Suspension compressor runs constantly

lynall said:

I dont think many foot pumps will be able to reach the pressures needed.

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Dave Marriott said:

Hi gstuart, the readings this morning are:
Driver front 460
Passenger front 48
Driver rear 500
Passenger rear 490

All the same apart from passenger rear which seems to have gone down by 5, could be my measuring error though.
The only bit I think I've not checked on the compressor is the exhaust valve as the kit I got didn't contain one. I was thinking of finding the other end of the exhaust pipe and testing to see if any air is coming out. After that it looks like a reader.

Thanks again for your help

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gstuart said:

no probs, an easy way for measuring is using some masking tape, put that on the centre caps, draw a line in the centre so u will get ur tape back in the same position

do indeed think ur next matter of course i’m afraid is getting a reader

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Dave Marriott said:

Thanks for that. Which centre caps do you mean?
.

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gstuart said:

the centre caps on ur wheels, where it says land rover

so with masking tape on there u can measure from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch more accurately each time

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gstuart said:

just for the air tank to get some air into it and then bubble test it, lol

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gstuart said:

just for the air tank to get some air into it and then bubble test it, lol

did buy some shrieder valves , pressure gauges etc , when i started to isolate sections of my suspension , used a compressor then as i then found some of the valve blocks weren’t shutting off correctly , which forced me having to replace the front and reservoir valves

gave mine a good run yesterday and on nearly getting home the orange suspension light came up for the first time, cleared with the ign on and off , but know the front struts have a slow 48 hour leak on them

think i will just buy a new set of dunlop’s and replace them , so it doesn’t cause my new compressor to overwork

been also looking at the loom plug at the back where the handbrake is, did see a sign of some wires rubbing against the chassis in the summer, to which i sleeved them all but think i may have to pull the loom out and remake all of them , time will tell, lol

even got 28 mpg on the motorway which i was well pleased,

PS, as a side note if i may plse, i know also the rear upper wishbone bush has some very slight play , wondering if that may cause the warning of the orange suspension light appearing and then clearing after the engine is turned on and off ??, know at least it’s nothing that can’t be sorted

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johnlad said:

If the light went away cycling the engine and hasnt returned I wouldnt worry about it, as random bogus faults appear and disappear due to electrical gremlins

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gstuart said:

i think ur right there, we all know what bogus lights sometimes appear , turning engine in and off and there gone

going to order a pair of front dunlop struts, as it does drop after 48 x hours and will only get worse , rather replace them now and not a few months down the road , will also stop any chance of my new compressor from over working itself

nearly finished fitting my split charge battery in as well

hope all is well with ur disco

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lynall said:

Gotcha, I was actually looking forward to the op trying to pump his tank to max pressure with said foot pump.

I would say as a general rule the vast majority of D3 susp faults are compressor related, I can understand why people mess around for ages not wanting to spend the 4/500 quid but if it needs it it needs it simple as.
Give it a few more years and there will be proper compressor rebuild kits that work AND last.

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johnlad said:

Yeah mines behaving itself recently(touch wood), mind you I only do a few miles a day taking the dogs out, but giving it a run out to the peak district this weekend, hopefully some snow

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gstuart said:

Lmao, now that i would pay money to watch

i was guilty of messing around trying to repair my old compressor before buying a new one , certainally know a lot better now

couldn’t believe how quiet the new one was , can’t hear it when inside the landy

next job in jan will be a pair of new front struts and new bolts , did read a post of someone just fitting 1 x strut and he couldn’t understand why the level was all over the place

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johnlad said:

you would need to calibrate heights again, but could fit one air strut if the other is ok

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gstuart said:

i think ur right there, we all know what bogus lights sometimes appear , turning engine in and off and there gone

going to order a pair of front dunlop struts, as it does drop after 48 x hours and will only get worse , rather replace them now and not a few months down the road , will also stop any chance of my new compressor from over working itself

nearly finished fitting my split charge battery in as well

hope all is well with ur disco

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Dave Marriott said:

It's been snowing here today didn't fancy using wife's Mini so I pulled F26 and took the D3 out. Yellow suspension yellow light came on as I'd pulled the fuse. Everytime I went over 25 the light would go red and I'd get the "Don't exceed 30mph" message. When I dropped to 20mph the light would turn yellow again. Anybody ever come across this before or know why?

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gstuart said:

as u pulled the fuse you’ve disabled the compressor , so with a possible air leak it will drop down to the bump stops

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Dave Marriott said:

Thanks for that. What I can't understand is that none of the wheel arches had dropped and it drove perfectly normally. A couple of people have said it could be a height sensor. What do you think?
Thanks again

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lynall said:

I can remember a few years ago a guy had a d2 and was losing air overnight, so he stuck some of that tyre slime into the bags and it fixed it, for how long I dont know?

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gstuart said:

ur need that code reader i’m afraid ,

main reason for pulling that fuse is to test for air leaks over night and not use the vehicle , so u can then identify any drops

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