Still wont start.

THE STORY CONTINUES..............Today fitted a new spark module and checked that the wiring to the coil was correct(it was), so full of hope I turned the key, and still the blighter wont fire up.So, sure that the problem wasnt with the coil/dizzy/module/ I checked the fuse to the fuel pump(it was ok) though on further inspection I found that there was no power to it and even after hot wirring it up it still wont start.So what can cause the power to the fuel pump to suddenly cut off?

Silly question, but have you checked the starter motor?

What does it actually do when you turn the key?

It turns over ok. What happened was, I drove it up some ramps, took the sump off to fit a new gasket, fitted new filter, rolled it back off the ramps, put the oil in, turned the key and it would not fire up.

IS there a emergency fuel cut off switch on the front off the car it kills the fuel supply if you have a head on accident.

- Immobiliser failure?
- Starter motor failure/knocked the wires when changing the sump/filter? It's all in that area.

Does it turn over but just not 'catch?' Or not turnover, just "tick?"

Not sure about range rovers but the engine in the sd1 has a low oil pressure cut out switch on the oil pump housing. Ie no oil pressure and it cuts the power to The coil. Worth a look.

I would concur with STUTHERANGE....

RR's and RRCL's are fitted with an inertia switch (under the front passenger seat or behind one the side kick panels covering the A pillars from memory) and they are to cut fuel supply by shutting down the fuel pump in the event of a collision.....I have known that a sharp emergency stop can also trigger them off....

In most cases there is a red reset button on the inertia switch to reset it and put power back to the pump.

Have you checked for a spark, and/or taken a plug out to see it smells of fuel or looks wet with fuel?

Also depending on your vehicle - if it is a Classic, the Engine ECU takes a pulse from the Coil LT wiring through a resistor to signal the engine is running and to fire the injectors at the correct time, if this resistor or the wiring to it and from it is knackered, the ECU won't think the engine is running and subsequently won't fire the injectors....

If it is a P38, as MikeV8SE says, check the immobiliser/BeCM to Engine ECU sync...as they usually go out of sync which will have the symptoms of not running the fuel pump or opening the injectors...although the starter will still turn over.

The fuel cut off switch is under the bonnet on the Classic, on the passenger side ride at the back on the bulkhead. Not sure if there are any others under the seat or behind the trim panel in the car?

under the passenger seat, re-set is on it/part of it