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TD5 - Red Battery Light Stays On, Despite New Battery Being Fitted and Running Well!

Discussion in 'Land Rover Discovery' started by rjsdavis, Feb 17, 2011.

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  1. rjsdavis

    rjsdavis Active Member

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    Hi to all

    Got a slightly odd problem.

    Yesterday, my wife got stranded in the TD5, where on a short journey she experienced firstly two of the yellow air suspension lights lighting up, then a minute or two later, pretty much all of the lights on the dashboard lighting up and a loss of power. This was then followed by the lights dimming on the dashboard and then her headlamps going off (! - it was at night) and a massive loss of power. She limped it at 5mph to its destination and then the engine could not be restarted - and when the key was turned you'd just get that "fast clicking" from the starter motor.

    I got to her with the jump leads - fed some power in for about 30 seconds, and she started up immediately with no lights flashing on the dashboard. It was immediately obvious that the battery was virtually dead. Left the jumps connected for about 6-7 minutes to feed in some more juice, and then drove the TD5 home (about 3.5 miles) with no problems. Left the TD5 on trickle charge overnight and drove the following morning - she drove fine, but got the battery tested - it failed and later that day got a brand new Bosch S4 Silver unit and installed it.

    Shortly before the battery was changed, the red "battery" light on the dashboard had popped on and stayed on. I assumed that this was simply indicating that the old was indeed cooked and required attention. However, since the change, it has stayed on - the new Bosch job has been trickle charged and it is completely full. The TD5 drives really well, and is much perkier under throttle to 50mph than she was before with the old battery - and there are no other lights flashing.

    As far as I can tell, the car is running fine, but am concerned that the red battery light is still on - is this some sort of stored fault code that requires a computer clearance? I've taken on a very good run - multiple speeds / conditions from fast lanes to 80mph motorway and all were fine. Revved her upto 3.5-4,000 revs, and no budging from the red battery light......

    Any ideas of what's causing this? As far as I'm concerned she's running relatively sweetly, but am worried that she's either not charging the new battery or is draining inappropriately and the wife will end up stranded again.....?
     
  2. discool

    discool Well-Known Member

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    The light will go on only if the alternator is not charging the battery.
    Do an alternator output test to check if the alternator is charging with your multimeter also check battery lead connections and alternator drive belt, a loose belt will cause the alternator to undercharge and trip the battery light.
    If you can't carry out the above a garage can.
     
  3. oldskool

    oldskool Well-Known Member

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    That will almost definatly be your alternator matey.
     
  4. ratty

    ratty I'm not special I'm limited edition Global Moderator

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    As above ^^^^^:)
     
  5. The Mad Hat Man

    The Mad Hat Man Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    so yu changed the battery without having the battery or alternator checked first? :doh: :rolleyes:
     
  6. T1G UP

    T1G UP New Member

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    take it and get it tested. if you've a dicky altinator it ill cook the battery
     
  7. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Check fuse F24(10A) in the interior fusebox
     
  8. rjsdavis

    rjsdavis Active Member

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    Thanks Sierrafery - will do this this evening!

    What does this fuse control?
     
  9. rjsdavis

    rjsdavis Active Member

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    Thanks Mad Hat - but to be fair, I did describe in my original post that it was tested by a Motor Factor and the alternator was apparently charging, and the battery tester came back very much in the red and knackered. I would never have dumped 100 notes on a new battery without checking!

    Everything else (everything that actually happened) all point to a duff battery as well. And there was no red battery light coming on even the entire car died with next no power.

    It would be a surprise to me if both had gone, the alternator shortly after the batter giving up the ghost, but I guess you never know.
     
  10. rjsdavis

    rjsdavis Active Member

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    Thanks discool

    I know that the battery lead connections are tight - I did them myself, and the connection is very good and the bolts are tight. I'll check the drive belt when I get home later.

    In respect of the multimeter, where do you put the clips? One on each of the battery terminals with the engine running? Electrics were never my strongest suit, but this seems like it would be confused with current coming out of the battery, or when the engine is running is it only going into the battery? I would have thought it would be a combination of the two....

    It would be dead useful if you could say where the clips should be so that I test it correctly....

    Thanks everso.

    Richard :)
     
  11. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    "With the ignition switch in position II, the feed from fuse 24 is connected from
    the passenger compartment fusebox, through header C0294 LHD/
    CO287 RHD, to connector interface C0448-4/C0162-4 on a W wire. From the
    connector interface the feed is connected on a WG wire to the
    alternator/generator. This feed protects the alternator/generator from short
    circuit damage should a wiring fault occur."


     
  12. rjsdavis

    rjsdavis Active Member

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    Thanks!

    Will check them all to be safe, as I'm aware that sometimes fuses are cross-purpose and multiple fuses can control multiple systems. I really, really hope it's a fuse......
     
  13. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    U dont have to do that on a Td5, just F24,....then disconnect battery leads and check battery voltage....reconnect then check voltage again with running engine..it must be greater than the disconnected battery(>14V).....if it's not that way check voltage on fusible link FL1(150A) in the engine bay fusebox.... if still no joy then find a new alternator.
     
  14. rjsdavis

    rjsdavis Active Member

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    Ok - checked all of the fuses. Found that was blown in the engine bay, but this related to the headlamp washers.

    F24 was fine, as were all of the other fuses underneath the steering wheel. Then tried a voltmeter on the battery....

    With everything off, the voltmeter registered a steady 12.9V. When the engine was running, this dropped to 11.95V and again was steady. I'm assuming that the alternator is defo dead, and probably died trying to charge the old battery that was mullered too?
     
  15. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Yes, in this case u need a new alternator....or get it this one refurbished.
     
  16. rjsdavis

    rjsdavis Active Member

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    Thanks very much for all of the pointers....
     
  17. oldskool

    oldskool Well-Known Member

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    May i bring your attention to posts 3 and 4, if you listen to peeps who know and not one's that can copy and paste you will sort problems a lot quicker.
     
  18. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Why are you are impish m8:(?.....i wish u never replace an alternator and after that realize it was a short circuit or wiring damage....happened to others:focus:.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2011
  19. OldIrishWulf

    OldIrishWulf Well-Known Member

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    You might be able to help me with a problem with my MISSis fiesta . Alarm and hazards are going off when door is unlocked .
    The fob on the key dunt work ,hasn't for a long time. I think the imobiliser battery was keeping the code for the key and is now dead .

    I have removed the door card its a late 2001 model .
     
  20. paul_c

    paul_c New Member

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    If the battery light doesn't go out when engine running, you can be 95% certain its a faulty alternator. To be 99.99% sure, take it to an auto electrician who can do a 'spin test' of the alternator, ie he tests it off the vehicle. He'll probably also be able to rebuild it at a lower cost than a replacement alternator. By all means, you could buy one off a scrappy etc, but there's no guarantee of its longevity.

    A check of the relevant fuse(s) is always worth doing anyway, since its quick and easy.
     
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