split charger or double battery

ta fur that - aint seen that sorta fing before.

if yu can make it down, i gorra space int cab - yu is welcome.

mad hat man

did you wire the isolator to the a/nator or just between the two batteries
wiring aint my strong point

and if its just between the two batteries that would be great what way would i wire it up

cheers shadowster

nope - hang on & i will upload the instructions. I fitted an isolator relay as per the instructions, to stop battery drain, but I also have a winch isolator wiired directly between the battery and winch power.

Here are some pics of the installation - the last three are of the isolator switch. This is on a Disco, so positioning will be different.

cheers for that mad hat man

i will give it a go

cheers shadowster

A split charge system is only £20-£30 off fleabay.

One other thing - as I abhor scotch-lok connectors - i used a piggy-back terminal on to the alternator.

mad hat man

i work in a boat chandlers and there is one lying about the place
i only want it for very light use if i wire up the two batteries that would probably be enough its only a few lights for my new roof tent
but i will study the plans
cheers shadowster

I believe the prob with wiring up two batteries in parallel is that the discharge rates will be different and the lower powered battery will load the better one and knacker it.

cheers for the help M.H.M. will go with the isolator and let you know how i got on

shadowster

The Mad Hat Man said:

I believe the prob with wiring up two batteries in parallel is that the discharge rates will be different and the lower powered battery will load the better one and knacker it.

Click to expand...

what if i put a battery switch in between the two batteries and switch off the cranking battery when im camping then switch it back on to charge when i'm on the move whoulds this work

shadowster

it wud work - but why bother re-inventing the wheel? Just use a switched split charge system. Only about £23 from fleabay with all the fuses, cable, relay etc.

The Mad Hat Man said:

it wud work - but why bother re-inventing the wheel? Just use a switched split charge system. Only about £23 from fleabay with all the fuses, cable, relay etc.

Click to expand...

aye your right i was just trying to use the stuff i've got here
isolator , battery switch with all the messing about i would be cheaper
getting it from ebay

cheers anyway shadowster

The Mad Hat Man said:

it wud work - but why bother re-inventing the wheel? Just use a switched split charge system. Only about £23 from fleabay with all the fuses, cable, relay etc.

Click to expand...

would this one do ebay number 150216769824 or would i need a bigger one more than 40 amps
cheers shadowster

there is a reason x eng use a higher rated relay

X-eng High Performance Off-Road Engineering

i wouldnt get a 30/40amp if your planning on running a 3way fridge, winch or super dupper spot lights

G

Griffdowg said:

there is a reason x eng use a higher rated relay

X-eng High Performance Off-Road Engineering

i wouldnt get a 30/40amp if your planning on running a 3way fridge, winch or super dupper spot lights

G

Click to expand...

hi giffdowg

it will only be used for small amp things lights for in the tent ,radio no heavy drain stuff like a fridge,winch.ect what do you think

shdowster

wots the max output of yo alternator - go fur one which will cope with at least that.

i got a 100amp alt

think mines is 65 amp will see if i can get one about that
will it blow up the relay if the alternator is larger than the relay
shadowster

shadowster said:

think mines is 65 amp will see if i can get one about that
will it blow up the relay if the alternator is larger than the relay
shadowster

Click to expand...

Wont blow up, but could get hot / melt if current is more than rated.

I started by upgrading my vehicle battery (In previous Rover 220) from 55AH to 110AH. (Fitted a RR battery - Varta Type). I then bought another one, fitted in the boot and used an isolater to manually control when charge was delivered. This worked for me for 5 years (now changed cars, so stripped the batteries out etc) and allowed me to leave my sidelights on all night (when parking on roads etc), jump in the car and if the main battery wouldn't turn the vehicle over I could flick the isolator connect the slave battery and start the car. The alternator 85AH then did a splendid job of keeping both batteries fully charged.

When camping I would driain the slave battery with fridge, invertor, tent lights etc and then start vehicle from main battery, engage isolator and top up the slave battery when going out for the day.

Had no issues whatsoever and no relays to melt.

I have put 1 of the 110AH batteries under the freelander's bonnet by cutting the edge of the battery tray and I may mount a spare in the boot if we go camping again.

The diagram is very helpful and is basically how I wired up my batteries, with just an isolator in place of the relay.

Hope this is useful.

Regards,

Steve

G13SJC said:

Wont blow up, but could get hot / melt if current is more than rated.

I started by upgrading my vehicle battery (In previous Rover 220) from 55AH to 110AH. (Fitted a RR battery - Varta Type). I then bought another one, fitted in the boot and used an isolater to manually control when charge was delivered. This worked for me for 5 years (now changed cars, so stripped the batteries out etc) and allowed me to leave my sidelights on all night (when parking on roads etc), jump in the car and if the main battery wouldn't turn the vehicle over I could flick the isolator connect the slave battery and start the car. The alternator 85AH then did a splendid job of keeping both batteries fully charged.

When camping I would driain the slave battery with fridge, invertor, tent lights etc and then start vehicle from main battery, engage isolator and top up the slave battery when going out for the day.

Had no issues whatsoever and no relays to melt.

I have put 1 of the 110AH batteries under the freelander's bonnet by cutting the edge of the battery tray and I may mount a spare in the boot if we go camping again.

The diagram is very helpful and is basically how I wired up my batteries, with just an isolator in place of the relay.

Hope this is useful.

Regards,

Steve

Click to expand...

i take it your talkin about the isolator with the red key for on and off
(battery isolator switch)