timing

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kindwarf

Active Member
Posts
109
Location
West Yorkshire
I changed the cambelt last week and my 300tdi doesnt seem to drive as good as before, its sounds realy lumpy and sounds if its missing on start up, its an auto and acceleration isnt as good and to go up a steep hill I used to get 45 mph it only goes up at 35 full peddle it just seems a bit flat, could a cog moved I put a pin in the pump to lock that and loosned that cog, marked the camshaft cog with the inner casing but didnt have the pin that goes in the bell housing but I thought the woodruf key in the crank was at 12 oclock am I right assuming this it can only be a tooth out or so any help appreciated, thanks
 
No, you need to be a liitle more accurate. Get the flywheel pin and reset the timing again, it only has to be very slightly out to lose power on a diesel.

I made my pin with a drilled wading plug and some rod, it must be drilled centrally though, I'm nit sure that auto's are the same though, I the pin goes in the front of the adaptor plate doesn't it??

Still, my money is that the problem lis there.
 
Why did you loosen the injector pump pulley? There is no need to do this for a straight cam belt change. For the sake of £20 it's worth having a set of timing pins, especially if you're planning on keeping the disco a while or sticking to land rovers in general.
 
Why did you loosen the injector pump pulley? There is no need to do this for a straight cam belt change. For the sake of £20 it's worth having a set of timing pins, especially if you're planning on keeping the disco a while or sticking to land rovers in general.




You DEFINITELY do need to loosen the three bolts holding the pump sprocket onto the pump, otherwise there is every possibility of having too great a tension between the pump and camshaft sprockets.
 
You DEFINITELY do need to loosen the three bolts holding the pump sprocket onto the pump, otherwise there is every possibility of having too great a tension between the pump and camshaft sprockets.




Only if the timing pins are in, otherwise theres nothing holding anything against anything.
 
you need to slacken 3 bolts so that accurate timing of pump, you turn engine over twice and recheck tension/position so that belt is evenly tensioned between all pulleys,there is a mark on crank pulley and casing as there is for cam pulley so that accurate timing can be done without pin,when set slacken 3 x pump pulleyt bolts insert 9.5 or 9mm drill bit in pump make sure its fully home with spanner turn pump nut clockwise so as to jam pin tighten bolts this makes sure injector pump isnt retarded
 
As I said in my post, I put a pin in the fuel pump to lock that and loosened the locking bolts as mentioned marked the position of the cam pully on the pully and the casing , the only thing I didnt have was the pin for the fly wheel and I was'nt aware of that moving, are there factory markings on the external crank shaft pully and a corresponding one on the casing like petrol engines, does the crank shaft have to be set so many degrees before TDC or TDC, also are there any factory markings on the camshaft pulley and casing.
 
As I said in my post, I put a pin in the fuel pump to lock that and loosened the locking bolts as mentioned marked the position of the cam pully on the pully and the casing , the only thing I didnt have was the pin for the fly wheel and I was'nt aware of that moving, are there factory markings on the external crank shaft pully and a corresponding one on the casing like petrol engines, does the crank shaft have to be set so many degrees before TDC or TDC, also are there any factory markings on the camshaft pulley and casing.


If you buy yourself a crankshaft/flywheel locking pin all your questions will be answered in one go.
 
I got it sorted and timed properly and it runs like a dream, I looked for the place to put the locking pin in bell housing hole was there but nothing on the fly wheel, I looked in a professional data book for cam belt fitting and what no one said on here was that you have to take an inspection plate on the front of the bell housing of a auto and screw the locking pin in there with that done all ok.
 
I got it sorted and timed properly and it runs like a dream, I looked for the place to put the locking pin in bell housing hole was there but nothing on the fly wheel, I looked in a professional data book for cam belt fitting and what no one said on here was that you have to take an inspection plate on the front of the bell housing of a auto and screw the locking pin in there with that done all ok.


Hate to say 'i told you so' :D:D:D The timing on a diesel is critical.

Its good that she's running again though:):):)
 
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