Tools for the belt job

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I'm going to get one of theose kits, better than 'kin about with bits of old drill and harmonic balancer pullers for normal cars. The vendor is only just down the road from me too.

I went to the ebay guys warehouse this afternoon and picked up on of the timing kts, looks to be a decent enough piece of kit.

Now I need to identify which of the 4 locking plunger thingies is for which purpose:doh: How do I identify the EDC crank locking pin from the 300 tdi crank locking pin from the NA/TD crank locking pin and its injection pump locking pin :frusty:
 
oops, I'm sorry, I didn't mean it was needed to touch the p-gasket to do the cambelt, but on a 120kmiles car of unknown history I think it is worth changing it while it is easy to access

JM says it's risky to change it if it doesn't leak, on the other hand I opened 4 so far, none leaked but all four were very corroded
 
Last edited:
look at back of alternator where aluminum housing meets block you will see if its leaking ,many have later steel gasket ,you may snap bolts that go through water pump to water gallery,i dont undo them unless needed
 
I am new to the disco 300tdi but looks like i've got a few jobs to do on it! Am in 2 minds about doing the cambelt myself but i do know it needs doing before it lets go.

Cheers for the info guys - so glad i joined here!!!

ATB
Daz
 
Changed the belt this week-end, not difficult,but, one thing the book does NOT make clear is how far in the pump locking pin should go I used a piece of 3/8" refrigeration grade copper pipe as a "poke" once the cover was off, and by turning the crank back and forth at TDC I found the the poke wanted to go a bit farther, so once the timing marks were set, belt and tensioner off and the pump sprocket jumped back, did not surprise me really as I was not convinced it was locked in position, so sprocket off and low and behold the "pin" really should have three dimensions, 1) inner diameter where it locates in the housing, 2) diameter where it goes through the sprocket and 3) length of these, as I was gouing to use the " A 3/8th drill can be used as a makeshift locking pin" method ut this is BS so I made up a "get by tool" a masonary drill of unknown size that fitted snug in the inner slot behind the sprocket and a disused socket that fitted the U shped hole in the sprocket drilled out to slide down the drill shank, like a clutch centering too, a bit of effing around I admit and I inend to have a word with a bloke I know with a lathe and have one made,
Devlin
 
Just noticed that i have got coolant dripping out of the water pump housing onto the alternator so it looks like i'll be doing the timing belt and then fitting a new water pump too!

Daz
 
Back
Top