Snapped front prop shaft no drive

Hey guys

so i snapped my front prop shaft uj this.mornin. disco wont drive in high or low range at all. I thought the rear wheels should still turn?

BUT if i lock the diff it drives but is pretty stuttery. Is my tranfer box toast? Could a temporary fix be to run with the centre difflock on?

remove prop and run in diflock

Thanks mate. prop shaft allready off thanks to recovery man snapping the other uj towin it onto the low loader.

2pw?

philbretherton said:

Hey guys

so i snapped my front prop shaft uj this.mornin. disco wont drive in high or low range at all. I thought the rear wheels should still turn?

BUT if i lock the diff it drives but is pretty stuttery. Is my tranfer box toast? Could a temporary fix be to run with the centre difflock on?

Click to expand...

it wont the disco runs permanent four wheel drive with open diffs, i.e all the diffs are open unless you lock the diff lock. As normal, with open diffs, you only need to lose traction or lift one wheel and that wheel alone will spin and the car wont move. the difflock is only a centre difflock (CDL) - discos do not have front or rear lockers as standard unless someone has gone to the trouble to install one. The CDL locks the centre diff in the transfer case, thereby locking both front and rear axle together and supplying both with the power. If you were to drive on a hard unyeilding surface with the diff locked it would either scrub your tyres or wind up your transmision, or both. however, even with the CDL locked, the diffs on both axles are still open. if you break a halfshaft or propshaft, you're not going anywhere without the difflock on.

hope this makes it a little clearer.
JKx

with the centre diff locked and no front prop it should drive smoothly through the rear wheels.

dunno what "stuttery " means but you need to check youre cowboy recovery guy hasnt done something to the transfer box.... assumption is the front end of the front prop went first and the rear end dug in the ground or the back of the lorry during winching on....r

Yeah he was a cowboy. It was the tranfer box side tht snapped orriginally leaving a trailing shaft that could rotate but wouldnt bend at the joint unless it was forced. which it was by the underside of my truck.

if that makes sense. All in all a pretty unsuccesfull day. but at least i can get to work on monday and borrow the van till i sort a new front shaft.

thanks for the help guys.

oh and spluttery was not propperly engaged diff lock i think. had it out down the road a minute ago and it was all fine.

I've got a spare front prop that just needs a stiff UJ replacing if it's any good to you?
£20 posted, assuming you're in the UK or £12 collected from Tamworth, staffs.

yer new prop wants ujs with grease nipples and grease them occasionally.....ujs that dont move easy are bound to fail sooner or later.

Hey mark l

sorry mate saw ur post just after i bought one on ebay.

found another problem though! Checking out the underside looks.like the.gearbox drain plug is gone! Not sure for how long its been gone for but now obviously no oil in the box and no.plug!
Anyone know where i can get another or what thread it is?

philbretherton said:

found another problem though! Checking out the underside looks.like the.gearbox drain plug is gone! Not sure for how long its been gone for but now obviously no oil in the box and no.plug!
Anyone know where i can get another or what thread it is?

Click to expand...

You sure it's not a missing wading plug?

plug is frc6145 and washer ftc4112 are you sure thats the plug missing

Tell me about it. I did mine low box diff lock got me home on sat so now looking for a new front prop

drewster said:

Tell me about it. I did mine low box diff lock got me home on sat so now looking for a new front prop

Click to expand...

Why didnt you use hi-dl?

abcdedd said:

Why didnt you use hi-dl?

Click to expand...

good question...
I`m waiting fer answer too.

LZ is like a worldwide tech school eh

I didnt use hi-dl because the shaft left hangin would of mashed into the chassis as the front wheels spin.

Just read the post about wading plug/drain plug difference. Ill have a look and see there is a little oil stain around it. Just assumed the gears were dry because the clunk when letting the clutch out.

This is a pretty entertaining read so far.

philbretherton said:

I didnt use hi-dl because the shaft left hangin would of mashed into the chassis as the front wheels spin.

Just read the post about wading plug/drain plug difference. Ill have a look and see there is a little oil stain around it. Just assumed the gears were dry because the clunk when letting the clutch out.

Click to expand...

I was talkin to drew

Mr Noisy said:

This is a pretty entertaining read so far.

Click to expand...

Sure is!

Hey folks, i have the very same issue at the moment, front prop UJ is in a pretty poor condition at the moment though it si the original and has 168934 miles on it so all in all not too bad i suppose, any way i was also wondering what if any adverse effect would it have if i were to lock the CDL, remove the offending prop and drive with only the rear prop in place??
As always in advance thank you to all responses!