Freelander 1 Temporary Propshaft Removal

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pwood999

pwood999

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Quick question. If I remove the propshaft to sort the bearings, is it safe to drive with the output flange left in the IRD ? Gotta do this on son's FL1 but he needs to use the car in the meantime.

Thanks,
Pete
 
pwood999 said:
Quick question. If I remove the propshaft to sort the bearings, is it safe to drive with the output flange left in the IRD ? Gotta do this on son's FL1 but he needs to use the car in the meantime.

Thanks,
Pete
Click to expand...
Yes, it's pretty safe to let the drive flanges spin, obviously removing the bolts. ;)

If it's only temporary, then I'd probably not bother with telling the insurance, but if it's more than a few weeks, it's best to let the insurance know that it's currently 2WD. ;)
 
Bearings seem to vary a lot in price ?? (all plus VAT). any suggestions ?
  • Island-4x4 = £14.99 each. (Britpart)
  • Island-4x4 = £34.99 each. (GKN)
  • JGS4x4 U = £21.99 for two (unspecified make)
  • Bearmach = £18.32 each (Bearmach brand ?)
  • Rimmerbros = £36.50 (OEM Quality ?)
 
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Update. Still working on getting the front propshaft removed from VCU. Back one came off with a few mild whacks, but front is being a real challenge. Tried all the usual tricks using a wedge shape cold chisel, and had it soaking in penetrating fluid for a week.

Was wondering about removing the spider joint & then using some kind of puller for the spline removal, but also having trouble shifting the spider bearing cups. They seem to be rusted as well.

Any ideas ?
 
Make sure the chisel bridges both sides of the uj. Adjust the VCU bolt to make it a tight fit then belt it!!

Chisel on one side of UJ won't work.

So put chisel 'through' the uj to bear on both sides.
 
Already been doing that. The chisel is a good fit between the bolt head & both sides of UJ. It simply will not budge. Will try bigger hammer !!
 
There is a risk of breaking the uj casting, never done it but others have. :eek:

Support it on a block of wood so that all shock from impact goes onto bolt head.
Also, check and replace bolt if it looks bent after you have finished, they are available on eBay.
 
Finally got it apart. Yes was previously supporting the yoke, VCU & prop on wood blocks. The solution was 2lb hammer instead of 2lb club, giving slightly more thump. Splines inside the yoke were quite rusty, although VCU splines were clean ?

Cleaned it all up, and installed new bearings. All ready to get fitted back to the car when my son next visits.
 
Had a call from my Son this evening while heading up the M3 home to Langley. Looks like the VCU damper has come apart. Apparently it's appears to have done some damage to the bearing, and he said it's banged against body & exhaust.

Now I have to go to Milton Keynes tomorrow to do another 2WD conversion !! Hopefully no other damage done.

IMG_8472.JPEG
 
pwood999 said:
Had a call from my Son this evening while heading up the M3 home to Langley. Looks like the VCU damper has come apart. Apparently it's appears to have done some damage to the bearing, and he said it's banged against body & exhaust.

Now I have to go to Milton Keynes tomorrow to do another 2WD conversion !! Hopefully no other damage done.

View attachment 306066
Click to expand...
Think most peeps cut them off with an angle grinder.
 
Whilst I agree, I would prefer to check the bearings & VCU, and then refit the prop.

[Update] Look at this today. Bearings & mounts look ok, so we just cut the damper off with an angle grinder !!
 
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