Steep learning curve

Hicap phill said:

You can get a spay for a mig tip.
Try not to breath in too much galv smoke. Not good for you

Click to expand...

its not bad tho - just short term cough.

dieseldog69 said:

Props, gotta find work arounds for getting decent propping for your arms, it really helps to steady the torch.

I do the dry run with the torch too Biggest prob I've had is the tip gumming up with spatter from welding the galv and residue from the rust preserver.

Click to expand...

dont you grind galv off first

jamesmartin said:

dont you grind galv off first

Click to expand...

It's only thin plate, by the time you grind the hot dip galv off it makes the panel too thin for my liking so I wouldn't bother, if I was welding 1/8th an over I might with MIG but wouldn't bother with stick as the arc munches right through it.

dieseldog69 said:

It's only thin plate, by the time you grind the hot dip galv off it makes the panel too thin for my liking so I wouldn't bother, if I was welding 1/8th an over I might with MIG but wouldn't bother with stick as the arc munches right through it.

Click to expand...

thin sheet cleans off with a flap wheel saves breathing the fumes too

I didn't fab any zintec as thought it was bad and am fabbing up few bits in that little conservatory. All froggats gear is zintec mind

Seems a bit daft to me to remove the zinc in the very places you need it most.
Breathing zinc fumes are not bad for your health, although best to be avoided as they can give you a headache.
Use a mask if you wish. If puddle welding, the amount of zinc is negligible.

Got in some good graft this weekend.

As above, I had to slit back my overplate to make flush and weld. I used a sacrificial 3mm backing plate to stop my wire poking through and ruining my weld. First weld was dogs muck. I ground back, and found my line again. I then went wide with the puddle and got a good result. I flap wheeled back enough for spring perch to sit well. Had bits of swarf, metal dust and grease stuck all over the chassis so once i completed me days welding I gave it all red.

A view of death. The rust ends near the trailing arm bracket.

I can follow my last method from here. Spot weld a backing plate in on the lhs of the picture and seam on the right. Csn then dig in with an inner fillet all the way down. Will fish plate the outside of the verticals and probably add a landy style right angle inside for strength. Need to flatten and clean up crush tubes and get those in too. I'm going to drill the holes First, bolt through then tack in place.

coming on well. i have seen a lot worse welds than that. good job .
another peep that judiciously uses the grinder

The Mad Hat Man said:

coming on well. i have seen a lot worse welds than that. good job .
another peep that judiciously uses the grinder

Click to expand...

Thank you. I don't care if it's ugly I just care that it's strong. The new clamp helps. It's proud as the inch runs are overlapping on the ends. It's good for me to flap them down to an extent as it ensures no pin holes. This bonda paint seems good doesn't it.

I feel I'm making decent progress now. I need to finish that plating off and stick s lid on the section before I can do spring seat and boot supports. The outrigger is annoying. I wonder if a fender one could fit with modification.

get a copper bus bar to put behind thin welds to reduce flare thru. (not applicable on chassis)

Did see you were using one on thin stuff. Next thin stuff is the floor. I can't wait for that weekend lol

also good when filling holes

Coming along nicely

Just found some perfect tube on eBay to use instead of that 3 arm crush tube plate. It's mucky as and I'm not putting mucky stuff back in

My fish plate plan. I have 3 welds in close proximity so think the plates will strengthen all up nicely.

resto_d1 said:

My fish plate plan. I have 3 welds in close proximity so think the plates will strengthen all up nicely. View attachment 163027

Click to expand...

What thickness of plate you using?

Ovals are always good

dieseldog69 said:

What thickness of plate you using?

Ovals are always good

Click to expand...

2mm fish plates over 2mm chassis plate. As you know the round shapes are far better than sharp edges.

The tail offs direct any stresses on the plate away from the vertical weld

The Mad Hat Man said:

Seems a bit daft to me to remove the zinc in the very places you need it most.
Breathing zinc fumes are not bad for your health, although best to be avoided as they can give you a headache.
Use a mask if you wish. If puddle welding, the amount of zinc is negligible.

Click to expand...

its going to vaporise and melt off beside the weld anyhow and your making life hard for yourself and producing a poorer weld,it doesnt take much to do the job properly