Tailgate window cables fixed, But now wont drop with handle

Hi all, wonder if you can shed some light on the situation. I've tried searching and found a fair few threads, but nothing with this exact problem. It's a five door station wagon SE 2004.

My tailgate window regulator cable snapped, so I spent 7 hours yesterday fitting a replacement ebay cable kit from okzam. After much fecking around I managed to get the cables installed correctly. There was very little guidance on the fitment and the kit promised an instructional video, which turned out to be absolutely useless.

Anyway so it's all back together now and everything works. It goes up and down on the dash switch and opens with the key fob (holding unlock) and it goes up with the key twisted in the lock. The rear wash wipe works fine.

I tried disconnecting the battery and the window went down for calibration on reconnection of the battery. I done the window fully up and it didn't beep or anything. All seems rosey however the window does not drop when I open the rear door handle.

The only thing that is different from the original OE factory installation is that the window glass had to be adjusted up on one side and doesn't sit all the way to the bottom of the glass clamp, (just on one side).

Apart from that the window even works smoother than it did before. I greased everything and put PTFE spray on the new cables.

Please help

The only thing that is different from the original OE factory installation is that the window glass had to be adjusted up on one side and doesn't sit all the way to the bottom of the glass clamp, (just on one side).

I fear this is the answer to your query.
It should be exactly the same.Something is not quite right.

Can`t you buy a regulator without the motor for these.
I have just fitted one to the wifes Skoda Fabia for £29 inc delivery.
New slides and cables etc. Unbolt from motor,refit easy.
Dismantling the door etc to get at it a right pain.

Have you seen this. Freelander Tailgate window regulator repair work - YouTube

The glass should be fitted with an equal gap at each side and should sit on the bottom of the clamps.
You may have replaced the regulator assembly without checking the preload of the glass on the rubber seal, if the glass is too tight against the seal, the motor will struggle to lower it to the clear of body position because it only receives a short power pulse to do this.
To adjust the preload, remove the tailgate door trim. You will remember removing the nuts with washers attached which hold the bottom of each guide rail to the door..the special screws to which these fit are adjusters for the preload and act like jacking screws and usually have a screwdriver slot cut into the end. Slacken the nuts off and adjust the screws until the glass is clear of the rubber seal when raised. Then turn the adjusters until the glass is touching the seal, you can check this by pressing the glass against the seal by hand and looking for any deformation of the seal rubber. Further adjustment to the screws will move the glass closer to the rubber seal and you are looking for approx. 1mm deflection-each full turn of the screws will give you approx. 1mm of movement. When the preload is correct, hold the position of the screw with a screwdriver and tighten the locknut/washers.
You should also check the regulator mechanism for excessive backlash, partially drop the window and press the top of the glass down-can you feel extra movement ?? if the backlash is excessive this free play will be taken up before the window lowers and the glass will not drop clear.
Also check that the door latch striker is not adjusted too tight which would cause the glass to bear too heavily on the seal.
Hope this helps

Thanks for the replies! I ran my cables slightly different to in that video. In the bottom right corner my cable goes into the side rather than down through the top and around the pulley. I thought that running it that way would put too much strain on the cable due to the angle.

I fear that I may have to take it all out again to do it that way. That might explain the inch that the glass had to be raised one side to level it up.

And thanks for the post on seal clearances! I never thought of this. So do you think that because the aluminium glass clamps are not at the same level the window won't drop?

When I press the button in to open the tailgate, it makes all the right noises you hear a slight noise of the glass being lowered but the glass doesn't move.

Thanks again for the replies!

if the brackets are different heights, as indicated by the glass not sitting in one, then the cables are not quite matched up in length, so the glass is probably reaching full height before the motor has completed its travel, some adjustment needed methinks. good luck.

JimbobC said:

Thanks for the replies! I ran my cables slightly different to in that video. In the bottom right corner my cable goes into the side rather than down through the top and around the pulley. I thought that running it that way would put too much strain on the cable due to the angle.

There are spring tensioners and the cables need to be under equal tension

Did you work from this video ? Osco Trading - Land Rover Freelander tailgate window - YouTube

I fear that I may have to take it all out again to do it that way. That might explain the inch that the glass had to be raised one side to level it up.

And thanks for the post on seal clearances! I never thought of this. So do you think that because the aluminium glass clamps are not at the same level the window won't drop

That could well be the cause !!

When I press the button in to open the tailgate, it makes all the right noises you hear a slight noise of the glass being lowered but the glass doesn't move.

Thanks again for the replies!

Click to expand...

Good luck

OK thanks!