TD5 Crankshaft Damper pulley

Recently noticed a kind of double clunk when my engine stops, and the jockey pulley seems to be bouncing a bit, so today I put on a new tensioner unit, but the clunk is still there and I noticed I can turn the belt forwards and back which moves the grooved outer part of the pulley but not the crankshaft.
I think the pulley is shot.
Replacements seem to be a big spread of prices from this one at £79 claiming a 5 year warranty:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crank-Sha...477880?hash=item1c8e89c538:g:0qMAAOSwkepZkxUe

Bearmach ones from £250 to this at £140 : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...660615?hash=item3f83d42f07:g:irYAAOSwDJlZlulc

And Island offer one at £125 which is Britpart but the number is LHG100580, Now I recall James Martin mentioning that the Britpart bits with a G are genuine parts and better.
Anyone have any recommendations or useful input?

Never used them, or know anyone who has, but is also an alternative.

http://www.td5pulleysandtdiboostpins.co.uk/

Cheers

Ah, I think the G needs to be at the end for it to be a genuine one, rather than embedded in the part number!

neilly said:

Never used them, or know anyone who has, but is also an alternative.

http://www.td5pulleysandtdiboostpins.co.uk/

Cheers

Click to expand...

Never seen that one before,, just wonder if it is a bit like the solid flywheels which are sold for the TD5 I hear they make thinks shake a bit.

Brown said:

Ah, I think the G needs to be at the end for it to be a genuine one, rather than embedded in the part number!

Click to expand...

Yes that seems to ring a bell,
I would have flagged James but I cant work out how you do that .

Wouldn't want to risk a solid "damper", cos its not a damper anymore!
Got mine from Turners couple of years ago.
https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/lhg100580-damper-crankshaft-c2x20634759

markomate2 said:

Wouldn't want to risk a solid "damper", cos its not a damper anymore!
Got mine from Turners couple of years ago.
https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/lhg100580-damper-crankshaft-c2x20634759

Click to expand...

Cheers Mark
That's a good price I think I may go for that one, put my trust in Turner

Ordered one plus bolt and shaft seal should be here tomorrow.
I am thnking of pulling the radiator out to get access with my impact gun I don't have any angle iron or a monster torque wrench, also might change the water pump while I'm in there it has started to weep ever so slightly.

Planning to do this at the weekend.
I just wondered if anyone else has done it and what they did about tightening it up? I did plan to take out the rad and do some other stuff at the same time but I need the Landy soon so it would be nice to get it done quick.
Obviously quite a special torque wrench is needed and I wondered if anyone has managed to hire one.
My alternative is to take out the rad then whip it off with my impact gun, then tighten the bolt in the new one with the gun which can hit 780 Nm so need to take care

You can always use a breaker bar and calculate where you need to stand for your weight if you really get in a bind, if you remove the rad. ( assuming on the TD5 Fender you have direct access to the Dog bolt).

Cheers

neilly said:

You can always use a breaker bar and calculate where you need to stand for your weight if you really get in a bind, if you remove the rad. ( assuming on the TD5 Fender you have direct access to the Dog bolt).

Cheers

Click to expand...

I did wonder about that, but I only have a 1/2" breaker bar I think it would be up to its limit at 460 Nm
Wondered about getting a 3/4" bar for the job.
I keep thinking about the impact gun If I don't sit there rattling it for 5 minutes it should get it pretty damned tight without busting anything, its a big bolt and I hope its high tensile.

raywin said:

I keep thinking about the impact gun If I don't sit there rattling it for 5 minutes it should get it pretty damned tight without busting anything, its a big bolt and I hope its high tensile.

Click to expand...

Yeah, my concern is the oooppps factor if you do over-tighten or shear something.
3/4 breaker bar is a jolly nice thing to have for those real tight jobs.

Cheers

raywin said:

Planning to do this at the weekend.
I just wondered if anyone else has done it and what they did about tightening it up? I did plan to take out the rad and do some other stuff at the same time but I need the Landy soon so it would be nice to get it done quick.
Obviously quite a special torque wrench is needed and I wondered if anyone has managed to hire one.
My alternative is to take out the rad then whip it off with my impact gun, then tighten the bolt in the new one with the gun which can hit 780 Nm so need to take care

Click to expand...

thats how i do them 1/2 inch battery gun to undo and retighten with stud lock on the threads, as long as its very tight a torque wrench isnt needed,and no huge forces put through or to counter act as you would with a bar

jamesmartin said:

thats how i do them 1/2 inch battery gun to undo and retighten with stud lock on the threads, as long as its very tight a torque wrench isnt needed,and no huge forces put through or to counter act as you would with a bar

Click to expand...

Thanks James, I felt that would do it, I have a fantastic 1/2" impact gun which should take it off fine.
In the past I have managed to bust studs using a 3/4" drive CP gun but looking at the retaining bolt and the fine thread I think it would take something on the Richter Scale to shear it or pull the thread
You have also helped in my debate as to putting some locking compound on it I will put some medium strength stuff on to help it hold.

Well done it, 1/2" gun took it off but it was dammed tight, took a while before it gave up and the socket was pretty warm, and looks like it's been well used now.
Old pully had separated from the rubber on the outer diameter.
Fitted a new seal and tightened it up with the gun (charged battery first) put some thread lock on it.
Rebuild was the reverse of strip down, filled up the coolant and ran it.
Sounds loads better and no longer makes the double clunk when the engine stops.