TD5 Tuning remap etc?

I had a V8 Disco up to a couple of weeks back, now I am the proud owner of a 110 XS (2005) with about 35k on the clock.
I wasn't expecting a racing car but by j33ze it's slow.
So I am looking at a bit more power and smoothing out the delivery.
So a £400 ish chip upgrade should bring it up from 120bhp tp 150? sounds good, but will changing the intercooler and another 20bhp?

Secondly is changing the intercooler and diy job, what has to come off/ out to do the job?

What mpg am I likey to get cruising at 70/75 ish before and after as I do a few 5/600 round motorway trips?

And I must have a snorkel I prefer the look of the Safaris but are they all pretty much the same?

Tight Fart said:

I had a V8 Disco up to a couple of weeks back, now I am the proud owner of a 110 XS (2005) with about 35k on the clock.
I wasn't expecting a racing car but by j33ze it's slow.
So I am looking at a bit more power and smoothing out the delivery.
So a £400 ish chip upgrade should bring it up from 120bhp tp 150? sounds good, but will changing the intercooler and another 20bhp?

Secondly is changing the intercooler and diy job, what has to come off/ out to do the job?

What mpg am I likey to get cruising at 70/75 ish before and after as I do a few 5/600 round motorway trips?

And I must have a snorkel I prefer the look of the Safaris but are they all pretty much the same?

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take the egr valve off and clean the intercooler out might help a bit .
when you say its slow is it unresponsive all through the throttle range or a bit sperodic?
my throttle senser is faulty and i get sluggish spells, might also be the mass air flow sensor thats at fault.
should be quite nippy
pm ratty he's the td5 hexspert

I had a beer with Ratty tonight, I wouldn't ask him how to change a light bulb !! (must be a different Ratty )

I will blank of the egr valve, are the £35 blanks (TD5 Alive etc) any better than the £5 Ebay jobs any better?

Tight Fart said:

I had a beer with Ratty tonight, I wouldn't ask him how to change a light bulb !! (must be a different Ratty )

I will blank of the egr valve, are the £35 blanks (TD5 Alive etc) any better than the £5 Ebay jobs any better?

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its only a couple of flat bits of metal the cheap 1's should do the job the same
as to ratty he's a mod on this site he's about tonight so look at the who's on line an the bottom of the home page and click on his name then send him a pm

Tight Fart said:

I had a beer with Ratty tonight, I wouldn't ask him how to change a light bulb !! (must be a different Ratty )

I will blank of the egr valve, are the £35 blanks (TD5 Alive etc) any better than the £5 Ebay jobs any better?

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It weren't me. I can change light bulbs all on my own.

But I aint allowed to use tools wivout 'adult' supervision.

Where'd ya live botty burp?

ratty said:

It weren't me. I can change light bulbs all on my own.

But I aint allowed to use tools wivout 'adult' supervision.

Where'd ya live botty burp?

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kingsbridge?:doh:

buckshot said:

kingsbridge?:doh:

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which one.

I'm in Sth Devon but do get upto Epping Forest quite a bit.

Tight Fart said:

I'm in Sth Devon but do get upto Epping Forest quite a bit.

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If your headed Bristol, Glastonbury, Bath direction at any point give me a shout and I'll plug it in for you.

For now, try unplugging the air flow meter. It's located near the air filter housing on the inlet pipe. Try driving it with it disconnected. Is it any better or worse? If it' better you've found your fault. Mine was knackered and made it flat as a pancake to drive.

As Buckshots already said throttle potentiometers are also prone to playing up. Try pressing the pedal down in stages of a quarter of the movement at a time. Does one stage seem to be flat compared to the rest?

ratty said:

If your headed Bristol, Glastonbury, Bath direction at any point give me a shout and I'll plug it in for you.


As Buckshots already said throttle potentiometers are also prone to playing up. Try pressing the pedal down in stages of a quarter of the movement at a time. Does one stage seem to be flat compared to the rest?

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like mine went 8 miles to yeovil last night and back again with a reliant robin 3 cylinder engine under the bonnet , then dropped my mate of at the snooker club.
when i drove home it had been changed to a F1 engine

buckshot said:

like mine went 8 miles to yeovil last night and back again with a reliant robin 3 cylinder engine under the bonnet , then dropped my mate of at the snooker club.
when i drove home it had been changed to a F1 engine

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Yer mate musta been big boned.

ECU may be going to limp mode because of a dodgy sensor somewhere. Check your ECU error codes.
TD5Alive EGR kit includes a casting to replace the whole EGR valve assembly. eBay kits are just a blanking plate (you can make these yourself) leaving the valve assembly in line and restricting air flow.
Bigger intercooler will always give more power but dont know about 20%. Easy to change yourself if you can undo a few bolts and hoses. Easier to take out rad and intercooler as one piece.

Thanks for the offer Ratty.
I don't think it's going into limp mode, but won't disconecting the air flow meter put it into
limp mode?
Can you remove the intercooler without disturbing the cooling system? (here so many tales of getting air in the system after a drain down)

Tight Fart said:

Can you remove the intercooler without disturbing the cooling system? (here so many tales of getting air in the system after a drain down)

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I've tried twice do do it but gave up after a few hours. There is just not enough room to get the intercooler off of the radiator mountings in situ.
I suppose if you removed both wings it might be possible but you'd have to unbolt the rad to get to the wing bolts. Its quicker to remove the rad.
I've never had trouble bleeding the cooling system. Fill slowly and use the bleed vents and if needs be loosen one of the heater hoses to get the air out. Run the engine at fast idle with the pressure cap off to help with venting.

If you disconnect the air flow meter the ECU will apply a basic mapping which may result in an improvement. If the air flow meter is faulty it means the ECU is trying to correct a fueling problem that does not exist. Dont forget that you've also got inlet manifold air temperature and pressure sensors which also effect the fueling.
You can see if the air flow meter is working by taking it off and looking at the heating element. With it plugged in to the loom switch the ignition on and see if it glows red hot. Dont do it for too long though as normally the air flow keeps the element at about 200 deg C and with no air flow it will overheat.
The sensor works by trying to maintain a fixed temperature which depends on airflow and air temp over the element. The faster the air flow the higher the voltage needed to maintain the target temerature. It is the voltage that the ECU measures to adjust its fuel mappings.

Just had a thought. I do that sometimes you know.
Have you played with the boost setting on the turbo? Tried to turn up the wick?
If you take it above 1 bar the ECU applies a "get you home" mapping until the ignition is reset. Overboost and the ECU does it again. Symptoms are lack of top end power and reduced throttle response. You can get a gadget that fools the ECU and then you can wind the turbo up to about 1.4 bar. Got mine from Gary at TD5Alive and my turbo runs about 1.25 bar at full chat.

I've just done a 600 round trip and maybe it's running as it should (or was designed) cruises quite happily at around 70/75, and returned about 25mpg.
It's a bit like a posh Sherpa van with the handbrake stiking in my leg.

ratty said:

Yer mate musta been big boned.

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You beat me to that one Ratty

jzcktv said:

You beat me to that one Ratty

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snigger

ratty said:

snigger

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well lets just say he makes you look tall and not so vertically challenged !