Td5 boosts then dies I each gear.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Rufiopb

Rufiopb

Member
Posts
67
Hi all,
My 1999 td5 defender 90 is lacking in power at higher rpms in each gear. If i put my foot down in any gear, the turbo kicks in and it pulls lovely, then the power just dies after about 4seconds of boost. I change gear and it comes alive again then dies. This happens in each gear.
The car has a straight through exhaust (it has run fine with this before), egr has been blanked off and I've unplugged the maf to see if it is faulty. However none seem to have solved the problem.
Any ideas what could be the problem?
As is I said it pulls well until mid/higher rpm power just goes.

Thanks for help
Rufio
 
Hi Rufio,

Any chance you can get it on live running diagnostics to see what the engine systems are showing?
Have you played with the wastegate rod?
Did this problem start suddenly, or is it something that has been there after a mod or change?

Cheers
 
install a boost gauge you might be over boosting in the higher rpm range ..
ps check for any leaks on the signal lines going to the waste gate.... pressure check waste gate diaphragm
 
neilly said:
Any chance you can get it on live running diagnostics to see what the engine systems are showing?
Have you played with the wastegate rod?
Did this problem start suddenly, or is it something that has been there after a mod or change?
Click to expand...
The previous owner said he has never had this problem before. I havnt done any mods to the engine since. I havnt played with the waste gate rod as if yet. Will this reduce the turbo psi power if I shorten it?

There is a landy specialist down the road in Salisbury but thought I'd try any suggestions first.

Thanks.
 
ozzyboydeano said:
install a boost gauge you might be over boosting in the higher rpm range ..
ps check for any leaks on the signal lines going to the waste gate.... pressure check waste gate diaphragm
Click to expand...

Thanks yes installing a boost gauge is definatly a good shout. I reckon the guage will show boost then suddenly lack of.
To lower the boost would that just mean adjusting the waste gate?

Thanks
 
It does sound like overboost,

If you can find someone with a nanocom locally then you could get it plugged in and see what the readouts show for the time when the engine cuts power.

or do as the Kiwi said above.

Cheers.
 
How many threads are showing on the wastegate?

Normally 13 threads are visible, reducing the threads visible will increase the pressure that the wastegate opens.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
How many threads are showing on the wastegate?

Normally 13 threads are visible, reducing the threads visible will increase the pressure that the wastegate opens.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Ah I see. So the more threads showing equals less boost.
 
No need to play with the rod if the car went well then this symptom occured ...it's the wastegate modulator gone(if fitted) or split boost hose between the intercooler and wastegate actuator valve, shot valve, stuck wategate... check thsese out
 
sierrafery said:
No need to play with the rod if the car went well then this symptom occured ...it's the wastegate modulator gone(if fitted) or split boost hose between the intercooler and wastegate actuator valve, shot valve, stuck wategate... check thsese out
Click to expand...

Ah ok I'll check these parts out. As speaking to a friend when he gave it a drive believes it's not over boosting as the lr feels normal , and won't clear even if you lift off a bit.
 
sierrafery said:
No need to play with the rod if the car went well then this symptom occured ...it's the wastegate modulator gone(if fitted) or split boost hose between the intercooler and wastegate actuator valve, shot valve, stuck wategate... check thsese out
Click to expand...
That makes sense, it sounds like the waste gate is opening and loosing the boost rather than modulating to maintain the right pressure. I connected my compressor up to the waste gate actuator through a pressure regulator (it was built on to the compressor) , you can slowly build up the pressure and watch the waste gate operate, I know not everyone has a compressor but if someone might volunteer to help you might be able to test the actuator.
I also bought a glycerine filled gauge on t bay and teed it into the actuator connection then fed it through the window into the cab so you can see the boost level while driving.
Eventually I fitted a gauge in the dash it was pretty cheap but works fine.

Found it
 
Last edited:
If overboost is ruled out the second suspect is low fuel pressure, it happens that the HP stage of the pump to fail then on LP it has limited power
 
neilly said:
It does sound like overboost,

If you can find someone with a nanocom locally then you could get it plugged in and see what the readouts show for the time when the engine cuts power.

or do as the Kiwi said above.

Cheers.
Click to expand...
how does not sound like over boost ?
I have seen this even on mine some times the ecu is quick to detect depending on engine load normally this resets its self.... when it bunny hops and engine surges the ecu has then decided not to restore power has it has happened mutable times in a curtain amount of time
ps English born and bread
moved to Australia away from ****witts
 
neilly said:
What?, please go back and read what I wrote.

Cheers
Click to expand...
my bad..... my old age my eyes are not the same I thought you mentioned its not an over boost hence why I asked why do you you think its not........I hold my hands up and do apologise

but please don't call me a KIWI either
 
Last edited:
raywin said:
That makes sense, it sounds like the waste gate is opening and loosing the boost rather than modulating to maintain the right pressure. I connected my compressor up to the waste gate actuator through a pressure regulator (it was built on to the compressor) , you can slowly build up the pressure and watch the waste gate operate, I know not everyone has a compressor but if someone might volunteer to help you might be able to test the actuator.
I also bought a glycerine filled gauge on t bay and teed it into the actuator connection then fed it through the window into the cab so you can see the boost level while driving.
Eventually I fitted a gauge in the dash it was pretty cheap but works fine.

Found it
Click to expand...
this is where many people go wrong installing a boost gauge
installing the boost gauge at the actuator signal lines is not the correct pressure that your engine sees that the intake manifold will see ...
this can be misleading thinking that your @ 18 + psi pressure ..but your manifold is only seeing 14 to 15 psi hence why is the MAP sensor located on the intake manifold
 
Rufiopb said:
Ah ok I'll check these parts out. As speaking to a friend when he gave it a drive believes it's not over boosting as the lr feels normal , and won't clear even if you lift off a bit.
Click to expand...
please elaborate it wont clear does the engine restore power once switched off and on again ?
 
Last edited:
ozzyboydeano said:
this is where many people go wrong installing a boost gauge
installing the boost gauge at the actuator signal lines is not the correct pressure that your engine sees that the intake manifold will see ...
this can be misleading thinking that your @ 18 + psi pressure ..but your manifold is only seeing 14 to 15 psi hence why is the MAP sensor located on the intake manifold
Click to expand...
It's true that any restriction will cause a pressure drop when the air is flowing, but the restriction of the intercooler rad is not excessive and what I have seen comparing the boost gauge to the Nanocom readings while running was more like 1 or 2 psi, also when fault finding like this it is quick and easy to tee into the actuator line, tapping into the manifold is a bit more involved.
 
ozzyboydeano said:
please elaborate it wont clear does the engine restore power once switched off and on again ?
Click to expand...
No sorry, probably didn't explain it well. I think what my friend means is that when in mid to high rpms the lr looses power when foot to the floor however if you ease up on the accelerator the power is still low. So I think what he means is that if you release the accelerator a bit then you would expect the lr to pick up power again if over boosting but in my case it dosnt.
 
you will probly find the ecu is in limp mode once it sees a over boost does the power restore if you quickly switch off IGNITION and restart it while moving (BECARFULL OF STEARING LOCK )

or the waste gate is sticking or being told to stay open and not exhausting the signal pressure quick enough ...... ie when the diaphragm needs to return home it needs to expel the pressure

ps also check map sensor (clean sensor )the map sensor has a small hole this reads boost the plastic probe measures intake manifold ....the small pin hole can still get clogged with the old EGR debris inside the manifold
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Gear selection problem
Replies
3
Views
271
miktdish
miktdish
bahteles
Disco 2 Discovery td5 auto cutting out after 2.500 rpm [Solved]
Replies
15
Views
2K
Steven Sheppard
S
Sue1962
08 Plate Freelander 2 TD4 Sport - Gear Change issues & Lack of Power
Replies
1
Views
650
freelance
freelance
C
Disco 2 Td5 no power, changed loads and at a loss.
2 3 4
Replies
74
Views
4K
EeEk
EeEk
bahteles
Disco 2 Td5 No power after 2.5k - 3k RPM
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
sierrafery
sierrafery
Back
Top