the "F" in SRS

so the SRS light lit up - tried all that unplugging and replugging stuff & that didn't work.
took to a place out the back of stevenage called Benington 4x4 what specialises in landys. He put 3 diffierent scanners on it and none of em could see the srs box
So his best guess is that the srs module is foobar.
He gave me the part number YWJ000130 or YWJ000131 but there's no srs module on ebay with that number
this link
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/96405/2827/srs_control_unit_freelander_5a_
suggests the part that I need is YWC000611 but I don't see that anywhere either except at rediculous money (=£300)
Does anyone have the knowledge to point me at the right part for the right price to get me out of Dodge?
The vehicle is 2002 year of manufacture

Any help appreciated as MOT is due in a week or so

Cheers
SImon

I'm wondering why a Landie specialist would try 3 different scanners - surely he'd have a T4 and if that can't see it nothing will. So I'm wondering what type of scanners he was using.

We know a Hawkeye can see it if its working, so anyone close to Stevenage with a Hawkeye?

Might be worth seeing how much a dealer would charge to read the codes.

I don't think its coded or anything - so its definitely the sort of thing you could get from a breakers. I'd be very careful changing it not to set off the bags though

The I930 will also see the SRS ECU, so forum members with those can help out too.

GrumpyGel said:

I'm wondering why a Landie specialist would try 3 different scanners - surely he'd have a T4 and if that can't see it nothing will. So I'm wondering what type of scanners he was using.

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it wasn't cheapie scanners - its those ones that look like a laptop embedded in an F1 steering wheel kinda thing - proper big-boy scanner with all the proprietory software. Sadly I didn't think to ask what it was called but I do recall him telling me how much it cost last year and it was in the thousands. when the most up to date scanner couldn't connect to the srs he pulled out a legacy model and that couldn't connect so he pulled out the previous model to that and that couldn't connect either - hence his conclusion that the srs module is laying on its back with its nipples pointing at the sky.

He has rack after rack of salvaged parts but sadly none that was carrying the right part number

This is getting mission critical so any help from anyone in the stevenage area would be much appreciated

Cheers
Simon

I have two scrap TD4s on my drive, a 2005 and a 2006. Neither had SRS faults. I'll be happy to sell you the SRS box from either one for much less than eBay prices if they're any use to you. PM me if you're interested.

Note: I'm nowhere near you so would have to post said item using Royal Mail.

well, I'm into the guts of her now - centre console is out. That was surprisingly easy. Next is the heater box and all I have to hand is the dreaded Haynes manual to guide me - no need to waste words saying how helpful that is (you know, the "F" in Haynes manual). Just keep repeating the mantra, "Machines don't win - people win" and get a bigger hammer (for the Haynes manual. Picture that Faulty Towers episode - you know the one but swap the car for the manual & the branch for the hammer - well, it helps me )

Cheers
Simon

The Land Rover Rave workshop manual is usually very good at documenting jobs like that. There's info on downloading it here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

GrumpyGel said:

The Land Rover Rave workshop manual is usually very good at documenting jobs like that. There's info on downloading it here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

Click to expand...

thanks for the link - lost my copy of the RAVE manual when my last laptop died.
anyway, I'm nowhere near pulling the heater yet - I somehow managed to miss the single sentence in Haynes that casually mentions I need to remove the facia, and that section points you to pulling the steering wheel and switch cluster - they are off now & I'm just 2 mystery bolts away from pulling the facia.
SMFH
lots of "apprentice marks" and missing fasteners suggests to me that this aint this facia's first rodeo
Cheers
Simon

the facia's out but I ran out of light so the heater box will have to wait till tomorrow - it's a funny feeling seeing it all stripped down and naked - a bit like seeing your mrs in the delivery room if you know what I mean. I don't think I'll feel the same about it ever again.
On the upside, I bumped into an old mate who it turns out is now working at landrover in the spares department - maybe a lorry is going to trundle along the bumpy old road outside my house and an srs module will fall off the back - it's a funny old world init?
Cheers
Simon

Heater box is out - there is an extra bolt right at the back holding it to the firewall that isn't mentioned in the dreaded Haynes - just in case you're thinking of playing this game yourself.
And the srs module is also out - the part code is actually YWC000610 contrary to what the landy spares site says. When my mechanic put the VIN for my car onto the Landy spares site it came back YWJ000130/131.
BTW, the scanner my mechanic uses is Autologic, if that means anything to you?

Anyhow, a YWC000610 from eBay was £15 next day delivery so that's on the way - meanwhile now all the explosives are off the vehicle or disconnected it's time to start continuity testing.
We'll see

Cheers
Simon

Anyone give me info on the CAN bus - wire colours, connector locations etc?
Yes Nodge, I am looking at you (sorry us teachers can't help dipping into the bag o' cliches when we're in an elevated cortisol state)

Cheers
SImon

QBDoctor said:

Anyone give me info on the CAN bus - wire colours, connector locations etc?
Yes Nodge, I am looking at you (sorry us teachers can't help dipping into the bag o' cliches when we're in an elevated cortisol state)

Click to expand...

CAN bus low is Y/N (Yellow/ Brown). CAN bus high is Y/B (Yellow/Black).

Nodge68 said:

CAN bus low is Y/N (Yellow/ Brown). CAN bus high is Y/B (Yellow/Black).

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you're a star mate - thank you

Cheers
Simon

The service part number for the SRS ECU is different to the one fitted to the car as it also comes with replacement bolts and is therefore given a part number for the ECU and the bolts as one.

td4van said:

The service part number for the SRS ECU is different to the one fitted to the car as it also comes with replacement bolts and is therefore given a part number for the ECU and the bolts as one.

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Shows how tricky part numbers can be.

The YWC000610 part number is shown for the SRS unit, but might not be in all instances. Putting this number into where I get my parts from shows that its superseded to YWJ000611 which then comes back as superseded to YWJ000131. If it were a £10 part, that might not matter, but at £300 you're going to be looking at 2nd hand parts. In the 2nd hand market people are going to be quoting the number on the unit of YWC000610 which may not have been found searching for the new part - so it may look like there's not a 2nd hand option available.

So, I'm running continuity checks now. OBD port to SRS plug checked out fine, driver airbag to SRS plug checked out fine - then the drivers side pretensioner leads (disconnected from pretensioner) and there's a dead short. This seemed completely wrong to me so I checked the leads on the passenger side pretensioner and there's a dead short on those too.
To be clear: the SRS module is out, the pretensioners are disconnected so according to the wiring diagram the cables from the srs plug to the pretensioner plugs should be completely isolated - how on earth can there be a dead short on both pairs of leads when they are connected to NOTHING?
This is making me feel very stupid

Cheers
Simon

Poll results are in - it's official: I am stupid.
I was probing the pretensioner on the passenger side and that was always going to show continuity At least the meter didn't push enough current to pop the pretensioner.
probing the loom side showed continuity on the signal lead and no continuity on the return lead - so there is a fault on the loom side just not a dead short.
So, in summary, on the drivers side there IS a dead short and on the passenger side there is a broken lead but that seems to be it. I'm going to put on a side bet that there's F-all wrong with the srs module but all the gubbins had to come out just to get to the loom anyway.

Cheers
Simon

QBDoctor said:

Poll results are in - it's official: I am stupid.
I was probing the pretensioner on the passenger side and that was always going to show continuity At least the meter didn't push enough current to pop the pretensioner.
probing the loom side showed continuity on the signal lead and no continuity on the return lead - so there is a fault on the loom side just not a dead short.
So, in summary, on the drivers side there IS a dead short on on the passenger side there is a broken lead but that seems to be it. I'm going to put on a side bet that there's F-all wrong with the srs module but all the gubbins had to come out just to get to the loom anyway.

Cheers
Simon

Click to expand...

The pre-tensioner with the dead short hasn't fired has it?

Nodge68 said:

The pre-tensioner with the dead short hasn't fired has it?

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How would you tell? there wasn't a bang - nothing moved.
Also, there's a dead short between the +ve supply to the srs plug (green wire) and ground - that definitely should be the case.
So today is loom extraction and repair day with a short intermission to watch Hamilton sulk when he fails to win GP

Cheers
Simon

On some SRS systems when the ecu is unplugged the firing circuits are connected to earth to remove static and prevent unintentional deployment

Not sure if this is the case for Freelander but worth considering before getting carried away!