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Bugger - thats not gonna be too easy 
- handbrake off to do it.
- handbrake off to do it.
The perfect D2?
- Thread starter DnLegacy
- Start date
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
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- louth lincs
thats only 4x 15mm headed bolts after removing prop, usually just the 3 nuts come loose on the special studs holding damper
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- Embasinga stocæ
i know how to dismantle the handbrake.
two studs have sheared level with the t box housing and one stud is very worn and loose. will need drilling and retapping.
two studs have sheared level with the t box housing and one stud is very worn and loose. will need drilling and retapping.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
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- louth lincs
m10 recoil
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thats what I thought.
Remove handbrake assy including backplate. drill out old studs. retap if necessary (it will be) [smile] sods law [/smile] and replace studs and loctite in position to stop them corroding in again
- steel into alloy housing.might try heating studs first to see if that will crack the joints.
Not a 5 minute job tho
.You probably won't like it at first as it seems to rev far too high. After a few hundred miles you get used to it. I wouldn't swap back to a manual after nearly 5 years with the auto.
thebiglad
Well-Known Member
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- 7,387
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- Central France
So what's to stop the seller from changing the knob to one showing the diff-lock markings? My RRC didn't have any markings
Better to have a photo showing the diff lock light illuminated.
A bit like in the Ford Sierra days, when cars with four speed boxes but with a gear knob showing five so to increase the sale price in an auction.
Isn't the CDL on an RR the viscous auto-locking type? So there wouldn't be any marks on the lever as it's not selectable.
HI folks so a long way down the line and I am now a very happy D1 owner 96 manual, bit battered round the edges but after a few weeks and several hundred happy miles I trust it not to let me down now not immediately anyway,
So onto moding and tidying wheels and tyres first in think.
Anyway thank you all for the advice etc even though I did change my mind and go D1
So onto moding and tidying
wheels and tyres first in think.Anyway thank you all for the advice etc
even though I did change my mind and go D1
discodrivercumbria
Well-Known Member
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- 3,317
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- South lakes
HI folks so a long way down the line and I am now a very happy D1 owner 96 manual, bit battered round the edges but after a few weeks and several hundred happy miles I trust it not to let me down now not immediately anyway,
So onto moding and tidying
Anyway thank you all for the advice etc
did it come with a camera? you know we all like pics especially when the telly is absolute rubbish!!
ronsealdeath
Sagging Member
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- 1,851
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- Swansea, Wales
Did it come with a free bottle of jenolite?
Lol not sure one bottle will cover it, front inner arches are... weight saving on the plus side and along with the boot floor that was patched for the mot will need sorting this year, plan at the moment is to tackle it myself :-/ I will probably wreck it ive not welded in years.
Still loving it though
Still loving it though
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mikerajjers
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The centre diff isn't very important in my opinion as the TC is very good on the D2. It's great to have don't get me wrong, but not essential. I do quite a lot of offroading with my D2 and if I do get stuck just use a winch. I have a replacement LT230 box with the diff lock in the garage but haven't got round to fitting it yet.
