Squeal and smoke

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Oil level (engine?) is good. I didn't get to check the fluid in the gearbox yet. Bearings. What do you mean by bearings?
behind the hand brake is the out put housing it has a seal and a bearing, a worn bearing would cause a leak as out put shaft could move up/down ,side ways or could be just poor seal
 
it wont cause any issues as long as the other bolts are secure, its why they are missing which is more interesting,the stud youd need are te110061l plus m10 nuts and washers

Will I be able to screw those in without taking off the housing?
 
behind the hand brake is the out put housing it has a seal and a bearing, a worn bearing would cause a leak as out put shaft could move up/down ,side ways or could be just poor seal

Found a little leak on the bottom. But nothing like you mentioned. More on some of the housing by the bolts. It seems it's leaking off that the most.
 
Found a little leak on the bottom. But nothing like you mentioned. More on some of the housing by the bolts. It seems it's leaking off that the most.
youve got signs of oil on the rear axle and exhaust,the exhaust is thrown on from a spinning shaft rear axle just blown back, your rear seal is leaking ,as i said other parts may well be too,you may or may not have any oil left in the t/box,but i can only tell you what i see in the pics you put up
 
This one there is splash back. But from where. I see nothing to where the fluid came from.

There are oil splatters, but they can be blown back by the airflow while the vehicle is in motion. Could come from almost anywhere.

Also, not wishing to spoil your breakfast, but your chassis and other components are beginning to get surface corrosion, and need to be cleaned off and treated with paint or rustproofing chemicals at the earliest opportunity.
 
Also, not wishing to spoil your breakfast, but your chassis and other components are beginning to get surface corrosion, and need to be cleaned off and treated with paint or rustproofing chemicals at the earliest opportunity.
He's in Texas - I bet they don't have to salt the roads, so further chassis rust shouldn't be a problem.
 
The burning smell is most likely because some of the transfer box oil has got onto your hot exhaust. If I were you I would: 1. check both gearbox oil levels and top up as necessary. 2. loosen the fan and power steering belts and check that the alternator and power steering pump bearings feel smooth when turned. 3. Grease the propshaft UJs. 1 and 3 are normal maintenance for these old girls and should be done every few thousand miles. After that, it's time to sort out the seal and change the UJs if they have any side to side movement. You'll need a 9/16" spanner and a 9/16"propshaft tool (or 9/16" socket with a small head. This will let you remove the rear propshaft. The whole job is described here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/29370-replacing-an-lt230-transfer-box-rear-oil-seal/
 
He's in Texas - I bet they don't have to salt the roads, so further chassis rust shouldn't be a problem.

It may not have road salt, but it does have a lengthy maritime coastline, so there is a possibilty of salt air, or indeed, that the vehicle has met salt while launching a trailer or similar.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=m...i=1okIWZzKGYvOgAb5kamACw#imgrc=QWtI3eCGJZ7NrM:

There are also a number of salt flats in the state. So there is every chance the vehicle will be exposed to further salt. And indeed, that is what may have caused the corrosion in the first place. :)

http://texasmountaintrail.com/plan-.../salt-flats-near-guadalupe-mountains-national
 
The burning smell is most likely because some of the transfer box oil has got onto your hot exhaust. If I were you I would: 1. check both gearbox oil levels and top up as necessary. 2. loosen the fan and power steering belts and check that the alternator and power steering pump bearings feel smooth when turned. 3. Grease the propshaft UJs. 1 and 3 are normal maintenance for these old girls and should be done every few thousand miles. After that, it's time to sort out the seal and change the UJs if they have any side to side movement. You'll need a 9/16" spanner and a 9/16"propshaft tool (or 9/16" socket with a small head. This will let you remove the rear propshaft. The whole job is described here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/29370-replacing-an-lt230-transfer-box-rear-oil-seal/

What oil is reccomended for 1990 D90 200TDI gearbox?? And will checking the bearings for alternator and power steering going to mess up my timing? I'm assuming no as it's leaving my main pulley alone.
 
What oil is reccomended for 1990 D90 200TDI gearbox?? And will checking the bearings for alternator and power steering going to mess up my timing? I'm assuming no as it's leaving my main pulley alone.

EP90 gear oil. And those belts are nothing to do with the timing belt. Timing belt is inside a housing, and cannot be disturbed without unbolting things.
 
Back
Top