Classic Timming problem

simonbbc? I've had some bits from him myself.

Bit of an afterthought - I presume you know that the dizzy shaft also drives the oil pump but I'll mention it just to be sure.
When you fit the dizzy the bottom of the shaft engages with the top of the oil pump drive so you need to have the pump drive in the right position.
Long screwdriver will adjust it.
If all lined up the dizzy will fully seat.

smudge67999 said:

So im going to take off the rocker cover..can i just verify this procedure.if i turn engine over untill the inlet valve on number 1 cylinder goes down opens then keep turning untill it comes back up fully closed piston at tdc rotor pointing to number1 on cap will this run is this right.

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NO, both valves should be closed, both rockers should be loose with no pressure from the pushrod pushing against the springs, or 'rocking' as we say. This means both valves are firmly shut and on the compression stroke, crank should be at tdc at this point

Also have you got the right number 1 cylinder and not the wrong side? just a thought

smudge67999 said:

So im going to take off the rocker cover..can i just verify this procedure.if i turn engine over untill the inlet valve on number 1 cylinder goes down opens The piston should be at/ near the top and be on its way down then keep turning untill it comes back up fully closed The piston should be down near the bottom of the stroke when the valve closes continue to turn crank to get piston to tdc check with a screwdriver in plug hole and crank pulley marks piston at tdc rotor pointing to number1 on cap will this run is this right.

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Have added a couple of comments that may help, it’s should be close enough to pop and fart then you can fine tune the distributor. It should spark (points open) just before tdc.

good luck

J

smudge67999 said:

Hi just let you know the distrubutor i brought was off ebay off a guy name simon he fully rebuilds them .he comes straight up in search engine .its not the cheap chinese ones

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I fitted a sparkrite electronic which came from him via able engineering...had to remove ballast resistor and swop coil that came with kit and also had to add an earth from module on dizzy...

smudge67999 said:

So im going to take off the rocker cover..can i just verify this procedure.if i turn engine over untill the inlet valve on number 1 cylinder goes down opens then keep turning untill it comes back up fully closed piston at tdc rotor pointing to number1 on cap will this run is this right.

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I would you point you, again, at the test where you sense for compression either with a thumb or a compression test as this would not involve looking at rockers, etc, which seem to be a worry for you.

Shippers said:

I fitted a sparkrite electronic which came from him via able engineering...had to remove ballast resistor and swop coil that came with kit and also had to add an earth from module on dizzy...

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He mentions, indirectly, having electronic ignition, right in his first post. But he sure needs to make certain that all original or replacement components are up to snuff.

I'm beginning to think that it being an eight cylinder engine, the gap between each segment in the dizzy cap is so small maybe he is getting it misaligned.
He could try drawing a line from the middle of the plug connection to the cylinder down and onto the outside of the dizzy body, then taking the cap off, carrying the line back up the dizzy under where the cap was to the top and over the edge of the top. He may then find it easier to align this with the rotor arm. 45 degrees may seem enough to make no mistakes but I have seen people struggle with a 4 cylinder.

Just another thought.
It is possible that the mark on the crank pulley may not be all that accurate, this has been known, so why not ignore it and put a long screwdriver or summat in the plughole and watch it to see where it stops moving up any further, or move it till it just stops moving, mark that on the pulley, then turn it further until the screwdriver just starts to move in the other direction.
Mark that on the pulley then you know TDC is halfway between the two.
If this mark matches up with the TDC as marked on the pulley then all well and good, but if it doesn't he now has a true TDC to work from.
I have had to do this on some engines and found that the mark on the pulley can be quite a way out, not often but it happens.
Let's face it, he seems to have checked everything else over and over again.
Only other thing I can think is to separate the plug leads as far as poss so they don't let the spark jump from one lead to another or indeed to any metal in the engine bay or on the engine.
In the vid they all seem to be bunched up behind a metal pipe.

I take it that you have checked that you actually have a spark?

tomcat59alan said:

I take it that you have checked that you actually have a spark?

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Thats what I was thinking as well!...I would pull a plug and test before messing with valve covers etc..

tomcat59alan said:

I take it that you have checked that you actually have a spark?

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And just not a spark, but a good bright one.

Western Slope Rover said:

And just not a spark, but a good bright one.

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,

We like bright sparks

brianp38dse said:

We like bright sparks

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Keep plugging away at the one liners...lol
Never a dull moment on Landyzone...lol

Better to check all the sparks. With fuel & sparks, as long as the timing is close it should fire & run even if a bit rough.