This is absolutely depressing

What may be confusing it that you don't just have to disconnect the IRD from the bracket - you also have to disconnect the bracket from the engine and remove it to then be able to remove the IRD. That's what the pile of bolts and metal is in the background on my pic under the engine.

GrumpyGel said:

What may be confusing it that you don't just have to disconnect the IRD from the bracket - you also have to disconnect the bracket from the engine and remove it to then be able to remove the IRD. That's what the pile of bolts and metal is in the background on my pic under the engine.

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It always confused the heck outa me.

Alibro said:

It always confused the heck outa me.

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Yeh I know, but you have to make allowances for the OP - he's an Aussie.

Yeah i knew that mate hence why i couldn't get that hidden bolt out of the rear IRD mount, i will remove the dog bone bracing today and undo the drive shaft its going to be 40c today so not much work will get done but i will make an effort

I have the bone shape frame removed, i have both drive shafts removed, i have both wish bones removed, i have the front engine rock guard removed

Now what is the best was to remove the drive shaft from the IRD box with minimal work? i have seen it completely removed including the end gear on the shaft inside the IRD box but that was only for the 2wd conversion i need 4wd for towing but i dont have any gaskets if i remove it like this to reseal the IRD box

Picked up a ebay china 20v 1/2 inch cordless impact wrench took around 20mins flat to remove all the above piece of ****

now i have access to the last IRD bolt than the IRD can be removed and than finally the last clutch bolt

I don't know if you need to remove the passenger side drive shaft to get the gearbox out, but you do not need to remove the drivers side drive shaft to get the IRD out. All you need to do is to remove the 2 bolts holding the hub to the strut and ease the hub outwards (you may need to remove the ABS sensor to give it enough movement and possibly unclip the brake hose as well). This expands out the drive shaft. You can then pop the drive shaft out of the IRD with a largish screwdriver to ease it out. Once the drive shaft has been popped out of the IRD it can be moved away enough to get the IRD out. you can see in the pic I uploaded what the hub looks like when its eased back - and you can see the 2 holes where the bolts were removed from to allow it to swing away.

When I popped the drive shaft out on my L Series, it came out quite easily. When I did it on my K Series parts car - same IRD and drive shaft as the L Series - it was a right PITA. Took me quite a while before I managed to pop it out, so persist if it give you jip.

When I reinstalled everything, it all went back OK, I didn't even replace the round clip on the end of the drive shaft that clips it into place.

Both front drive shafts are out but i meant the drive shaft that goes from the IRD to the rear differential where about do i separate it?

The driveshaft mentioned is the only thing bolted onto the IRD now so once i know where to take it apart i can slide the IRD out tomorrow

WildOne said:

i meant the drive shaft that goes from the IRD to the rear differential where about do i separate it?

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Remove the 6 Torx bolts where the propshaft's CV joint attaches to the IRD output flange and separate the CV from the flange. You may need to tap it to free it off, but they normally come apart ok.

Once free, move the propshaft to the side, so the IRD can be slid out the way.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/clutch-change-in-a-td4-list-of-jobs-to-do.315242/
It might be a good time to take another look through the list and check if you've missed anything. I find I sometimes have to read a to-do list several times to spot something I've missed.
Disconnecting the Propshaft from the IRD was the first thing in this list of things to do (although I didn't say how to do it) It may be for a TD4 but 95% (ish) of the steps are the same.

Edit. I just updated the do-do list with text shamelessly plagiarised from Nodge's post above.
Thanks Nodge

Thanks guys

I think I'd also be inclined to separate it from the rear diff as well, unbolt the VCU from the under side of the car and move the whole prop/VCU assembly out of the way. Its difficult enough trying to manouver the IRD (all 30kg of it) without the prop interfering with access. However, if it can be pushed out of the way, and probably rested on the subframe, so that its not interfering, then that's fine.

GrumpyGel said:

I think I'd also be inclined to separate it from the rear diff as well, unbolt the VCU from the under side of the car and move the whole prop/VCU assembly out of the way. Its difficult enough trying to manouver the IRD (all 30kg of it) without the prop interfering with access. However, if it can be pushed out of the way, and probably rested on the subframe, so that its not interfering, then that's fine.

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I think I tied mine up last time. It was quicker and easier then removing completely and didn't really get in the way.

I don't feel there's any real benefit by removing the whole propshaft assembly. There's sufficient flex in the front UJ to allow the front shaft to be moved well out the way.

Thanks guys going to start working on it soon its over 40c here today tho so a bit hot to be spinning a spanner

Its going to be over 40c for at least the next 4 days as well.

Hope its cooled down by the time we arrive next month.

At this time of the afternoon its bearable about 5pm i just unbolted the tail shaft that was quiet easy and the bolts were not done up very tightly was there a reason for this? i also thought the shaft was going to be splined hence i asked how to take it out but it was a simple butt joint so the shaft is out of the way now the IRD box i noticed one more upper rear mount i need to unbolt, i will resume work tomorrow i need to pick up a trolley jack for the gearbox and IRD box

worse part is the man eating flies!!!!

WildOne said:

the bolts were not done up very tightly

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Normal.

WildOne said:

was there a reason for this?

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They're tiny bolts, so wouldn't take being wound up tight. They're just nipped up, then a 3/4 turn more. That's all that's needed as the bolts are subject to a shearing force in use.

Thanks, i think we went about the whole clutch change the wrong way we thought it would be easy just taking the gearbox off than putting it back on like a japanese built car so we struggled getting to all the bolts

I now have half of the front of the car off from underneath i think we are making steady progress

When we couldnt get the gearbox off it was so depressing all our knowledge on japanese cars and we were stuck

Forgot to ask when we took out the passengers side drive shaft from the gearbox no oil came out, is this right? Need to work out if i need seals or if this is normal

WildOne said:

Forgot to ask when we took out the passengers side drive shaft from the gearbox no oil came out, is this right? Need to work out if i need seals or if this is normal

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There should have been enough oil for a gush of oil to come driveshaft hole, when the joint was removed. So it was definitely very very low on oil, or completely empty.

It's generally obvious that the oil seals are leaking, as oil will cover the bottom of the box. There's a couple of litres in there, so it makes a real mess, should it all leak out.