To fiddle or not to fiddle that is the question

It's the primary winding resistance that you (and Accuspark) are interested in.

After doing a static timing and it's able to run you should use a strobe to fine tune it. Mark the tooth with tippex so it shows on the strobe light. Before diving into the strobe setting have the dizzy clamp loose enough to adjust. It'll be a small tweak to get it lined up. If you've still got problems the vacuum advance.

I'm pretty happy that the timing is as good as it's going to get with the existing distributer. I have timed it statically, with a strobe and using Slobs method and overall, taking into consideration smooth running at tickover and throughout the Rev range under load, Slobs method seemed to work the best. In the 70's and 80's I used to set the timing by ear regardless of what the strobe indicated and I always achieved a god balance of performance and economy. Having driven modern company cars for over twenty years, I think I sometimes lose sight of the fact that me landy has an underpowered engine pulling a very heavy, brick shaped vehicle.

Col