P38A Things that should be somewhere...

I'm doing the whole "dash out" thing to look at the heater matrix because I have anti-freeze on the driver transmission tunnel carpet (hopefully O rings)
But I've found these two items
The rubber tube was resting behind the outer wing panel just in front of the passenger door-i assume it's the end of a drain (sunroof? Plenum? )
The metal clip was resting inside the dash on the passenger side, to the left of the glovebox and below the blower motor.
Any help as to where these two things should go, please?

The round one is a sunroof drain end I think., the clip not so sure!

Hope somebody knows about the metal object. Had the glovebox and blower motor out and put it all back a few months later and found I had said metal part left over - cannot remember at all where it is supposed to go

Looks like the rubber tube is the bottom end of the sunroof drain. Apparently it exits in front of the door, so I'll have to rummage around there to see if it's obvious.

Still no ideas about the clip thingy

I also had that metal clip fall out of my dash, it landed down on the drivers side footwell ain't got a clue where it came from but all is well with the old girl .

Metal clip is retainer for outer fresh air/heater air vent unit. one either side.

if you are doing the dash out thing.. replace the heater matrix.. i thought my wet carpet was the O-rings.. replaced them.. it wasn't.. it was the matrix rotted out.. Marty UK did it for me.. no book symbol.. all the blend motors are done.

Thanks, Wammers.

ukadamwest said:

if you are doing the dash out thing.. replace the heater matrix.

Click to expand...

Any opinions on heater core matrix suppliers? EBay seems to vary from £25 to £100. Or should I go for the Audi matrix alternative? Opinions sought.

ibgarrow said:

Any opinions on heater core matrix suppliers? EBay seems to vary from £25 to £100. Or should I go for the Audi matrix alternative? Opinions sought.

Click to expand...

At least if you fit the Audi matrix you will never have to do the o rings ever againl

tomcat59alan said:

At least if you fit the Audi matrix you will never have to do the o rings ever againl

Click to expand...

Yeah, but it's the faffing about with the hoses and connection discrepancies that puts me off. Not planning to do the O-rings again in my driving lifetime!

Pushing my luck, I suppose.
I'm looking at Bearmach pattern replacement IF mine looks leaky. Twice the price of cheapest, and seems a decent brand.

Ask Marty UK.. he replaced mine with the Audi one. its worthwhile doing all you can in there. make sure the blend motors are good as well as the heater matrix..

Land rover started with the heater matrix and blend motors and built the rest of the P38 around them

Replied to PM...

Nissens 70230 is the part number I use these days. Slightly bigger heater hose connections, so 19mm is a really tight fit. Even I get a bit of weeping after awhile on the smaller one - partly because I'm sure the clamps loosen off just a smidge over time with all the heating/cooling cycles. Having the tighter fit of hose-core can't hurt that. If I'd known the 70230 core had bigger hose connections 5/6 years ago when I did mine, then I'd have gone with that in the first place!

Whilst you have the dash out and heater box out to fit the new core, check all the blend/distribution flaps are free and working properly. Any that are getting stiff, I strip the heater box down, clean all the old (and generally now solid) grease out, ream out the holes a bit to allow a bit more freedom in the moving parts, and then reassemble with some silicone grease. Frees everything up a bit again which gives the blend motors an easier life...

Glad I've done the dash out method now. Looks like I can get all the issues fixed (even before they start)
Book symbol shows on the HEVAC occasionally, but as all the direction buttons seem to function ok, I figured it might be lack of gas...sorting out all the blends should show up the problem

The dash-out method is by far the easiest... you need the heater box out on a RHD to swap the heater core whether you are putting in a factory one, or going Audi conversion, as the framework and the steering column are in the way.

It is also nice to then be able to check over the blend motors and distribution flaps etc at the same time.

The distribution flaps are the normal culprits for sticking. The last heater box I overhauled (for a '98 that I'm restoring) had distrobution flaps almost seized solid.

Took me Thursday afternoon to get the dash loose (how ON EARTH did they get the driver's heater duct screw in?) and rain stopped play yesterday and today. Looks like Sunday might be heater out and refurb time, plus a few more days until replacement core arrives (I'm still vacillating between replacing O-rings and trusting the core is OK after inspecting it, and replacing the core anyway, just-in-case. Probably the latter, to be sure)
Then I just have to get it all stuck back together.

And when the weather permits, there's the wayward steering to investigate, the air suspension to replace, and the tailgate bottom to sand, primer and respray.....

Man's got to have a hobby.

Those screws are a pain on the dash ducts. I am pretty sure I used a junior hacksaw blade to cut the mounts to pull them out... About the only bit of destruction I do when taking the dash out. I lavish the ducts with duct tape on reinstallation though, so the lack of that one screw doesn't seem to make a difference!

I have the distinct feeling that those ducts were already in place, and the top of the dash bolted to the metal framework to begin with - and the the whole frame/dash assemble was fitted as one. Which will be why those screws are such a PITA with the dash in place in the vehicle!

ibgarrow said:

Glad I've done the dash out method now. Looks like I can get all the issues fixed (even before they start)
Book symbol shows on the HEVAC occasionally, but as all the direction buttons seem to function ok, I figured it might be lack of gas...sorting out all the blends should show up the problem

Click to expand...

Low or lack of gas will not cause book symbol to appear.

wammers said:

Low or lack of gas will not cause book symbol to appear.

Click to expand...

Oh. Bum. Hopefully it'll be blend problem, then, that'll be sorted by my attention!

Any other probable causes?

I really don't want to put it into a JLR dealer for diagnosis (I'm the member who was quoted over £5K for a service!)