Freelander 1 TD4 cranking but not starting (also, Southampton/Fareham)

guineafowl21 said:

If you must remove the glow plugs, soak them well in WD40 first and use a 1/4" ratchet so you can't apply too much torque. They break off for a pastime. Turn them very gradually, going forwards and backwards and reapplying WD40 regularly.

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Pete_TD4 said:

Hi guys,

Thanks for your help with the VCU-change advice last week - that's all sorted, but now I have a new problem :-(

For the last couple of months I've noticed the car taking a bit longer to start, but nothing too drastic. Then over the last few days it has ceased to start at all. Not a battery problem, it turns over strongly, but doesn't fire.

The glow-plug light on the dash lights for the normal amount of time, then goes out. The wheel-arch fuel pump is whirring away as normal.

I found mention of the "injector leak test" as described here, but couldn't see any diesel rising in the tops of the injectors. My first attempt at clamping the disconnected hose wasn't very successful, resulting in diesel flowing pretty freely out of the T-pieces - I don't know whether that's normal or significant?

I've been able to get it going a couple of times using Easy-Start (which obviously I dislike doing). Once running, it runs smoothly. There's a little white smoke/vapour in the exhaust, but that could be normal for a cold morning, I don't normally look. Certainly nothing excessive. If stopped, it will restart ok at least within the next hour.

I need the car to get to work, so after the injector test came up with nothing I decided it was time to take it to a garage. However, my local LR specialist is always booked up for weeks in advance, and the diesel place someone recommended also can't look at it for at least seven days. Hence the mention of Southampton (home) and Fareham (work) in the subject - perhaps any local LZers can recommend a place?

In the meantime, any other suggestions for things to try are welcome.

Thanks,

Pete

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Nodge68 said:

I'd be changing the pressure regulator O ring anyway. They cost almost nothing and can cure non starting and sluggish starting issues. It doesn't take much O ring damage to seriously affect fuel pressure at the injectors. If the pressure is down, full fuel atomisation can't take place. This leads to sluggish staring and lower fuel economy.

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Pete_TD4 said:

Though the appeal of getting under the car in the dark after a long day at work is not high.
Pete

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Pete_TD4 said:

Already ordered, given the price. Though the appeal of getting under the car in the dark after a long day at work is not high. And whoever designed the bumper so that it hides the mounting points for the under-tray deserves a slap...

No South Coast users with garage recommendations, then?

Pete

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guineafowl21 said:

1. You can do the O-ring without getting under the car, or removing the undertray.

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guineafowl21 said:

2. Use a hole saw to make some access holes for the front undertray mounts. Summer job for you

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Pete_TD4 said:

Ah, ok, that's good news. I don't really know where on the engine we're talking about, though I'm sure it'll become clear with the thing in front of me (and the Haynes book if necessary).

Good idea!

Pete

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