TD5 Front Right Sensor Electrical Failure Warning

Hi, I am a new user in terms of registration although have followed the site for various stories and issues I have encountered previous. However, this problem has me stumped despite similar stories being discussed both on UK & US forums.

It started with the usual Three Amigos plus handbrake warning light....

I got it scanned at an independent Auto Electrician who felt a new near side front hub would do the trick which I then had fitted. It didn't work so we had it scanned once again having reset it first - the three amigos came straight back on.

We had it rescanned and it was thought that the WABCO bx ending number 150 needed replacing but having spoken to another spares provider, they suggested having it scanned on dedicated Land Rover hardware which I did, having first re-set it again.

I took it to a great LR Specialist who was very helpful and he firstly cleared the codes which removed all lights except ABS which needed to be cleared on a run above 5mph - the minute I reversed out of the yard, the ABS stayed on but was joined by the TC, HDC and Handbrake lights.

It now reads as per the attached...

I have been told to make sure the new hub has been tightened to 490 NM's but in terms of the way forward, I am completely stumped and circa £300 out of pocket already....

By the way, my local LR Dealer tried to tell me that putting it on their scanner took 1.5 hrs at £95 plus VAT PER HOUR.......

I am tearing my hair out with this and would be very grateful if anyone has a more certain diagnosis to help me narrow down the exact problem/cure.....?

i always mix these terms ...but n/s isnt it LEFT??? ... cos if it is they replaced the wrong hub. ...anyway if i'm wrong read this before u go further http://www.landroverclubvi.com/uplo...warning_lamp_illumination_troubleshooting.pdf at least u'll know if u hear some bollox

Hi

On a UK car the front right is the off side not the near side.

So it looks like you've had the wrong hub replaced.

As a correction to my original post.....

Having run out of brain power at the end of the weekend, I mistakenly referred to the 'near side' i.e. passenger side when in fact, the problem has always been with the offside front. Apologies for the error and for temporarily misleading users.

I have therefore, replaced the correct hub but it would seem that this has been unnecessary in view of same fault code appearing after its replacement.

I am just about to read the first reply more thoroughly......

no worryes .... go through that link i gave you then

Ok here are a few point points in no particular order:

1. Doing a diagnostic scan on the ABS braking system should take about 10mins ! So the first thing is that they lied to you.

To understand better: the cars electronic systems are split up into a number of different partions, the ABS braking system being one of them. Traction Control and Hill descent work off the same ABS system, so for them to be able to function correctly, the ABS must function OK.

So you don't need to go through all the myriad of systems to ascertain the problem, it lies in the ABS component.

Also, always always ask for a price to have anything done by any garage - if they say they can't then they don't know their job! Of course there can be surprises, but not with a diagnostic run. Also bear in mind that the electronic diagnosis can only give the garage so much info, if they are a specialist LR garage, they should know the primary causes for the Three Amigos, which are:
a. Faulty/chafed wiring between wheel sensor and abs ECU;
b. Faulty sensor;
c. Worn hub causing the sensor to be unable to read properly;
d. Faulty shuttle valve in the ABS modulator.

All these issues should be well-known for anyone working on Discovery II, if they don't know them, walk away. All they will do is to keep replacing parts until they resolve the problem by luck, rather than judgement.

Why did the first garage replace the hub instead of just the sensor? Did they not know that it is perfectly possible to electronically check the wiring and the sensor by revolving the wheel slowly and watching the electrical output?


2. Learn how to do the work yourself, with a resource like this forum and a hand-held LR-dedicated terminal such as Hawkeye or Nano EVO you could do all the diagnosis yourself, instead of piecemeal parts replacement. Sure it's costs to set up, but not hugely and even in the short term you wil win. PLus you learn so much more that IF you have to put the car into a garage, they won't be able to bull**** you.

Good luck

Dave

Thank you all for your advice, it is very much appreciated. Unfortunately, I cannot do anything about replacing just the sensor now as I have fitted and paid for a brand new replacement hub with new sensor already. Assuming that this is fitted correctly which I believe it is, then this most likely rules out a fault hub/sensor and suggests that points A and D above could be potential runners?

My mechanic said that the ABS is not working at the moment if that helps to narrow it down further?

blt181 said:

Thank you all for your advice, it is very much appreciated. Unfortunately, I cannot do anything about replacing just the sensor now as I have fitted and paid for a brand new replacement hub with new sensor already. Assuming that this is fitted correctly which I believe it is, then this most likely rules out a fault hub/sensor and suggests that points A and D above could be potential runners?

My mechanic said that the ABS is not working at the moment if that helps to narrow it down further?

Click to expand...

The ABS wouldn't be working as there is a fault on the system. Do bare in mind that the std. brakes will still work fine, it's just the anti-lock function that's out of order.

The purpose of the correct diagnostic device is to narrow down the possible problem areas. So if it were me, I would be using the terminal to run continuity checks on the wiring to all wheel sensors & checking the shuttle valve operation. The car is very good at telling you what's wrong, but only if you ask it the rights questions!!!!

Dave

sensors can easily be fitted wrong remove it and try without o ring ,ive had o rings and bent securing tabs give issues by not letting it seat quite far enough in ,gap is critical on them ,obviously if it works refit oring etc correctly

Dear All

I can confirm that this problem has finally been sorted by an Auto Electrician who happens to be red hot with Land Rovers! He had done something for me in the past but I got a main dealer to look at it first - they said it was an ABS ECU and they wanted a fortune to look at it plus a huge amount for the replacement WABCO ECU. I happnede to know someone with a working ECU which I tried and surprise surprise, it made no difference so had I gone ahead at the dealers, I would have been out of pocket by a huge amount and still have the same problem!

I then got back in touch with the aforementioned auto electrician who said that he had come across this before and the first thing he would have checked the hub/sensor which obviously I had already done. He then ordered a new modified ABS Wiring Loom from the dealers and fitted it before trialling the vehicle to make sure the fault didn't occur again. Thankfully, it didn't and his bill - just £250 which given the hassle & expense I had already had with the car, I was relatively thrilled with!

It has been brilliant since and if anyone is struggling with a problem which the very helpful users on here can help sort, let me know and I can point them in the right direction of the auto sparky with a recommendation.

Once again, many thanks for all your help on here and taking the time to point me in the right direction.

Regards

BT

Keep in mind, there is a SLABS recall for the Discovery 2.
I had mine replaced with no payment on the main stealership.
File attached.