To buy or not to buy??

That's a shame! And very odd that the same engine can be so different!



Might go look at another tomorrow. In terms or acertaining an ird's health, if all the prop parts are still attached, can you feel for play in the pinion drive bearings and the front drive shafts for play?

You can turn them for free play which should be negligable but best is to check oil from IRD for metallic evidence. Not easy to do when it's not yours!! If you get close to purchase you could make it a condition of sale??

andyfreelandy said:

Can I fit a Beemer steel crank to my old engine??

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I think Warren of Muddy Mods fame was doing a steel crank conversation for the M47R.

Karlos28 said:

I presume the chain is also on the output (gearbox) end of the engine?

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The M47 has the timing chain next to No 1 cylinder.

Karlos28 said:

How odd, the BMW's is at the back/gearbox end, crsnk won't be interchangeable then!

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It's at the front of the car in a 3 series, which makes it in the same position as the TD4.

Might get a BMW crank and see if it looks like a goer.

They must have moved it at some point then. Maybe only the early ones there like that then? Or I'm completely wrong?!

Hmm yeah not something I can do on a test drive then!

After a quick google, it seems there is basically a long snout and a short snout crank, and an 88mm and a 90mm stroke length. Ours is 'apparently' the short snout short stroke and it seems possible alternate cranks for us would be from the m47tud20 and m47tu2d20 engines... What they were fitted in, I haven't got that far yet as I hopefully won't have any need!! But it's interesting!

Just been thinking also, are things like cruise control from retrofittable?

Karlos28 said:

Just been thinking also, are things like cruise control from retrofittable?

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Aftermarket yes.
And factory CC system too, although only with an automatic FL1.

Just had a quick search, I see mention of changing ECU. Is that the complete ECU, nightmare to code ect or are they plug and play?

Good that the harness is all there!

Also am I right in thinking nothing can do diagnostic tests pre 2005 other than a Hawkeye? I have a delph150e I hoped was going to work..

Another question, are the 3 door's shorter than the 5? Or are they like other cars where everything is then same except just bigger doors?

3 and 5 door are the same length just longer doors and less of them on the 3 door

td4van said:

3 and 5 door are the same length just longer doors and less of them on the 3 door

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also heavier and more stress on the hinges.

Interesting, 3 doors seem much cheaper/better value for money!

I have a three-door and I much prefer the look, not to mention the flexibility in the summer with the removable hard top.

Karlos28 said:

Interesting, 3 doors seem much cheaper/better value for money!

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They are less practical as a family vehicle, so are less expensive to buy. The 3 door was also cheaper when new and the spec isn't quite comparable between 3 and 5 door models.

Tis true, I want a 5 really. It would make life a lot easier loading things in and stuff. Dare I say it might one day be used as a family vehicle too... Just realised I am 30 next year...

Really can't decide between auto and manual. I think in terms of driving I would prefer an auto, but in terms of reliability I can't seem differentiate. The manual sounds like clutch/DMF is a pig, then the auto has its various solenoids and clutch packs...

Manwell clutch is about £700 to replace at a garage if yer can't do it yerself. Auto's do have faults but it's not always the auto itself when yer got drive problems. A lot depends on if it's been looked after ior thrashed. Oil changed when needed. And wot miles it's done.

I'd be happy to do it myself. Think I saw a solid flywheel conversion with clutch for about £500 somewhere, cheaper than a new DMF?

I'd say at my budget the average is about 130k miles now. Obviously hard to tell if any fluids have been changed without draining, which I doubt I will manage on a test drive! That's the gamble though I guess. Also suppose if it's been doing a lot of towing it's going to have stressed/worn drivetrain bits..

The auto box will do 200K miles or more, providing the fluids have been changed on time.
The manual clutch needs changing every 100K miles or so. So it's definitely cheaper to drive an auto from a mechanical maintenance point of view. I my opinion, the Freelander also drives better as an auto. This to me is worth the increase in fuel consumption that the auto suffers over the manual box FL1. The auto is also better for towing heavy loads and gives less strained off road performance.

i think I would prefer an auto. I can do any oil changes and stuff going forward and WORST case change the box... but with a manual, if there is an issue, its likely to be the clutch, which is a whole lot out job anyway! a clutch seems more likely to me on a higher mileage car than a fault on an auto so bad it requires the box to come out..