TD5 EGR Blanking Plate Fitting - My Tips

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Got my de egr kit from TD5 Alive when I went for a stainless exhaust system if you go on the web they have how to do it in the downloads section.I was talking to one of the lads that work there and he had a look at my motor and said the de egr and de cat was the two best things to do to the td5 motor.Mine dont have a cat in the exhaust system 2001 model and he also told me one improvement I could make was change the intercooler hoses. He said even if you dont get silicone hoses get some off a later facelift model as the walls are a lot stiffer so dont constrict as much and you get the full amount of cool air into the system.
 
Blanked off my EGR yesterday with a kit from Cheviot 4x4.. Bit of a chew on but ok.. soaked bottom bolt in WD for a few hours, defo helped.. As well as the two little pipes which need to be blanked off i failed to work out that my egr pipe also fitted to the braking system vacuum pipe.. which i didn't think to blank off, till after i took it for a test drive! yep, no brakes.. sorted now though and feels beeter and more responsive to drive.. ;)
 
Fitted very easily and came with comprehensive instructions from ebay all for £4.50. It feels smoother and more responsive to drive already, but I have yet to see how far the diesel goes!
 
Has anyone got any tips for removing rounded allen bolts? I'm doing the EGR mod on my Discovery EU3 and the allen bolt below the top hose, just under the A/C compressor is rounded. What would happen if i left that and just blanked the oother end of the heat exchanger, and removed the metal pipe along with the EGR value. Would there be a build up of pressure inside the heat exchanger? Any ideas, i would be grateful.
 
Has anyone got any tips for removing rounded allen bolts? I'm doing the EGR mod on my Discovery EU3 and the allen bolt below the top hose, just under the A/C compressor is rounded. What would happen if i left that and just blanked the other end of the heat exchanger, and removed the metal pipe along with the EGR value. Would there be a build up of pressure inside the heat exchanger? Any ideas, i would be grateful.


If there is access, use a sharp fine tooth hacksaw blade to saw a slot across it, then an impact driver should see it out.

The fact the hex head has rounded suggests the bolt metal has softened over time due to the heat / cool of driving and parking up.

It is always a good idea with these bolts to rap them sharply INWARDS 50 to 100 times (OK, who is counting?) because that will usually loosen all the rust and crap even on the threads allowing the bolts to come loose more easily. Use WD40 or similar during the whole operation. Take care not to hit the bolt heads so much or so hard you can't get the Allen-key into the head though.
 
Has anyone got any tips for removing rounded allen bolts? I'm doing the EGR mod on my Discovery EU3 and the allen bolt below the top hose, just under the A/C compressor is rounded. What would happen if I left that and just blanked the other end of the heat exchanger, and removed the metal pipe along with the EGR value. Would there be a build up of pressure inside the heat exchanger? Any ideas, I would be grateful ... cheers, Nick
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What would happen if i left that and just blanked the other end of the heat exchanger, and removed the metal pipe along with the EGR valve. Would there be a build up of pressure inside the heat exchanger? Any ideas, i would be grateful.


That would do the job as a last resort, but it would be better blocked at the manifold.

The first thing to do right now is find the two vacuum pipes at the valve end of the EGR. There is one fitted to each of the two capsules.

Take them off. Just take them right off the capsules.

Fine a piece of solid plastic or wire (I used an inch of fencing wire with the ends rounded off) that is a nice fit in the ends of the two hoses, and plug one hose onto each end of the wire / plastic, thus blocking the hoses.

The EGR is now totally disabled, just like that.

Even after removing the EGR complete, you should still block both of these hose ends, and that is as neat a way of doing it as any.
 
Bought the kit from TD5 Alive but had trouble with the 5mm allen head bolts that hold the EGR pipes on the block and heat exchanger. One was rounded and although the other 5mm bolts came out it was precarious. I used a torx bit (T30) which was a snug fit in the allen bolts and felt more solid. It even bit on the rounded bolt without a slip. In future on all allen head bolts I'll used the appropriate torx bit.

Not had chance to give it a run yet but agree it's a worthwhile mod and I'm looking forward to giving it a good run soon.
 
I´ve also blanked it but didn´t feel much difference. I´ve also made the blanking plate myself by using the gasket to cut out the plate from a copper sheet (1mm thickness) and drilled the two holes for the screws.
 
I'm fitting my blanking plate this week. Is it easy enough to flush the intercooler? I assume you use coolant to do this? I'm such a newb.
 
I'm fitting my blanking plate this week. Is it easy enough to flush the intercooler? I assume you use coolant to do this? I'm such a newb.

Nope you can clean it with paraffin / petrol any solvent thingy ... rinse well and leave to dry THOROUGHLY ... then refit....
 
Just a thought but why are you wanting to flush the intercooler? It's not at all associated with the EGR operation.
Well, I'm a total novice so I was just going on the comments above. I assumed that as I was grotting about the engine bay, I may as well do a bit of housework?
 
Well, I'm a total novice so I was just going on the comments above. I assumed that as I was grotting about the engine bay, I may as well do a bit of housework?
It's absolutely OK to do it from the perspective of general preventative maintenance, but it is a fair bit of work to get it out, to clean.
 
MAF sensor fitted in seconds. Made a massive difference to the car. Manifold bolts on the EGR appear to have welded themselves to the car so my blanking kit has been put to one side for now.
 
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