IOWDoubleCab
New Member
- Posts
- 6
- Location
- Isle of Wight
Hi there,
I spent this weekend replacing the 4 old halogen roof bar lights on my 2003 110 DCPU with 2x 63w LED spotlights (Amazon product) mounted to the bumper, but have fallen at the last hurdle - every time I hit the ON switch I blow a fuse.
I've reused some of the existing components to wire the new lights and each operates on its own wiring loom with independent 12v 40A relay and switch:
It's the 20amp cigarette lighter fuse (Fuse 16 in the main fuse box) which blows every time I hit ON. I've tried to operate each spotlight in isolation (with the relay power source disabled) but it still blows.
The system operated fine, and the bits replaced were the lights and the wiring running from the relay to the spots. I (foolishly) didn't take a picture of the set up for the relay before replacing the inputs but wired based on diagrams available online.
I'm assuming the blow fuse is being caused by short to ground in the circuit somewhere, but I didn't see any chaffed / exposed wiring from an inspection and would that be the case if both independent switch systems are blowing the fuse? Is the wire insufficient for the current - it has a 14amp rating and by my calculation each spotlight should only be drawing c. 5amps. Could the relay be wired wrong?
Any ideas / thoughts most welcome!
J
I spent this weekend replacing the 4 old halogen roof bar lights on my 2003 110 DCPU with 2x 63w LED spotlights (Amazon product) mounted to the bumper, but have fallen at the last hurdle - every time I hit the ON switch I blow a fuse.
I've reused some of the existing components to wire the new lights and each operates on its own wiring loom with independent 12v 40A relay and switch:
- Power is drawn from the ignition switch, with a 25amp inline fuse
- A 0.75mm2 14amp rated dual core cable connects to the spotlight when the circuit 'opens'
- The ON switchhas been soldered to the cigarette lighter power wire, with 20amp fuse in fuse box
It's the 20amp cigarette lighter fuse (Fuse 16 in the main fuse box) which blows every time I hit ON. I've tried to operate each spotlight in isolation (with the relay power source disabled) but it still blows.
The system operated fine, and the bits replaced were the lights and the wiring running from the relay to the spots. I (foolishly) didn't take a picture of the set up for the relay before replacing the inputs but wired based on diagrams available online.
I'm assuming the blow fuse is being caused by short to ground in the circuit somewhere, but I didn't see any chaffed / exposed wiring from an inspection and would that be the case if both independent switch systems are blowing the fuse? Is the wire insufficient for the current - it has a 14amp rating and by my calculation each spotlight should only be drawing c. 5amps. Could the relay be wired wrong?
Any ideas / thoughts most welcome!
J
