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squirming at an awkward angle trying not to chop everything else.
Steering Drop Arm - Replacment part?
- Thread starter bankz5152
- Start date
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squirming at an awkward angle trying not to chop everything else.
bankz5152
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Thought as much... probably the most delicate thing ive ever done with my 90
Grit Valve
2000 4.6 Vouge
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bankz5152
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owl
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Easiest way to get the drop arm off is to take the steering box off and on the floor hit the arm in the middle with a lump hammer, they usually come off with 3 or 4 hits, never had one I couldn't get off with this method.
I used to use a hydraulic puller but after nearly having my fingers broke a few times I now stick to tw&tting them with a hammer.
I used to use a hydraulic puller but after nearly having my fingers broke a few times I now stick to tw&tting them with a hammer.
bankz5152
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Cheers mate if i where to replace the ball then yes, but doing the disco conversion..
Thanks though! ?
----
Instead of us lot writing 'do a search' we should have sections/stickies on the most common shizz per engine/car...
Only a drunken thought....
Thanks though! ?
----
Instead of us lot writing 'do a search' we should have sections/stickies on the most common shizz per engine/car...
Only a drunken thought....
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that sounds a bloody good idea. lets make it a seperate forum and call it something like 'Common Faults and Questions'
bankz5152
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So i finally got around to sorting this. All was going well until i got the the Drop Arm nut. It just wont budge. Tried a socket bar with a scaffold pole extension and it broke the socket bar!
Any reason why i cant use a blowtorch to heat it?
Any reason why i cant use a blowtorch to heat it?
jamesmartin
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heat will travel up the sector shaft and damage seal, try hitting each flat in turn, its middle with a large flat headed punch eventually it wil unscrew
Last edited:
bankz5152
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Ok cheers mate.
easye1
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the other year my disco started being a bit like tacking into the wind when driving along a straight road.
the steering wheel started getting really lots of play when stationary, and I kept saying -
I got to look at that..
well I did in the end
the nut had come undone, and had nearly unscrewed.
the drop arm was flapping about like a stuck fish just about on the splines
so a new complete drop arm with ball joint was ordered & fitted with a new nut & locking washer...
done that up FT with my short scaffold tube
but was an easy repair thankfully..
bankz5152
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Bloody hell! That was lucky! Ive got around 5" of play each side, bit hairy going above 45mph!
Got the nice Gywn Lewis Disco conversion so no more ball joint to worry about
Got the nice Gywn Lewis Disco conversion so no more ball joint to worry about
easye1
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bankz5152
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Finished! Im so pleased. The difference is outstanding, I would highly suggest fitting the Gywn Lewis Disco conversion. The steering is so much cleaner, tighter, lighter and more precise.
Now to well attempt to get it tracked next week...
Now to well attempt to get it tracked next week...
timtheenchanteruk
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if you didn't disturb the rear (tie??) bar your tracking will be unaffected, you might find you need to adjust the new bar to get the wheels going straight with the wheel straight though.
bankz5152
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Tracking was way out anyway, just kept putting it off. I know it will never be perfect but I can get it close. Oddly though, didnt touch the rear bar but my steering wheel has moved, all went on dead straight as per instructions.
Last edited:
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Disco conversion uses a different drag link, so the length needs adjusting.
I did mine like this.
Presuming you have the wheel dead on. That is, aligned notch in arm and steering box at the back.
Adjust drag until wheels look straight ahead.
Then drive down a straight road (no camber) with your steering wheel straight. If you aren't going straight, then jump out, loosen nuts, and turn the drag link a bit, tighten em back up and try again. Repeat until it goes straight
nrgserv
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alternatively, drive down road straight, and stick a lump of sticky tape on steering wheel at 12 oclock.
park up, centre wheel so marker is at 12 oclock, then adjust the drag link till wheel is centred and sticky stuff is off centre.
the notch in arm and box applies tho. if this is out then you'll need the drag link and track rod adjusting.
bankz5152
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Cheers, ill have a gander today
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that's a better idea
I thought the tracking should have been done with the wheels straight on, ignoring the steering wheel, so you wouldn't need the track rod adjusting, would you?
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