TD5 woes - any bright ideas?

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Does the starter motor turn over?

If not, does it click? If so failed plunger contacts. If it doesn't click, remove the lucar connector, clean contacts and reconnect...
 
Ah, Bennehboy, good to see you here. I enjoyed your TD5 engine rebuild and might be doing the same myself one day. Yes, as discussed earlier, the engine spins freely with the starter. Not much sign of anything coming out of the exhaust. Latest hypothesis is injector seal failure, which would account for the major increase in the sump oil level whilst I've been purging. I think most of the fuel is going into the sump rather than into the cylinders.

What's your latest trouble? Do tell.
 
I've been attempting to rebuild an R380 for many months, broken 2 centre plates in the process (own stupidity), just got another case to use and it's broken my gear puller trying to get the oil seal collar off. No way am I throwing the towel in yet though :D
 
Bennehboy said:
I've been attempting to rebuild an R380 for many months, broken 2 centre plates in the process (own stupidity), just got another case to use and it's broken my gear puller trying to get the oil seal collar off. No way am I throwing the towel in yet though :D
Click to expand...

Have a word with James Martin - gearbox guru (and all round nice guy, but don't tell him I said that, it'll ruin his street cred!!!)
 
Bennehboy said:
I've been attempting to rebuild an R380 for many months, broken 2 centre plates in the process (own stupidity), just got another case to use and it's broken my gear puller trying to get the oil seal collar off. No way am I throwing the towel in yet though :D
Click to expand...

Oh no. Is this something you can just break off and fit another if it can't be shifted?
 
Bennehboy said:
Unfortunately not.
Click to expand...

I'll take your word for it as I've not attempted this job but I have read about people drilling them and cracking them, like people did with old flywheel ring gears. Must be a fiddly job cleaning all the swarf out of the gearbox afterwards though.
 
OK, the longer answer was... unfortunately not if I want it to not be a right old faff and be able to re-use as much of the box as possible :D

Anyhow, good luck with the injector washer swap, some tips:
* grind down the inner side of the short end of a long 6 mm allen key and use that to gently rock the injectors out of their seats (insert it under the bridge of the injector).

* wrap some electrical tape around the injector body to stop the o-rings dropping into the 'valleys' as you fit them. (don't forget to remove it before refitting lol )

* use a small diameter (whichever fits closest to the injector core) deep socket to gently tap the new washers onto the injectors - don't push them on because the washers will distort. There are a couple of types of washer (the genuine ones are the snuggest fit!) and depending on the injector type they will either be a really tight fit or really loose - blob some grease onto the washer if it's loose so it doesn't drop back down the bore when refitting.

* DO NOT force the injectors back into their bores when refitting them, just gently lower them in, then fit the injector clamps. Gradually tighten down the clamps alternating between the bolts, this will drive the injector back into the seat square and should minimise the risk of the injector seats getting cracked.

Hope that helps!
 
Last edited:
Bennehboy said:
OK, the longer answer was... unfortunately not if I want it to not be a right old faff and be able to re-use as much of the box as possible :D

Anyhow, good luck with the injector washer swap, some tips:
* grind down the inner side of the short end of a long 6 mm allen key and use that to gently rock the injectors out of their seats (insert it under the bridge of the injector).

* wrap some electrical tape around the injector body to stop the o-rings dropping into the 'valleys' as you fit them. (don't forget to remove it before refitting lol )

* use a small diameter (whichever fits closest to the injector core) deep socket to gently tap the new washers onto the injectors - don't push them on because the washers will distort. There are a couple of types of washer (the genuine ones are the snuggest fit!) and depending on the injector type they will either be a really tight fit or really loose - blob some grease onto the washer if it's loose so it doesn't drop back down the bore when refitting.

* DO NOT force the injectors back into their bores when refitting them, just gently lower them in, then fit the injector clamps. Gradually tighten down the clamps alternating between the bolts, this will drive the injector back into the seat square and should minimise the risk of the injector seats getting cracked.

Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

Yes I see what you mean about the faff.

Good ideas about the injectors. I am buying an injector removal tool. I know some people succeed with an L shaped bit of metal but as I expect to have TD5s in my life for some time I thought I might as well get the correct implement. Yes, I have genuine/OEM seals and washers on order. People on here have often complained that cheap aftermarket ones haven't solved the problem. So I'll be looking out for tender washers and seats and I'll be very gentle. Mr lump hammer will stay in the shed.
 
Aye good call on the removal tool, the key is to pull them out as straight from the seats as possible - I'm convinced that most cracked seats are down to people bodging them in/out.
 
v8geoff said:
Mates stopped just like yours other day was wire going to stop solenoid
Click to expand...

Thanks. It certainly did feel like something had just switched it off suddenly. On a TD5 I don't have a stop solenoid as such, so its unlikely to be my problem! Current plan is to address the rising oil level by fitting new injector washers and seals and then see if I can get it to fire.
 
Brown said:
Thanks. It certainly did feel like something had just switched it off suddenly. On a TD5 I don't have a stop solenoid as such, so its unlikely to be my problem! Current plan is to address the rising oil level by fitting new injector washers and seals and then see if I can get it to fire.
Click to expand...

Once you've done the washers, leave the rocker cover off and do a few fuel purges - will be obvious if it's still chucking diesel out - fingers crossed that the head ain't cracked!
 
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