Timing issue

Hi guys i have a 300tdi disco, i recently changed my injection pump, but like a fool i never timed the car up before removing it so after refitting the new pump i had to time the whole engine up crank and cam are bang on the marks, i got the pump timed up with a locating pin through the pulley fitted new belt tensioner and idler, all back together but i cant get it to run right it struggles to start when cold its got a bad diesel knock and is down on power. Can anybody put me right where have i gone wrong PLEASE HELP it driving me crazy thanks in advance

did you undo the large nut in center of pump pulley

I didnt undo the big nut but did remove the pulley

by the 3 bolts is fine, are you sure crank, cam are exact

Yes i have stripped it down 3 times now to check 1 thing though i cant get a pin in the flywheel when its inline the cank is about 40 degrees out so just time it with the crank keyway at 12 o,clock

normaly you use a sprung loaded pin fitted just before 12 so its clicks in as you reach it

Yeah its nowhere near when the pin drops in your at about 4 o,clock

key has to be at 12 and flywheels have more than one slot, 300 is smaller dia than previous slots that are there on the flywheel

Discokev300 said:

Yeah its nowhere near when the pin drops in your at about 4 o,clock

Click to expand...

By way of confirmation, remove the rocker cover and check the rocker/valve position on cylinder number one when you think the timing marks are indicating TDC, both valves should be closed on the rise of the piston. Further confirmation can be had by removing the injector from cylinder number one and using a thin rod down the hole to gauge the rise of the piston to TDC on compression. That is the true crank position to set the pump to, so if after you've done that and the pump setting pin won't go in, your crank keyway or flywheel timing slot is out for some reason. But if you set the pump to that it should run ok.
It's Interesting that the keyway and flywheel slot are out of phase, not sure if the flywheel mounting to crank is angular movable on this engine, as far as I can figure this is the only way those two indicators could be out.

The car actually ran fine until i replaced the injector pump my mistake was removing the cambelt and pump and pulley thinking i could time it up on refit but thats where my problems lay i have had it running for a few weeks but its just not right at all

I changed the pump because i was losing fuel at the throttle shaft and the car was cutting out periodically but later found a stone in the fuel line which was restricting the fuel supply

Discokev300 said:

I changed the pump because i was losing fuel at the throttle shaft and the car was cutting out periodically but later found a stone in the fuel line which was restricting the fuel supply

Click to expand...

Both common leakage points on the Bosch VE pump can be fixed with the IP in place on the engine, (throttle shaft and discharge head), the latter being a bit of a fiddle but certainly achievable.
There is a "point of injection" (POI), figure for the pump, that is a stroke measurement of the pump related to TDC of the engine but a dial indicator and special adaptor is required for the job, if the POI setting is incorrect the engine will not run well. That position can only be lost if the drive pulley adaptor is removed from the IP shaft.
There is no need to alter any "as found" settings of the pump to replace "O" rings on the throttle shaft or discharge head.