Steering Drop Arm - Replacment part?

bankz5152 · Nov 29, 2013

Hey chaps,

Seen many threads about doing the Fender steering drop arm, mine needs doing too.

However no ones mentioned what brand of spare to use? Are the Britpart ones alright to use? Some of their stuff is actually good.

Anyone got some real experience using the Britpart one? Im usually the first to say buy cheap buy twice but at the moment I am rather strapped for cash however still need my car running and would prefer getting it down pre-snow/sub zero temps.

Any suggest another brand to use? As the landy ones seem to be around £80 - £100 for that money I could buy the Gywn Lewis Disco conversion.e

Turboman · Nov 29, 2013

bankz5152 said:
Hey chaps,

Seen many threads about doing the Fender steering drop arm, mine needs doing too.

However no ones mentioned what brand of spare to use? Are the Britpart ones alright to use? Some of their stuff is actually good.

Anyone got some real experience using the Britpart one? Im usually the first to say buy cheap buy twice but at the moment I am rather strapped for cash however still need my car running and would prefer getting it down pre-snow/sub zero temps.

Any suggest another brand to use? As the landy ones seem to be around £80 - £100 for that money I could buy the Gywn Lewis Disco conversion.e

You don't need a new arm, there is a kit to rebuild the ball joint. Genuine part was about 40 quid last time I got one. Never used pattern one but sure thay are available.

jamesmartin · Nov 29, 2013

stc3295 or rgb000010 either or both the same part ,can be fitted with arm in situ or with arm off ,a tool can be made or bought to remove top seat whilst arms still on box
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...HhqQ5Q_ccwTB-fx_w&sig2=9B-nI0OE5EqlzM6IVD4dxw

bankz5152 · Nov 29, 2013

Which is easier to do? Ive got a ball joint separater so i can do that but but not a big puller.

ratty · Nov 29, 2013

I usually buy the whole drop arm from paddocks and then build my old one back up with a repair kit.

trax · Nov 29, 2013

bearmach kit is about 6 quid. you can do it without removing the drop arm but it can be painful. after doing it once or twice i switched to a disco setup.

my bearmach one lasted about a year then the bottom fell out. it was an old drop arm so the lips could have worn.

pressbrake · Nov 29, 2013

jamesmartin said:
stc3295 or rgb000010 either or both the same part ,can be fitted with arm in situ or with arm off ,a tool can be made or bought to remove top seat whilst arms still on box
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...HhqQ5Q_ccwTB-fx_w&sig2=9B-nI0OE5EqlzM6IVD4dxw

I turned up a bush on the lathe to fit inside arm to sit on top seat, a disc with a hole in on the bottom and a m12 bolt.

Dont buy paddock junk, had one break

Grit Valve · Nov 29, 2013

If you buy a replacement ball joint kit you can drill tap and fit a grease nipple in the bottom disc,it will last twice as long

Brown · Nov 29, 2013

The top seat doesn't always stick out into the hole enough for anything to get a grip on, so you may need to replace the whole arm complete with ball joint. It'll only work if the hole in the top seat is quite a bit smaller than the hole in the top of the arm so as to give a lip for your bush or Paddocks tool to get some purchase on. This is the problem Buster had in Buster's Guide so he cut the whole thing off with an angle grinder.

jamesmartin · Nov 29, 2013

they rarely do but a 12mm flange headed bolt with flange ground just enough to be forced through top hole will push seat out

Grit Valve · Nov 29, 2013

Brown said:
The top seat doesn't always stick out into the hole enough for anything to get a grip on, so you may need to replace the whole arm complete with ball joint. It'll only work if the hole in the top seat is quite a bit smaller than the hole in the top of the arm so as to give a lip for your bush or Paddocks tool to get some purchase on. This is the problem Buster had in Buster's Guide so he cut the whole thing off with an angle grinder.

I don't know what's worse the seat or getting the arm off my pullers snapped and they were big.

I cheated I fitted it all without replacing the seat , there was no play and three years later with the added grease nipple still no play .
I guess it depends how worn the seat is.

Brown · Nov 29, 2013

Grit Valve said:
I don't know what's worse the seat or getting the arm off my pullers snapped and they were big.

I cheated I fitted it all without replacing the seat , there was no play and three years later with the added grease nipple still no play .
I guess it depends how worn the seat is.

It may be to do with manufacturing tolerances too - sometimes the hole in the seat is a bit big to start with. My old one which I pulled out was OK, but the new one I pressed in doesn't seem to give me a visible lip at all. So I'll have to do like you or get a whole new arm next time.

jamesmartin · Nov 29, 2013

Brown said:
It may be to do with manufacturing tolerances too - sometimes the hole in the seat is a bit big to start with. My old one which I pulled out was OK, but the new one I pressed in doesn't seem to give me a visible lip at all. So I'll have to do like you or get a whole new arm next time.

no they are all mostly like that but they do come out

bankz5152 · Nov 30, 2013

Cheers guys. I love the amount of 1st hand info I get so quickly on here.

Tbh I expect to own my Landy for at least the next 10 years likely more so may just swallow the pill and go for thw Disco set up straight off, save me pain in the future.

Just wish it this would have come layer next year when ive got some cash

none the less repairs are repairs.

Thing is why the hell didnt LR fit Fenders with the Disco set up? Clearly seems 100000x times better, no?

jamesmartin · Nov 30, 2013

bankz5152 said:
Cheers guys. I love the amount of 1st hand info I get so quickly on here.

Tbh I expect to own my Landy for at least the next 10 years likely more so may just swallow the pill and go for thw Disco set up straight off, save me pain in the future.

Just wish it this would have come layer next year when ive got some cash none the less repairs are repairs.

Thing is why the hell didnt LR fit Fenders with the Disco set up? Clearly seems 100000x times better, no?

it is a better idea

trax · Nov 30, 2013

bankz5152 said:
Cheers guys. I love the amount of 1st hand info I get so quickly on here.

Tbh I expect to own my Landy for at least the next 10 years likely more so may just swallow the pill and go for thw Disco set up straight off, save me pain in the future.

Just wish it this would have come layer next year when ive got some cash none the less repairs are repairs.

Thing is why the hell didnt LR fit Fenders with the Disco set up? Clearly seems 100000x times better, no?

good job they didnt, else we'd have nothing to do!

Brown · Nov 30, 2013

jamesmartin said:
no they are all mostly like that but they do come out

Yes, but to do that I'd need to take the drop arm off and work on it indoors anyway. Grind, chisel, drill and so on to get the seat out. So I might as well buy a new one.

Landyfox · Dec 1, 2013

jamesmartin said:
it is a better idea

+1

jamesmartin · Dec 1, 2013

Brown said:
Yes, but to do that I'd need to take the drop arm off and work on it indoors anyway. Grind, chisel, drill and so on to get the seat out. So I might as well buy a new one.

no 12mm flange bolt ground on the edge or the special tool made for the job

Brown · Dec 1, 2013

jamesmartin said:
no 12mm flange bolt ground on the edge or the special tool made for the job

That's my point - not all of them give you enough lip sticking out to catch on the special tool or improvised cut down bolt head. Either as a result of wear or because the hole in the narrow end of the seat isn't any smaller than the hole in the top of the drop arm to start with. Never mind - next time I need to change mine I'll take some pictures and show you what I mean.

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