Trying to stall when Revs are low and idling badly

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Jojo1974

New Member
Posts
5
Location
Carmarthen
I'm going to start by saying I'm a complete novice but keen to learn with my Haynes Manual.

I had an issue with my 2004 Freelander 1 TD4 not starting from cold and decided to change the glow plugs. This was successful for a few days but now it has developed a new issue.

When driving it at low revs its trying to stall constantly. I've read about the MAF possibly being an issue. Could this be the case.

When I was changing the glow plugs I noticed a small hose was disconnected and I've been researching but can't find anything about it so I've attached a pic. I'm sure it should attach to something and I'm not sure if it could be part of the problem.

Many thanks for any advice
20220820_141242.jpg
 
Hi Jojo.
I doubt the MAF will be the cause of your car trying to stall constantly , it may throw it into limp mode, you can always check by unplugging it, and if the car performs as per normal then yes it's the MAF.

The short blue vacuum coming from the EGR should be attached to the EGR solenoid as in the photo below, you should be able to attach it back without removing the manifold, it could be the problem?
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I would get a leak back test done on the injectors, as that is more likely to be the case for the engine trying to stall constantly, kit below.
Cylinder Diesel Fuel Injector Tester Flow Meter Adaptor Common Rail Leak Off Kit | eBay

Also stick a bottle of this in your car.
( TWO ) 2 x Comma Deisel Injector Magic 400ml Treatment Fuel System Additive | eBay

Get some diagnostics on it, for live readings.

When was the the fuel filter last changed, Haynes Manual is ok if you run out of toilet paper.
 
but keen to learn with my Haynes Manual.

You'll not learn much from a Haynes manual after circa 1990!! They went rubbish after that. :(

That hose is the vacuum supply to the EGR valve, and it connects to a vacuum solenoid under the inlet manifold, near the starter.
Here's a picture of the vacuum solenoid, the pipe in question being in visible in the picture too.
Screenshot_20220825-100055_Gallery.jpg


As for the stalling issue, it's difficult to tell, but really a diagnostic device that shows live data will be needed to show the potential cause, which according to your Haynes manual will be "beyond the scope of this manual".
 
Thank you so much. I replaced the hose and took off the MAF. Also topped up the oil and seems to be running a lot better.

Unfortunately this Landy seems to have a lot of demons as now the tailgate window will only move up an inch. Initially it closed all the way but opened so I tried recalibration and now one inch of movement and nothing more
 
Unfortunately this Landy seems to have a lot of demons as now the tailgate window will only move up an inch. Initially it closed all the way but opened so I tried recalibration and now one inch of movement and nothing more

That's a common issue, which is normally the window drive wires, which are available at reasonable prices. However for a novice to window cable re-threading, it's probably best to buy the whole regulator assembly.
 
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