D2 Td5 Coolant Temperature Not Right!

Hi all,
Hopefully someone has had this before and can help.
1999 D2 Td5 I think 10p but for the life of me I can't remember.
Temp guage on the dash will not go to 'normal' unless I'm driving on the motorway for approx 5 miles (60-70mph) or I am doing some 'spirited' driving.

It raises to just above the bottom white line and remains there.
Driving around town or even on B roads in traffic it never alters up or down.
When it does raise eventually after motorway driving it stays perfectly normal until slowed down, i.e coming off at a junction it is almost immediately back down and stays there.

The problem started after Changing the water pump(britpart xs) due to a leak, while I was in there I thought I would also do the thermostat (genuine) definitely fitted the correct way.

Flushed out best as possible with hosepipe.

Bled as per RAVE and the extra bit with holding revs over 1500 for the valve to open
I have done this 3 times.
I have now done 400+ miles with it like this stopping to release bleed screw periodically incase of any trapped air locks - no air escapes just a steady stream of coolant. I believe that would eliminate any air lock.

No leaks, no loss of coolant or excessive pressure.
Heaters are warm but may not be as warm as they should be, I rarely use them .

Uploaded a photo of said temp guage.

Please help. **** taking welcome of you feel the need

Matt

Sadly the obvious question is "Is the albeit new stat actually closing?"
If you still have the old one, why not stick it back in and see if things improve.

Stanleysteamer said:

Sadly the obvious question is "Is the albeit new stat actually closing?"
If you still have the old one, why not stick it back in and see if things improve.

Click to expand...

Thanks Stanleysteamer
I removed and tested with hose pipe and it only let a dribble through as you would expect...
Matt

Ukgrease_monkey said:

Thanks Stanleysteamer
I removed and tested with hose pipe and it only let a dribble through as you would expect...
Matt

Click to expand...

Well, will be interested to see what the problem is.
I have known a temp gauge under read, because the sensor was in an air bubble, but you do seem to have done what you can to get rid of airlocks.
Coincidentally I replaced the water pump on mine last Easter and also had a heck of a job getting rid of the air. I didn't keep bleeding it after doing all you are supposed to do, as you have done. I just kept an eye on the level in the tank and kept filling it until it stopped dropping.
At least it isn't overheating.
If you are totally sure the stat is in the right way round then I'd just keep driving around topping it up if necessary, it may come good. Otherwise it seems like a coincidence but could the sensor have gone fubar?

Mines almost identical after changing the stat and rad.

Motorway driving hits 85°C and sits happy.

Yet a 25minute drive to work, at 30, 50, 70 early in the morning never got above 65°C

Yet my 110 was always at 80°C before half way to work.

So im doing as the above, keep bleeding, keep filling

bankz5152 said:

Mines almost identical after changing the stat and rad.

Motorway driving hits 85°C and sits happy.

Yet a 25minute drive to work, at 30, 50, 70 early in the morning never got above 65°C

Yet my 110 was always at 80°C before half way to work.

So im doing as the above, keep bleeding, keep filling

Click to expand...

In my case, having changed the pump, etc, I drove it, towing a trailer with a Citroen C3 on it 550 miles into southwestern France. In the end it was fine. no overheating, nothing. So I think it just took a few miles to get rid of the last of the air.

Hi, an airlock would affect cooling not warming up, you really need to check live data and compare with the engine's temperature measured with a laser thermometer, or at least use a themometer on the head and if it shows above 75*C while the gauge is still not at the middle replace the coolant temp sensor cos it's probably fubar, the gauge is supposed to go to the middle once the ECT goes above 70*C... also try to stop the viscous fan with a rolled up newspaper 1 minute after cold start, if you can't the coupling is locked solid hence it will warm up very hard

.

Welcome to the forum and the headaches of D2 ownership.