefit to the wider wheels, just the like there is benefit to narrow wheels too.

Cheers

A couple of people have said to change the springs to HD springs, which I will do when I get round to it as im sure they are due to be changed, but I would of thought the bump stops will also need to be changed to solve the problem as full articulation will still be at the same point? Or am I wrong?
Also what do people recommend, new standard springs or HD springs?

rjw2012 said:

Im now thinking extend the bump stops as a cheaper option. I know this will decrease the articulation abit, but will it make much differance to the ability of the disco?

Click to expand...

extension on the bumpstop is actually the cheapest option. And yes, it will reduce the articulation a little, but not to a point affect the capability of the vehicle off road, unless you are on full articulation all the time, which is hardly the case.

when extended bumpstop is fitted, it'll stop the wheel going upwards hitting the wheel arch while the other side drops down. One other function of extended bump stop is also preventing the springs to be fully compressed when the coils hit each other. The amount of drops on the other side is governed by the available stroke of the shock absorber.

I now have +2" springs and a 2" spring block under the spring. Apart from the extended bumpstop fitted, I'll also have to add spacer to the bumpstop, making it sits 20mm lower. This thus stops the springs fully compressed and the tyres hitting the wheel arch at extreme articulation.

rjw2012 said:

A couple of people have said to change the springs to HD springs, which I will do when I get round to it as im sure they are due to be changed, but I would of thought the bump stops will also need to be changed to solve the problem as full articulation will still be at the same point? Or am I wrong?
Also what do people recommend, new standard springs or HD springs?

Click to expand...

you should only consider HD springs under the following scenarios:

- you carry a lot of gear when off roading
- your standard springs wallows like a ship (moreso the shock absorbers being ineffective in this scenario)
- you intend to remove the anti roll bars

HD springs will give you stiffer ride, so there will be less wallowing about like a boat, BUT, the ride can be harsh according to some as you can now feel every pot hole that you wouldn't notice while on standard springs.

I switched from standard springs to HD springs, then to +2" Bearmach (blue springs). The Bearmack blue springs in my opinion is the compromise, having a softer ride, yet provided the increase in spring rate/ load carrying capacity.

i had that too the offset means they catch at the top of the arch put it down to knackered springs and soft bumpstops dont use extended ones unless you have a lift else it will reduce your articulation (lift kit next)

kingsonlim said:

you should only consider HD springs under the following scenarios:

- you carry a lot of gear when off roading
- your standard springs wallows like a ship (moreso the shock absorbers being ineffective in this scenario)
- you intend to remove the anti roll bars

HD springs will give you stiffer ride, so there will be less wallowing about like a boat, BUT, the ride can be harsh according to some as you can now feel every pot hole that you wouldn't notice while on standard springs.

I switched from standard springs to HD springs, then to +2" Bearmach (blue springs). The Bearmack blue springs in my opinion is the compromise, having a softer ride, yet provided the increase in spring rate/ load carrying capacity.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your help. I will get myself some extended stops for now, then look into replacing the springs with new standard ones.

shorty said:

i had that too the offset means they catch at the top of the arch put it down to knackered springs and soft bumpstops dont use extended ones unless you have a lift else it will reduce your articulation (lift kit next)

Click to expand...

I dont realy wont to lift it atm, so i will try the extended bump stops, if i find it a problem i will look in cuttin away the bits its catching on.

rjw2012 said:

Thanks for your help. I will get myself some extended stops for now, then look into replacing the springs with new standard ones.

Click to expand...

there are also police spec springs that is a tad stiffer (less than HD springs) that you may consider......do a search here on 'police spec springs' and you may find the part number and or where to get some

kingsonlim said:

there are also police spec springs that is a tad stiffer (less than HD springs) that you may consider......do a search here on 'police spec springs' and you may find the part number and or where to get some

Click to expand...

ok thanks. Are all the extended bumpstops +30mm or are they all different?

rjw2012 said:

ok thanks. Are all the extended bumpstops +30mm or are they all dirrerent?

Click to expand...

ANR41889PE Extended Front Bump Stop - to MA113760 - polyurethane

frankly........don't really know how much they are actually extended. Think it's 20mm to 30mm...was a long time ago I did the setting up...and have now chucked all the standard ones, so can't really measure them now to compare...

Usually extended are 80mm where are oem are 50mm iirc

hi there,i am tom and i currantly have a discovery 1 97 that i am modifying for offroading, i am having the same probolem at the moment with choosing what tires i can have,i want 31x10.5 on some black modulars wich stupidly i already have,but i dont know if i have to lift it 2 or 3 inches,and also will i need to cut my arches out at all to fit these tires? thanx

i ran 31x10.5 on 8 spokes, had to cut front bumper, and trim rear arch quite a bit.

otherwise fine, had 40mm lift but standard springs and bump stops.

cool i think i will just get the rear and front square arches from paddock the plus 50mm ones,but the flexy ones,and you say a 2 inch lift is fine with 31's then thats good i just hope it all goes okay,and you mean you had to trim away the front spolier totaly off,coz i wanted too keep it on ,but if i have to i have to, but thanx anyway for the advice,much appriciated so what is your current car now then? ha silly me 92 v8,do you offroad with it then?

You just need to trim a bit of the front bumper sides away, not much.

Yeah I use mine solely as an offroader, couldn't drive it every day!!

cool ,coz i wanted to keep the front spoiler for the fog lights! and i am planing on using mine near enought every day,will this cause probolems, or is it just un bearable?

rjw2012 said:

I dont realy wont to lift it atm, so i will try the extended bump stops, if i find it a problem i will look in cuttin away the bits its catching on.

Click to expand...

Rather than cutting the panels, as kingsonlim said earlier fitting these would more than likely sort out the issue's the tired old springs are presenting. They are not as stiff as HD shocks so off road articulation won't be affected.

the only probolem is that the 31's are going to give no room unless these springs make more room,is that what you are tyring to say ?and plus the tires are realy going to stick out like 2 inches,but thankyou for the suggestion.