Stub axle oil seal

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Dr Strangeglove

Well-Known Member
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Lancashire
20220419_123252.jpg
Can anyone explain the difference between the stub axle oil seals. I have purchased some as I am doing an axle refurb and I have found the ones on my existing and donor axles are both different to the ones I have just purchased.

The ones I have just purchased are FTC5268.
The ones from my existing axle were FTC0951. This is a 10 spline axle.
The ones from my donor axle were IN53275. - I am assuming this was a 24 spline axle.

The problem is you never know if the ones you are taking out are the correct ones anyway!!

The axle I have just taken off did seem to have a bit of oil in the hubs - but is this because of the incorrect seal or was it just warn?

Some photos showing the differences.

20220419_123312.jpg
 
What year is your truck/axle ?
The oil in your hubs is normal for early type axles like those on my 1990 truck [ oil from the axle migrates to hub for lubrication but if rebuilding hub some grease on the bearings does the job until more oil works its way in [ A better system in my opinion, my 180,000 ml 90 is still on original bearings.] later types have just grease in hubs.
As for seals the first pic seems to show an early type leather seal [ series one/two ? ] Know the year of your axle and you should be able to order the right ones. ]
 
My truck is a 93, but I think it had later axles fitted. Typical bitsa, you have to figure things out as you go along.

The photos show the seals front and back. The top one seams to have a steel insert, the other two have a spring type insert. To be honest they all look like they will fit and seal against the half shaft.

Perhaps they all will fit - who knows (certainly not me).
 
Seal design changes over time and differs between different manufacturers. The critical thing is whether they're the right size. You want a snug fit against the relevant bit of the halfshaft, but not so tight as to be like an interference fit. Generally speaking the 'cup' (if they have one) is best positioned toward the more juicy side, in other words towards the diff. Minor changes in design are less critical. On our old Series 2 Forward Control some of the seals were original and consisted of compressed fibre in a sort of metal jacket. We replaced them with modern rubber seas and it was fine. Sometimes Land Rover changes the part number but the component remains pretty much the same. There are loads of items in the parts book that say 'NLA' and 'supersedes to' etc. thus meaning you have to use the later part. So I'd be more interested in the fit than the details of design or enumeration.
 
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The compressed fibre was likely leather like the one on OP's first pic. As you say brown it is just a case of getting correct size and not the type/style of seal. Corteco seals are good I find.
 
tottot said:
The compressed fibre was likely leather like the one on OP's first pic. As you say brown it is just a case of getting correct size and not the type/style of seal. Corteco seals are good I find.
Click to expand...
These were more like felt than leather, although of course in some leathers you can see a fibrous texture. Yup, that's why I like buying from LR Direct, because you can choose the brand for many components and avoid Britpart.
 
I spoke with Buckley Brothers today and discussed the situation with the seals. I let him know that I have replaced the axle case but have retained the diff, drive shafts etc. I have however changed the stub axles and hubs. The gear is 10 spline and it looks OK so don't want to swap it.

He looked into it and he let me know that the new seal superseded my original so all good. The new seal, FTC5268, has a steel part in the centre instead of the spring that is on FTC0951. I tried to fit the seal and it would only go in one way, so I fitted it that way. I will attach a photo. Note, the seal is a Britpart - I wanted OEM but they didn't have those in stock and I needed to crack on (which typically I realised today that I had not got the brake pads I need!). I asked if he thought the Britpart seals were any good and he said they use lots of them and don't have issues. I will still try to get OEM where I can and keep an eye on these, but we will see.
 
I usually order Corteco. The only ones that are any different are these and the ones on my swivel housings as they came as a kit.

However, I can't comment on how others compare as I have not really used them. The guy from Buckley Brothers, who has been in the land rover spares business for a long time, said people sometimes blame a seal when in actual fact it leeks because the item it is being fitted into is worn or damaged.

If anyone has first hand experience of bad seals then it would be good to know their experiences.
 
Yes grooved damage lands and its not long before oil starts showing again. On Series the land was a replaceable item. For later types it is replace the whole stub shaft or fit a wear sleeve, Speedy sleeve is one make.
 
Thanks tottot. What things would cause such damage? I presume this damage is likely to cause a seal of any quality to fail?

I am new to this spanner work and have a hell of a lot to learn.
 
Fine grit probably the culprit, small enough to find the way past the seal from dusty roads/tracks and I recon some of the worst stuff you can drive through is that thin churned up muddy gloop that coats every thing under the body. Thick lumpy mud not so bad as gets flung off. One more thing is not to over the top power washing around the back of the hub, could drive grit past the seal lip.
 
tottot said:
Fine grit probably the culprit, small enough to find the way past the seal from dusty roads/tracks and I recon some of the worst stuff you can drive through is that thin churned up muddy gloop that coats every thing under the body. Thick lumpy mud not so bad as gets flung off. One more thing is not to over the top power washing around the back of the hub, could drive grit past the seal lip.
Click to expand...
Ah - never thought of that! Dust (mud) and sand. So soft yet so abrasive!
 
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