Stub axle and seals condition

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Benny_Boy

Benny_Boy

Active Member
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101
Location
Bristol
While investigating the state of my rear brakes (drums) I noted it looked a bit wet inside and there was evidence of oil contamination on the pads. I whipped the hub off to have a look at the state of the seals and the stub axle. The seals look OK - not perished, no missing bits and still firm but flexible, but I'm far from an expert. The stubbie was a little dirty so I cleaned that up with some 2000 grit sandpaper and WD40. I've put every thing back together for now to see what happens over the next few weeks. Washed everything down in brake cleaner. If it's wet again I'll change the seals and then do the brakes.

I'd be grateful for a second opinion on the state of things. See photos below.

Dirty stub:

Cleaned stub:

Outer Bearing Retaining Ring Thingy:

Inner Seal:


Outer Seal:
https://flic.kr/p/2jmRhpA
 
What's the best method of inserting the new seal? Is it worth spending a few quid to buy a bearing race and using that in lue of the proper tool? Guessing the proper tool is expensive for a job not done very often.
 
there's a metal lip inside, so you can't drive too far with the seal. Can't remember what I used, bearing cup most likely, or a socket. Stub looks fine, but I would have replaced the seal - false economy not to, especially if you knew there was a leak
 
The seal land on the stub looks worn to me - can you feel a lip with your finger nail? if so replace the stub and the seal.

Only Corteco make seals IMO -- the rest are a waste of money - much like only Timken make wheel bearings....

The "proper tool" as made by Churchill et al, is probably very silly money, but ...... A nylon "copy" of the tool is available on the bay - it is not expensive, and worth having IMO.

Also, adjust your wheel bearings as per RAVE..... :)
 
So I'm now putting it all back together and just put on the nut which holds the drive flange in place. It's meant to be torqued 162nm and despite my torque wrench going higher than that I could not put enough force on to reach this torque. So I did what I could and finished it off with my impact wrench. Just a quick buzz. 16th of a turn at most. Turning the drive flange now I notice much less backlash in the transfer box. Is that ok or have I over torqued the nut?
 
Benny_Boy said:
So I'm now putting it all back together and just put on the nut which holds the drive flange in place. It's meant to be torqued 162nm and despite my torque wrench going higher than that I could not put enough force on to reach this torque. So I did what I could and finished it off with my impact wrench. Just a quick buzz. 16th of a turn at most. Turning the drive flange now I notice much less backlash in the transfer box. Is that ok or have I over torqued the nut?
Click to expand...
its fine, theres very few degrees between tight and cant shift it any more,as long as its tight and not reached its elastic limit which it wont be near its perfect
 
Just realised I posted my last comment on the wrong thread. I was talking about my transfer box rear drive flange. Just in case anyone gets worried/confused about the 162nm value above!
 
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