To fiddle or not to fiddle that is the question

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Dippypud said:
I've noticed that you don't see many dizzys these days with the knurled knob for fine adjustment any more, are they defunct or just behaving?

I'm familiar with setting the static timing with a bulb, and pinch clamp ... but 'pinking' can be caused by wear in the dizzy shaft, (movement sideways) ...

Righto, enough drivel ...
Click to expand...
you dont see dizzies anymore or for a while
 
Just been out to have a look at the pulley. You lot must have better eyes than me if you can see the pulley well enough to use if for timing! Do you take the fan off or something, I definitely can't see a pointer, do you do it from underneath?

Col
 
After all of your good advice, my plan was to fiddle with the timing first. The bottom pulley is hard to see clearly with the fan bolted in place, so I'll try Slobs method first to see if that improves things. After that I'll tackle the carb. According to Haynes, it might be preferable to just remove the top half as that contains all the bits I will be interested in. I still need to find the service kit before I start on that. It has been ****ing down for two days so I've not started any of it yet but I'll report back on progress. I hate it when a problem is posted, everyone gives good advice but the OP never reports back on the results. In the meantime, thanks to one and all.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
Just been out to have a look at the pulley. You lot must have better eyes than me if you can see the pulley well enough to use if for timing! Do you take the fan off or something, I definitely can't see a pointer, do you do it from underneath?

Col
Click to expand...

If there are no marks on the pulley and no pointer you may have an early engine ...

If it has an early 2.25 engine there is removable cover on the top right of the flywheel housing with a pointer and the marks TDC, 3 & 6 on the flywheel...

In both cases the marks are designed for static setting of the timing, not using a xenon light...
 
Thanks Diddypud, I'll check that out. Mine is a 2.25, 8.1 compression engine of 1977 vintage so I don't think that it is considered early. It is the 3 bearing one though, so maybe it is.
Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
Just been out to have a look at the pulley. You lot must have better eyes than me if you can see the pulley well enough to use if for timing! Do you take the fan off or something, I definitely can't see a pointer, do you do it from underneath?

Col
Click to expand...
pulley has a little tdc nick in its outer edge and should have marks indicating degrees btdc pointer looks like this
upload_2017-6-6_9-40-32.jpeg

engines are set static at tdc and dynamic using the btdc marks 6 btdc at idle is a good starting point as is the common setting
 
Ok, for anyone still interested. After a good look with a strong torch, I spotted the pointer near the pulley so that answers the question of early or late engine. I mucked about with the timing as per Slobs guide having first marked the dizzy so I could go back if necessary. This method made a slight improvement whilst the landy was standing still, I reckon I advanced the timing by maybe 2 degrees if my mark was anything to go by. However, when I took it for a test drive it was worse, it seemed to be missing a beat every time I put my foot on the gas and it wouldn't hold a steady rev at over 25mph. I then got the strobe out, marked the pointer and pulley notches with a bit of chalk and had another go. According to the pulley marks it was at 3 degrees BTDC. When I put the dizzy back to my original mark, it was slightly less than 6 degrees BTDC. Another test drive had it was back to where it was originally. So now I need to start looking at the carb, still can't find my service kit amongst the ever growing mountain of spares. When I do split it, do I put a smear of Hylomar on the gasket when rebuilding it?

Thanks for all your help thus far

Col
 
I don't know what the recommendation is for Hylomar on a carb - but I would hazard a guess that as it is used virtually everywhere else on a series Land Rover...
 
Thanks Stretch, that's what I was thinking, I love Hylomar. I've just come back from taking it for a spin, the blasted thing broke down on really busy 60mph road. Started running really rough, loss of power and when I stopped, the engine cut out and wouldn't restart. That turned out to be the points had closed up. I think the base plate the point fit to is a bit crap. That is the bit that moves with the vacuum advance. Mine moves but seems to stick. It was a right pain resetting the points cos the plate kept moving when I tightened the screw and wouldn't spring back. Looks like I'll have to strip the dizzy and see if there is a proble with the springs.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
... I think the base plate the point fit to is a bit crap. That is the bit that moves with the vacuum advance. Mine moves but seems to stick. It was a right pain resetting the points cos the plate kept moving when I tightened the screw and wouldn't spring back. Looks like I'll have to strip the dizzy and see if there is a proble with the springs.

Col
Click to expand...
Well that does indeed seem to point towards a hesitation problem. As a rough rule of thumb noticeable advance / retard effects will start to happen (or stop happening) at about 1800 - 2000 rpm. You should be able to see this with your strobe light - you won't be at six degrees at higher engine speeds the spark will happen before that to allow for more burning "time" (in terms of crank position - actual burning time is pretty much constant) of the fuel in the cylinder - you should be able to see if there is a smooth transition at faster engine speeds (though you have to hold them steady for a bit so your eyes can catch up!)
 
boguing said:
Reading you post 49 I'd say concentrate on the distributor before you go near the carb - I think you've found the problem.
Click to expand...
I completely agree. I'm even considering an electronic ignition dizzy. Although I would rather keep my landy as original as poss. So if I fit electronic, I'll refurb my old dizzy and keep it as a spare.
Col
 
An update for anyone still following this.
In an attempt to cure the problem my series 3 landy was having with a misfire type hesitation whilst accelerating above 20 mph, I have replaced the points, stripped and cleaned the carb and fitted a service kit, checked and reset the timing and swore a lot. After all that, it still hesitated /misfired, though not as bad. I have now fitted an Accuspark electronic module in place of the points and condenser and this seems to have done the trick (knock on wood). I fitted a new coil a few months ago so I didn't bother getting the Accuspark one, which I'm now regretting. The instructions for the module provide a couple of tests which need to be done to make sure you have the right coil, failure of the module due to the wrong coil invalidates the warranty. One of the tests says to measure the resistance of the coil, it should be 3 ohms or more. Now, how do you measure this? Is it simply a question of connecting the red and black leads of the meter to the + & - of the coil? If so, I have a problem cos mine reads 1.2 ohm. The thing fires up and runs well but I'm a bit worried about burning out the ignition module.

Col
 
Colthebrummie said:
An update for anyone still following this.
In an attempt to cure the problem my series 3 landy was having with a misfire type hesitation whilst accelerating above 20 mph, I have replaced the points, stripped and cleaned the carb and fitted a service kit, checked and reset the timing and swore a lot. After all that, it still hesitated /misfired, though not as bad. I have now fitted an Accuspark electronic module in place of the points and condenser and this seems to have done the trick (knock on wood). I fitted a new coil a few months ago so I didn't bother getting the Accuspark one, which I'm now regretting. The instructions for the module provide a couple of tests which need to be done to make sure you have the right coil, failure of the module due to the wrong coil invalidates the warranty. One of the tests says to measure the resistance of the coil, it should be 3 ohms or more. Now, how do you measure this? Is it simply a question of connecting the red and black leads of the meter to the + & - of the coil? If so, I have a problem cos mine reads 1.2 ohm. The thing fires up and runs well but I'm a bit worried about burning out the ignition module.

Col
Click to expand...
Coil - you've got two windings - low tension and high tension

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system3.htm

The specification you are measuring (at the + and -) terminals sounds like you are measuring the primary windings.

Try and measure the secondary winding to see if there's a better reading!

(See green book for a better how to)
 
1.2 Ohms is a believable figure for one type of coil in good condition. I've had a look at the Accuspark site but it leaves me slightly confused. It seems to be saying that if you have a ballast resistor in the coil 12V supply you can use a lower resistance coil (like yours), but that contradicts what your instructions say?

If you measure the voltage at the +ve terminal of the coil (with the ignition on) you'll either get more than 12V if it's direct from the battery, or around 9V if there's a ballast resistor in circuit. If it's the latter then I think you'll be OK with the coil you have. Might be best to call them to clarify though.
 
One of the tests in their instructions shows how to determine. Whether there is a ballast resistor in the coil circuit, the test confirms that I don't have a ballast resistor cos I measured the battery voltage then the voltage between the + on the coil and earth, the difference was greater than 80% therefore no ballast resistor.

Stretch, the only way I can think of measuring the secondary winding is to measure between earth and the high tension terminal which I'm reluctant to do cos I ruined an expensive Avo meter doing that once. I think for the sake of £17 I'll just buy the Accuspark coil and be done with it.

Col
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
how to test the gearbox
Replies
6
Views
141
boguing
boguing
L
Freelander 1 Dash board and lights not turning of when key is out
Replies
4
Views
695
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
D
Series 3 Ex MOD ignition timing
Replies
8
Views
555
Diggerat35
D
JIMBOB LR
Less Is More. The LR Series lives on.
2 3
Replies
40
Views
2K
steve2286w
steve2286w
EmilH
Series 3 Think i found the problem.....
Replies
1
Views
269
biketeacherdave
biketeacherdave
Back
Top