Steering guard help!!

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DanBerry

New Member
Posts
136
Location
Cheltenham, Gloucestershire.
Hi all,
I'm starting to put some protection on my Fender, starting with a Steering guard and sone rock sliders. The sliders aren't too complicated, a straight forward job. The steering guard on the other hand looks a bit tougher. Any hints or tips to help will be greatly appreciated!!
 
Hi all,
I'm starting to put some protection on my Fender, starting with a Steering guard and sone rock sliders. The sliders aren't too complicated, a straight forward job. The steering guard on the other hand looks a bit tougher. Any hints or tips to help will be greatly appreciated!!

Offer the guard up to your landy and it will become obvious where the bolts go, thats if you ofer it up the the front end...... around the steering area! ;)
 
I know Paddocks 3 piece one fits inside the Chassis rail so you only need to take the nut off the 'feckin big bolt' on the drivers side at the back.... thats a 15 minute job. If it goes around the outside of the chassis rail, 3 bolts are easy to fit. You have to knock the feckin big bolt through.... not easy lying on your back as you cant get a good swing at it.
 
I have a paddocks 3 piece galvanised one with bolt on towing eyes. If you have the same as me then good luck. I've been trying to fit it for 2 weeks now. It fits the outside of the chassis but I can't get the bolt out of the left hand side. Flow gas, wd40, blow torch, penetrating oil; nothing gets it out. I've sheered one already. So if anyone has any ideas I'm open to them.
 
I have a paddocks 3 piece galvanised one with bolt on towing eyes. If you have the same as me then good luck. I've been trying to fit it for 2 weeks now. It fits the outside of the chassis but I can't get the bolt out of the left hand side. Flow gas, wd40, blow torch, penetrating oil; nothing gets it out. I've sheered one already. So if anyone has any ideas I'm open to them.

My power steering bolt was seized solid when I fitted my paddocks 3 piece one last year. It took about an hour to get the bolt out. You need to rotate the bolt while lubing it to free it up. Then use a prybar/crowbar to get in behind the head of the bolt. Then once you have the bar in there hit said bar with a number one persuasion tool. If need be lube up the bolt and tap it back in and then go again.
 
My power steering bolt was seized solid when I fitted my paddocks 3 piece one last year. It took about an hour to get the bolt out. You need to rotate the bolt while lubing it to free it up. Then use a prybar/crowbar to get in behind the head of the bolt. Then once you have the bar in there hit said bar with a number one persuasion tool. If need be lube up the bolt and tap it back in and then go again.

Before I go and break out the lube, are we talking about the same bolt? :p
The one that is on the same side of the steering wheel that goes through that thick bracket and then through the chassis? (I can't remember the bane for that thick bracket thing)
 
Before I go and break out the lube, are we talking about the same bolt? :p
The one that is on the same side of the steering wheel that goes through that thick bracket and then through the chassis? (I can't remember the bane for that thick bracket thing)

the power steering pump bolt. I have a feeling I used a drift on mine too. I aint gonna go and look underneath it this time of night to double check but from stuck solid to out took about an hour.
 
My power steering bolt was seized solid when I fitted my paddocks 3 piece one last year. It took about an hour to get the bolt out. You need to rotate the bolt while lubing it to free it up. Then use a prybar/crowbar to get in behind the head of the bolt. Then once you have the bar in there hit said bar with a number one persuasion tool. If need be lube up the bolt and tap it back in and then go again.

I got the nut off and the bolt will turn with a spanner and bar. Will give this a go over a couple of days lubing up the bolt. Just one thing.... once out is anything likely to drop slightly making it difficult to get back in? Good advice Ratty
 
I got the nut off and the bolt will turn with a spanner and bar. Will give this a go over a couple of days lubing up the bolt. Just one thing.... once out is anything likely to drop slightly making it difficult to get back in? Good advice Ratty

No. It shouldn't drop due to the other bolts holding it in place. If you are worried leave the drift/bolt that you have used to tap the seized bolt out from the back in place until you put the seized bolt back in. You can use em to push each other in and out so there will always be a bolt or drift in the hole keeping the space open.;)
 
No. It shouldn't drop due to the other bolts holding it in place. If you are worried leave the drift/bolt that you have used to tap the seized bolt out from the back in place until you put the seized bolt back in. You can use em to push each other in and out so there will always be a bolt or drift in the hole keeping the space open.;)

I can do that, cheers :)
 
Hi guys,
Sorry I've not been able to get back to my thread, busy couple of days. Thanks all for your help, I've managed to get the fecker on, real bastard getting the big bolt through. Still, it looks the dogs!
 
Took my time as usual, coffee, cigs, scratch ass, plenty of lube (on the bolt) and at last got the big fooker of a bolt out:D
Done and dusted and looks pretty good.... thanks for the tips, they all helped.
 

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I drilled a new hole in the guard and used a different hole in the chassis. The other bolt just wasn't going to budge. It's still as strong as it was ever going to be, if not stronger. Looks ok to me.
 

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Gonna revive this thread..


Goodness gracious me that one bolt on the chassis is a bugger to get off..2 hours, not a mm has it shifted...desperately trying not to round the nut..already damaged the head of the bolt...thinking a trip to a garage and an airgun on it....anyone near stafford at the mo with any power tools????
 
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